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Let's Talk About Swingarm Length


FireHead

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Until I learn the right way, I chose a 6". I added tire untill I could launch WFO in 2nd sitting on the front of the seat with no wheelie. If i slide back just a littlle it comes up. This way I know I have as much tire as possible for traction at the top of the hill. I first adjust my gear ratio for max speed in 4th. Since you are dealing with almost 3 times the power you will be able to leave the hole with a taller gear and it can get out of control in a hurry. I would start long and work your way down. For the hill that is. I would love to have the funds to do what you are doing. Good luck.

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I would love to have the funds to do what you are doing. Good luck.

The thing of it is, that this project probably won't cost me more than $4-5k and that will be spread across atleast a year. I have almost all the material and tooling for the engine and fixtures already purchased and including the frame I purchased, I am only around $2500 out of pocket at the moment. The only real unkown thing I have at the moment with regard to cost is the pipes.

 

Having access to CNC machines for free helps, as does the free use of the engine assembly and dynamometer facilities in the building next to mine.

 

Of course this project has the potential to get really expensive, really fast, if I lose the engine on the dyno and the case halves, cylinder block, and/or crankshaft are damaged beyond reasonable repair. I have extra material for the crankshaft, but I couldn't bring myself to buy extra aluminum billets for the case halves and cylinder block due to high prices of aluminum right now. However, if the defense industry gets molested as a result of a policy change after the next presidential election, then the price of aluminum well get back to a more sane level and I won't have to worry about scrapping any of the larger aluminum parts. :geek:

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Hmmm free dyno. Must be nice. What are the odds on me bringing my bike for a reduced rate dyno pull or tune. :biggrin:

Just start rich and work your way down. Easy quick pulls with an eye on the a/f and you will be fine if the motor is assembled right.

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Hmmm free dyno. Must be nice. What are the odds on me bringing my bike for a reduced rate dyno pull or tune. :biggrin:

Just start rich and work your way down. Easy quick pulls with an eye on the a/f and you will be fine if the motor is assembled right.

At my new place of work we have 5 engine dynamometers and one chassis dynamometer. I don't think an ATV will be able to turn the rolls or the absorber as the dyno is made for Class 8 trucks (really the absorber probably isn't sensitive enough for a low torque engine. the rolls are 48" in diameter and made out of pretty this steel, so I am not exactly sure what they weigh, but I doubt you could accelerate them with less than a one hundred ft/lbs of torque). The engine dyno's are a different story, they are made for large diesel engines, but they made by the same people who made the dyno's at my current work place and I am pretty sure I can configure one of the dyno cells at my new work place to accomodate my needs. With those types of dyno's all of parameters of operation are just software adjustments. I have all my Banshee dyno control programs saved on my personal laptop so I am hoping all I will have to do is get it on the network at my new place and set myself up a new user profile at one of the dyno cell control stations. I will have to make an engine mounting system and a propshaft adapter when I get there, but that should be about it before I am ready to be up and running. I am actually a little excited as the dyno cells and my new work have much better instrumentation and monitoring equipment.

 

I will actually be responsible for most of the facility at my new work and not just the work that goes on there like the case was at my old work. After some house keeping, organization, clean up, etc. when I first get there, I should be able to run an extra engine or two on a dyno on the weekends if properly motivated (read: buy beer). :beer:

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