Jump to content

Replacing axle bearings


Recommended Posts

I know I said I was going to do this the other day but I started it today with the help of my brother. Man this is not a fun thing to do. It was hard as hell to get the axle nuts off. The rear sprocket to my surprise slid of with no force just kinda moved it back and forth and walked it off. But then came the not so fun part, removing the axle. I swear I was beasting on this thing to the best of my ability and it still wont come out of the carrier. I took a 4x4 put it up against the axle and beat on this thing with a huge ass monkey wrench. It is almost out all the groves from the rear sproket are inside the carrier so it doesnt have much more to go. I decided when my neighbor gets home im going to go over there and borrow his sludge hammer. Im going to take my 4x4 and put it up against the axle and give it a few nice hits. I hope that works because hitting it with the monkey wrench doesnt seem to want to budge it anymore. I literally (sp) spent all day constantly beating on this thing trying to get it to come out. How much farther does the axle have to go once all the rear sproket grove things are inside the carrier?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is my first bike. I doubt that the axle is bent because when I would spin the wheels there was no warp or anything like that in the axle. I have never greased the axle. I just bought this bike as a roller not in the best condition and just put a freshly rebuilt motor in it. The axle has alot of rust and shit like that on it thats why im guessing it is having a hard time coming out. I have read on here alot of people have a hard time getting the axles out of the carriers some people cant get them out and junk them.

 

My question was how much farther does it have to go from when the rear hub grove things are inside the carrier???

 

By the way yes it is coming out the right direction. Removed axle nuts... removed left hub... removed axle nuts from axle... removed rear sproket... removed the rear brake caliper... Hitting the left side of axle so it comes out the right side of the carrier.

Edited by 96_banshee_96
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yea your going the right way...where the sproket hub sitis thats where the taper should get smaller... once you get to that point it should come lose... get some pb blaster and soak it and let it sit for a little bit then hit it...

 

on the left side where the axle has gone through you should be able to see down in the carrier riht? if so shoot some pb in there and stand it up... assuming you have it out of the bike ... and that should help get it between the metal some...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got the axle out of the carrier but the sleve is stuck to the axle. One of the bearings poped out when I was hitting it and the axle came out of the carrier. The sleve is stuck to the axle now. Does the sleve slide off of is it threaded? Any idea on how to get this bish off the axle now???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got the axle out of the carrier but the sleve is stuck to the axle. One of the bearings poped out when I was hitting it and the axle came out of the carrier. The sleve is stuck to the axle now. Does the sleve slide off of is it threaded? Any idea on how to get this bish off the axle now???

The sleeve should just sldie off. I wish I saw this thread earlier, pretty much what happened was the bearings were shot and then run for a while after that. This creates a lot of heat, which tends to seize everything up. When I did my bike, I just chucked the whole axle, carrier, sprocket and rotor because it was so bad.

 

When/if you put it back together, tap a grease fitting into the carrier, and lube it every couple of rides. Also, Use a shit ton of PB Blaster and you should be able to break the sleeve from the axle, and maybe have a shot at getting the other bearing out of the carrier.

 

Good luck bro!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The sleeve should just sldie off. I wish I saw this thread earlier, pretty much what happened was the bearings were shot and then run for a while after that. This creates a lot of heat, which tends to seize everything up. When I did my bike, I just chucked the whole axle, carrier, sprocket and rotor because it was so bad.

 

When/if you put it back together, tap a grease fitting into the carrier, and lube it every couple of rides. Also, Use a shit ton of PB Blaster and you should be able to break the sleeve from the axle, and maybe have a shot at getting the other bearing out of the carrier.

 

I agree with most of that. I think if you pack the carrier with grease when you reassemble it, you shouldn't need ato install a zerk fitting. I might have a couple problems with a zerk fitting and the fact that you would be trying to force greae through a sealed ball bearing as well.

 

The axle could still be bent. That sleeve that is stuck on there should slide fairly freely if the axle and the sleeve are in good condition. Remember, it will take less than .001" of runout on the axle before you start having problem like you describe. You may want tofind the most flat surface you can find and roll the axle back and forth on it. If the axle appears to wobble (technical term) at all, then it's bent and you should just get a new G-Force unit from RMATV.

 

If you need more help, let me know. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with most of that. I think if you pack the carrier with grease when you reassemble it, you shouldn't need ato install a zerk fitting. I might have a couple problems with a zerk fitting and the fact that you would be trying to force greae through a sealed ball bearing as well.

 

The thing I don't like about using a ton of grease is that I don't think it will dissipate the heat as well. I like to leave mostly air, and then just a bit of grease for lubriation. Any of the aftermarket bearings are all sealed, so obviously there is no need to grease them, but I like to have just a little bit of a buffer between the axle,and bearings, and the axle and sleeve.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finally got that bish off the axle. I took off the brake rotar and I had this pipe that I put the axle in but the end of the pipe was to small for the piece that the rotar mounts to go in. I put a piece of wood on the ground so I dint mess my ends up on the axle and started to beat on the pipe with a hammer after a while it stoped moving the sleve. Then I ditched the small hammer and gave it one nice hit with the sledge and it came right off :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you dont want to go the whole grease fitting route, I would recommend getting a new sleeve anyway, and sand down your axle where the sleeve and bearings all sit so its nice and smooth. Take the new sleeve and drill holes in it like described in your other post. Just enough in different spots to get the grease in there.

 

pull off the inside of the sealed bearings and install one of them, pack the carrier with grease, MAKE SURE YOU PUT THE SLEEVE IN NEXT, and then install the other bearing with open side in. Install the seals and then install the axle.

 

It'll be messy packing the axle with grease and then putting the slide in, but it'll keep everything well lubed in there, and you wont be forcing grease through the outer seals of the bearings every time you pump grease.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...