FireHead Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 I just bought a Fastener guy kit. I'll post up what I think of it when I get it and start using it. :geek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted April 12, 2007 Report Share Posted April 12, 2007 I returned the PM. Are you having Mike's guy do the vinyl? Is he doing the design as well? How much is that going to cost? I think I am going to go that direction with my triple bodywork and I probably need to get that ball rolling. :beer: yes mikes having the designs workedup right now... we havent got a price yet casue everything hasbt been figured out yet. give him a shout with some ideas and see what he says Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted April 12, 2007 Report Share Posted April 12, 2007 While I'll agree that the fasterner guy bolts aren't as polished as the pics for the alloyboltz, they are considerably cheaper. So...pick your poison...I guess... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted April 12, 2007 Report Share Posted April 12, 2007 While I'll agree that the fasterner guy bolts aren't as polished as the pics for the alloyboltz, they are considerably cheaper. So...pick your poison...I guess... I picked Fastenerguy as I can liver with the fasteners being not as shiney, but I can't live bith breaking fasteners as it seems that is what mostpeople claim happens with the newer Alloyboltx kits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted April 12, 2007 Report Share Posted April 12, 2007 Mark, My buddy has used both kits for years, on a LOT of bikes. The biggest mistake people make is not using the anti/seize thread sealer. I called Alloyboltz, the lady was a biyatch...and said pay now, within three days we'll get them to the polisher and send them out. I wanted to banshee kits and 1 YFZ kit. They were 160 or so each plus shipping....they didn't cut me a break or anything. I called Fastnerguy....Nice as could be. Said he'd ship for free, (and all these bolts are pretty heavy, mind you) had the bolts ready to go. Paypal'd me an invoice, had the three kits at my door 4 days later. I've got enough PC, Chrome and polished billet on my new bike to where the bolts won't draw any attention, other than the fact they're all allen head, which...looks killer IMO. I think it was 270 or so for all three kits shippped. A little more than half the price of the alloy kits.... Easy decision for me.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted April 12, 2007 Report Share Posted April 12, 2007 Mark, My buddy has used both kits for years, on a LOT of bikes. The biggest mistake people make is not using the anti/seize thread sealer. I called Alloyboltz, the lady was a biyatch...and said pay now, within three days we'll get them to the polisher and send them out. I wanted to banshee kits and 1 YFZ kit. They were 160 or so each plus shipping....they didn't cut me a break or anything. I called Fastnerguy....Nice as could be. Said he'd ship for free, (and all these bolts are pretty heavy, mind you) had the bolts ready to go. Paypal'd me an invoice, had the three kits at my door 4 days later. I've got enough PC, Chrome and polished billet on my new bike to where the bolts won't draw any attention, other than the fact they're all allen head, which...looks killer IMO. I think it was 270 or so for all three kits shippped. A little more than half the price of the alloy kits.... Easy decision for me.... My real concern is that I seem to have heard many stories about the quality of the Alloyboltz kits after the old owners death. I am still not sold on the idea that thread sealer/antisieze should be necessary on the fastners for them to work properly. I am actually mildy bothered by the antiseize thing with regard to these these kits. There is absolutely no premise or principle for that to be necessary on the new bolts when it is nmot necessary on the OEM fasteners. :ermm: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted April 12, 2007 Report Share Posted April 12, 2007 Stainless bolts, if they have a tic or tit on them, will gall without antiseize.... I don't think you're going to get the absolute tightest manufacturing tolerances and Q&A for less than a hundo for a bolt kit. I think you'll be more than happy with the kit, Mark...as long as you're not looking for mirror polished bolts, which...you aren't!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
