MILO Posted March 28, 2007 Report Share Posted March 28, 2007 i'm hoping it's just because it sits for a few weeks or more at a time over the winter. when i first start it, the clutch doesn't work until i run it for a little. i'll poke around in 1st or 2nd for a few minutes, then the clutch works fine again. but what would cause it to do that? i've never had that problem before if it set for a while. my tusk clutch kit is about 2 yrs old, with a new hinson basket and new stock inner hub, p-plate, rod, ball, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustbag Posted March 29, 2007 Report Share Posted March 29, 2007 Sounds like the clutch plates are sticking. This happens from not being riden much. I had a old 2stroke dirtbike that would do the same thing. Hold the clutch in the whole time ur riding it till the disks break lose. If the problem persists, I'd take the disks out for inspection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screaming Yellow Zonker Posted March 30, 2007 Report Share Posted March 30, 2007 Yep it sounds like the clutch discs are dry or sticking. Have you changed brands of oil since you have notices the problem? Another thing make sure you have enough oil in the trans case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted March 30, 2007 Report Share Posted March 30, 2007 Perfictly normal. The clutch plates are just haning up a little do to the fact that they are dry. You should really let it warm up before riding it. That way the oil gets up to operating temp and worked in to places it needs to be. The pistons warm up and expand to the deminsions that they are supose to be. Nothing says engine carnage like 10,000 rpm with a cold engine. With my raptor 660 if I start it up in gear with the clutch pulled in it will creep forward until the oil gets flowing. josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastrthnu Posted March 30, 2007 Report Share Posted March 30, 2007 Yea,. me too. When I start it and pull the clutch and knock it into gear, it jumps a little,. then when I hit it down the street it revs but doesnt go so fast. But once its warmed up,. it goes and doesnt jump on start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted March 30, 2007 Report Share Posted March 30, 2007 Well mine doesnt slip it just dont release all the way until it is warmed up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted March 30, 2007 Report Share Posted March 30, 2007 Sounds to me like all of you need to either ride more or adjust your clutch. ROFL If its adjusted properly it shouldn't ever do what you guys are describing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastrthnu Posted March 30, 2007 Report Share Posted March 30, 2007 Sounds to me like all of you need to either ride more or adjust your clutch. ROFL If its adjusted properly it shouldn't ever do what you guys are describing. BOTH!! Im going to try to adjust it,. can it be done by just removing the round clutch cover w/0 draining all the fluid,. or do I have to take apart a bunch of crap again and remove the whole cover? Id like to ride more ofter too :ermm: Stupid bald tires on the jeep!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted March 30, 2007 Report Share Posted March 30, 2007 BOTH!! Im going to try to adjust it,. can it be done by just removing the round clutch cover w/0 draining all the fluid,. or do I have to take apart a bunch of crap again and remove the whole cover? Id like to ride more ofter too :ermm: Stupid bald tires on the jeep!!! Viscosity and type of oil are one thing to look at. The one sure thing I would suspect is the clutch basket. Grooves worn into the basket will cause both engagement and disengagement issues and will cause burned clutches as well as crappy shifting bikes. If you ride at least once per month, I would pop the cover and inspect the basket fingers for grooves and flip the plates into a new configuration. Worn plates will have smooth surfaces that suck to each other. It is NOT normal. Something is going on. Check the basket and mic all the plates and you will find your problem. Bluing of drive plates is a sign of overheat and they will lose their temper or tensile strength . They will also warp and cause clutch drag. Check them for warp by putting them on a suface table or piece of glass for inspection. Brandon Mull Engineering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastrthnu Posted March 30, 2007 Report Share Posted March 30, 2007 Viscosity and type of oil are one thing to look at. The one sure thing I would suspect is the clutch basket. Grooves worn into the basket will cause both engagement and disengagement issues and will cause burned clutches as well as crappy shifting bikes. If you ride at least once per month, I would pop the cover and inspect the basket fingers for grooves and flip the plates into a new configuration. Worn plates will have smooth surfaces that suck to each other. It is NOT normal. Something is going on. Check the basket and mic all the plates and you will find your problem. Bluing of drive plates is a sign of overheat and they will lose their temper or tensile strength . They will also warp and cause clutch drag. Check them for warp by putting them on a suface table or piece of glass for inspection. Brandon Mull Engineering yea but do we have to take off the whole cover and peg and brake pedal master cylinder buy a new gasket n oil to check,. or can the round cover with the 3 screws just come off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted March 30, 2007 Report Share Posted March 30, 2007 yea but do we have to take off the whole cover and peg and brake pedal master cylinder buy a new gasket n oil to check,. or can the round cover with the 3 screws just come off? The round cover with three screws is a heat shield for your foot. You will not get anywhere. The entire cover must come off. Sorry. Brandon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueMalibu Posted March 31, 2007 Report Share Posted March 31, 2007 My '87 Bansh with stock clutch was doing this bad last year. It had started the year before and slowly got worse. It was harder and hard to get it to release. Checked the adjustment - it was right on. What is happening is that the plates are sticking together even when you pull the lever. I pulled the cover after draining the oil and completely dissassembled the clutch. I used a micrometer to measure the the discs and plates and they were all within spec so I just reassambled it. Cleaning the discs and lightly sanding the plates completely cured the problem. I have owned my '87 since new and it goes through periods of non-use which seemed to have allowed the plates to dry out and corrode at times. ): The round cover with three screws is a heat shield for your foot. You will not get anywhere. The entire cover must come off. Sorry. Brandon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MILO Posted April 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2007 i'm sure my clutch is adjusted up properly, and the tranny oil was full. but it has only been run a handfull of times since last october, so that may well be the problem if that's normal under those conditions. shee just needs ridden more often to keep the plates lubed up. once archery season comes in late september/early october, the shee pretty much sits till hunting season is over, mid december. then between the snow, working 60-74 hrs a week, and trying to have family time, shee doesn't see much action. but now that spring is here, it's banshee season again, so maybe i'll be able to run her more often. if the problem persists, i'll tear into it and inspect everything like you guys mentioned. thanks for the advice guys. :beer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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