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Cub bottom end


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ok as of now here are the mods that will be on my bike.. the cub cylinders will be here in about a week (woot)

 

t-5 pipes

vf-3's

k&n pods

35mmpwk keinen carbs

fmf boost bottle (yeaaa for powa!) lol

+4 timing

fast clutch

direct drive lockup

 

along with a +4 swinger

 

the cub is comin with a cool head..

 

so my question is since a cub is meant for draggin.. hpw will the powerband be on the bottom end? will it be the same or will it go down so like something near stock? im hoping it doesnt. Itll still be good right?

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True dat................

 

Cubs are not bottom end motors, and they hit like a light switch..................

mine has good bottom end ,it will have more than stock for sure , i ride mostly woods and powerlines , i only drag when someone talks shit ,dont let anyone tell you you cant ride it like a normal banshee , i ride the hell out of mine 100 mile trecks in WV aftenoon trail rides or whatever , i dont know what everyones talking about no bottom end on cubs grabs some clutch blip the throtle and hold the f&*k on

your gona like it

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i dont know what everyones talking about no bottom end on cubs grabs some clutch blip the throtle and hold the f&*k on

your gona like it

 

you just proved everyones point about them having no bottom end. if cubs had good bottom end there would be no reason to grab the clutch and blip the throttle..

 

with that being said, my brother had a good woods port by eric gorr a few years ago. you could be in damn near any gear and blip the throttle, with no clutch and it would go.. it had power like a 4 stroke on the bottom. cubs do not have that kind of power down low. when we dynoed that bike, the power came on right around 4000rpm.. you cant really compare cubs to that.

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mine has good bottom end ,it will have more than stock for sure , i ride mostly woods and powerlines , i only drag when someone talks shit ,dont let anyone tell you you cant ride it like a normal banshee , i ride the hell out of mine 100 mile trecks in WV aftenoon trail rides or whatever , i dont know what everyones talking about no bottom end on cubs grabs some clutch blip the throtle and hold the f&*k on

your gona like it

ur fukin crayz... if they had such good bottom end you wouldnt need to blip the gas.. you could just dump it and stick with any 4 stroke out there but thats not the case... you DONT have a bottom end... like loco said once you hit 5k or so dependng on the pipes u run you will hit your powerband and the light switch effect will kick in and its all power from there...

Edited by Bansh-eman
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Chris...and Loco will back me on this one. Spend the extra cabbage and get a dunable override.

ESPECIALLY since you're already getting a lockup. A lockup on that motor is a waste without the override to compliment it.

 

I had a 4 mil cub on gas, and it flat out ripped. It shifted like absolute ass....and I didn't even have a lockup, I just used Jeff's clutch and 6 HD springs...

 

Also...T5 pipes on a cub is sort of defeating the purpose of that motor. And I'm talking from experience...not out of my arse. When I first built my 4 mil, I had stock carbs and T5 pipes. You're really limiting the motor....and...my intention was using those pipes/carbs to try and tame the motor for trails. Not tight trails, but...wide open fireroad trails.

 

IT DID NOT WORK.

 

It still had a lightswitch powerband....period.

 

I know it's easy for us to sit here and tell you how to spend your money...but, I've been down that road, trust me...you'll be happier with a properly breathing cub motor. Get the override first....then pipes when you have the money. CPI or Shearer are a very fine choice.

 

CPI if you dune more, Shearer if you drag more.

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yep. a duneable override is needed to get those things to shift fast, esp with a lockup. stock tranny just wont get it done. i agree about the pipes. if you wanted to run t5's why not save a bunch of money and get your stock cyls ported? get the right carbs and pipes and youll gain everywhere...

 

with all due respect....cubs are NOT trail friendly...yes its ok cuz i said with all due respect..its in the geneva convention. :biggrin:

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ok so itll have a little bit more then stock power and i should ditcht the t-5's? i do pretty much fireroad trails so its not like i need a WHOLE lot of speed. but i like my speed. =) so i think imma go with cpi cause i hear good things about that.

 

edit- where do i get cpi pipes.. and i dont want drag pipes i want something that looks similar to t-5's or t-6's or like fattys.

 

edit- 2- someone said something about i should get better carbs. what shold i get if the 35 pwk's arnt good enough?

Edited by chris1992
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edit- where do i get cpi pipes.. and i dont want drag pipes i want something that looks similar to t-5's or t-6's or like fattys.

 

Do your self a favor and get your stock cylinders ported, and run the T5's that will be plenty of power.

 

If your itching to spend some mony get a 4 mill long rod stroker crank and have the stock cylinders ported for the crank. Get a port job that matches your style of riding. 4mill stroker on the stock bore would be a 373cc. Ported stock cylinders and a 4 mill crank are a hard combination to beat.

 

You say you dont want Drag Pipes. You do realize that CPI pipes are drag pipes right? If I was going to get a set of drag pipes I would get Shearers.

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Do your self a favor and get your stock cylinders ported, and run the T5's that will be plenty of power.

 

If your itching to spend some mony get a 4 mill long rod stroker crank and have the stock cylinders ported for the crank. Get a port job that matches your style of riding. 4mill stroker on the stock bore would be a 373cc. Ported stock cylinders and a 4 mill crank are a hard combination to beat.

 

You say you dont want Drag Pipes. You do realize that CPI pipes are drag pipes right? If I was going to get a set of drag pipes I would get Shearers.

 

CPIs are drag pipeish....they do have a little more middle than Shearers, not much though.

 

I agree with you....but, he said his cub is on the way. ON a dyno this motor will have more power than a stock motor down low and in the middle. However, by the seat of your arse it won't feel like it because the "real" power gets dropped on you like a ton of bricks....

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why are you wanting a cub cylinder?? just to say you have one?? you do know that a properly set up set of ported stock cylinders will give a cub cylinder a run for its money in the woods right?? I used to try and trail ride my 4 mill when it was on gas, but by the time I got on the pipe I was looking out into the woods and almost blowing the corners. I started with a short swinger and I could not steer the damn thing. So in order to keep the front end on the ground I went longer on the swinger. Then it was hitting trees because it was to damn long. I have been riding since I was 3 years old so that was not the problem. I think unless you are drag racing all the time a cub cylinder is a waist of money. Also if you are gonna build a drag motor go the whole way, lock up, override, shearers, or cpis, 35-39mm pwks, longer swinger +8-10 at least. A buddy of mine had jeff from FAST Aggressive dune port his stock cylinders and that bike flat rips, and the power comes in low and hard. I would estimate that it is a 80-85 hp bike. I will let ya know for sure after we dyno it this spring. Thats enough power to hold its own to just about anything other than a full drag bike , and you can trail ride the shit out of it! But do what ya want its your money.

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welp too late lol ill be fine im sure.

 

also to the one guy, i dont ride in woods.. i live in the dessert.. wide open space galore.

 

that sounjds nice that agressive port. would a 20cc cool head work? if u guys really think imma have alot of trouble then if i try it and dont like it ill sell it and do that cause that sounds good too. u guys are really makin me nervous here:/ and was all he have on it just the normal bolt ons and that port or did he have something else with it

Edited by chris1992
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