majicmike Posted April 12, 2007 Report Share Posted April 12, 2007 IMO these kits are fine for alot of the fastners on the bike but I would not use them were my neck was on the line. I would take the time and go to the hardwear store and get a qualty grade 8 bolt or pay yamahas prices. call it over kill but when my bike comes out of the hole and stands up 2-3 feet off the ground at 20-30mph I dont want to wounder about 1) my swingarm bolts holding weight/power 2) the bolts on my shocks/A-arms holding up to a shock load if I have to set the front end down in a hurry. Also I dont like them for the engine cases. Stainless steel is a soft metal and will stretch I dont care how much anti-anything you use. These bolts (stainless steel) are not used to hold the head/main caps of car on. Also ARP is a well trusted name in the high performance bolt ind. you would never see a stainless steel head/main bolt from them. If you are to think about it the case bolts on the banshee are the crank shaft main bolts on a car........I would challage any one to put a stainless steel bolt in the mains of a 500hp v-8 watch what happens. Why would the banshee making 45-60hp per cylinder be any different. Botom line is these are my thoughts and the bolt may hold 15-20hp per cylinder but if I tripple the power out put on my motors I am useing a quality bolt to protect my investment. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted April 12, 2007 Report Share Posted April 12, 2007 IMO these kits are fine for alot of the fastners on the bike but I would not use them were my neck was on the line. I would take the time and go to the hardwear store and get a qualty grade 8 bolt or pay yamahas prices. call it over kill but when my bike comes out of the hole and stands up 2-3 feet off the ground at 20-30mph I dont want to wounder about 1) my swingarm bolts holding weight/power 2) the bolts on my shocks/A-arms holding up to a shock load if I have to set the front end down in a hurry. Also I dont like them for the engine cases. Stainless steel is a soft metal and will stretch I dont care how much anti-anything you use. These bolts (stainless steel) are not used to hold the head/main caps of car on. Also ARP is a well trusted name in the high performance bolt ind. you would never see a stainless steel head/main bolt from them. If you are to think about it the case bolts on the banshee are the crank shaft main bolts on a car........I would challage any one to put a stainless steel bolt in the mains of a 500hp v-8 watch what happens. Why would the banshee making 45-60hp per cylinder be any different. Botom line is these are my thoughts and the bolt may hold 15-20hp per cylinder but if I tripple the power out put on my motors I am useing a quality bolt to protect my investment. :thumbsup: I know we've discussed this before, Mike...and to each is own for sure. I can only tell you Ev has used these bolts on 4 mil, 7 and 10 mil cubs, cases and all, often pushing 100 to 130 HP...and no issues.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theshee Posted April 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2007 I know we've discussed this before, Mike...and to each is own for sure.I can only tell you Ev has used these bolts on 4 mil, 7 and 10 mil cubs, cases and all, often pushing 100 to 130 HP...and no issues.... Im with mike on this one... we used them one time on a case, and fucked it up. Didnt torque, made an air leak and ended up splitting the cases again to fix it. I will ust these bolt kits on my cosmetics and little things, but no engine work again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted April 13, 2007 Report Share Posted April 13, 2007 IMO these kits are fine for alot of the fastners on the bike but I would not use them were my neck was on the line. I would take the time and go to the hardwear store and get a qualty grade 8 bolt or pay yamahas prices. call it over kill but when my bike comes out of the hole and stands up 2-3 feet off the ground at 20-30mph I dont want to wounder about 1) my swingarm bolts holding weight/power 2) the bolts on my shocks/A-arms holding up to a shock load if I have to set the front end down in a hurry. Also I dont like them for the engine cases. Stainless steel is a soft metal and will stretch I dont care how much anti-anything you use. These bolts (stainless steel) are not used to hold the head/main caps of car on. Also ARP is a well trusted name in the high performance bolt ind. you would never see a stainless steel head/main bolt from them. If you are to think about it the case bolts on the banshee are the crank shaft main bolts on a car........I would challage any one to put a stainless steel bolt in the mains of a 500hp v-8 watch what happens. Why would the banshee making 45-60hp per cylinder be any different. I am going to agree with you to a certain extent and then I am going to also poke at you a bit. If it's an important fastener then I agree that eBay bolt kits aren't the way to go. I am not really plaaning on using these bolts for anything other than frame stuff and engine covers and such. Good, graded fasteners are not cheap no matter what you do. Most of the fasteners for my triple engine, I bought from somewhere else. I bought the fastener guy kit to save myself a trip to the hardware store for things like bolts for the upper steering stem, rear master cylinder, foot pegs, etc. I am going to either buy one of the specialty aluminum swingarms bolts (after I find someone that uses them to ask about them) or I am going to zip one out of Ti at work if I can rig up the shitty CNC lathe I have at the moment to run enough coolant pressure for an 8mm gun drill. Once I get the Fastenerguy bolts in the mail, I will post up what I think about them. The comments about stainless steel being a soft metal that stretches is a horribly broad generalization. If the a stainless bolt has any sort of legitimate grading on it, it is probably not soft and won't stretch under reasonable torque. Furthermore ARP has an entire line of main cap bolts and rod bolts made from PH stainless, so I don't know where you got that info from. They are probably the third best way to go with that type of fastener in that application with 300M and the ARP mystery material being the two better. Once upon a time, all of the Phase 9 truck engines at my old work were running the stainless fasteners from ARP mentioned above, with the less than no problems. In fact, they stayed in place even when some shitty rods we got ahold of were plastically deforming. I am relatively certain I have video of these fasteners on an engine on a dyno that made about 1000hp unrestricted (not one of ojcool's "wonder dyno's" either). :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
majicmike Posted April 13, 2007 Report Share Posted April 13, 2007 It was a rather generalized statement and you are correct ARP does have a high standered stainless. But if you go to their site they tweek it a bit with titanum to. But anyway my rant was mainly about the low grade stainless in these kits they are not arp quality other wise the kit would reach $250 easy. I knew you would pic up on that to I should have said the grades found in these low cost kits http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechMetals.html If you go to the Quick Reference Guide and someone can prove these kits are stainless 300 then I will apologize but like I said the kit would be alot more $. Also ARP does not use stainless for main/studs or main bolts also fond in the quick reference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted April 13, 2007 Report Share Posted April 13, 2007 It was a rather generalized statement and you are correct ARP does have a high standered stainless. But if you go to their site they tweek it a bit with titanum to. But anyway my rant was mainly about the low grade stainless in these kits they are not arp quality other wise the kit would reach $250 easy. I knew you would pic up on that to I should have said the grades found in these low cost kits http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechMetals.html If you go to the Quick Reference Guide and someone can prove these kits are stainless 300 then I will apologize but like I said the kit would be alot more $ That's actually a great link that I think most people should read if they have ever bought fasteners. I will see what I think the Fastnerguy's bolts are made of. I suppose I could send one out to the metrology lab at work and see if they could figure it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
majicmike Posted April 13, 2007 Report Share Posted April 13, 2007 I am going to either buy one of the specialty aluminum swingarms bolts (after I find someone that uses them to ask about them) or I am going to zip one out of Ti at work if I can rig up the shitty CNC lathe I have at the moment to run enough coolant pressure for an 8mm gun drill. Once I get the Fastenerguy bolts in the mail, I will post up what I think about them. :ninja: I use/make/dont sell them........... It is one of my little weight saving secrets never had a failure knock on wood. I know of one major builder that has them for sale but sometimes wont admit to it and his name is KIM if you know who I am talking about then were good I just want to keep it under wraps a little bit so a mx guy dont put one in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted April 14, 2007 Report Share Posted April 14, 2007 :ninja: I use/make/dont sell them........... It is one of my little weight saving secrets never had a failure knock on wood. I know of one major builder that has them for sale but sometimes wont admit to it and his name is KIM if you know who I am talking about then were good I just want to keep it under wraps a little bit so a mx guy dont put one in. I have spoke to Kim before. In fact he had alot to do with my new frame for my triple along with HS Customs. If I don't make the swingarm bolt myself (I can't easily EDM sink or broach a torx drive negative in the head), and it seems that I may have to wait for my new lathe to get off the boat from Germany as my current lathe is going to gundrill a damn thing, then I will most likely grab an aluminum one. Simple strength calculations seem to indicate that a standard 6061 or 7075 T4 or T6 bolt won't hold up to fatigue. I am interested what a couple of the folks are using in the way of Al to get a 1000ksi tensile strength bolt. Any ideas? I'd even buy one from you if it were reasonably priced and you had some material data for it. :geek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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