Eibach spring spacer?

[sand4ever]

When I talked to them a week or so ago, they said a spring, collar and revalve was $325. I wish I had that much right now to have it done.

[FireHead]

When I talked to them a week or so ago, they said a spring, collar and revalve was $325. I wish I had that much right now to have it done.

 

I think you might get a deal on the rvalving if you have it done all at once. It may be more expensive to have it done at a later date. I don't know that for sure, but I thought I should throw that out there. :thumbsup:

[sand4ever]

Just talked to cascade and he says my shock is probably blown. Thinking back, when i sat on there bike with the spring and was revalved, was nice. The bike squated just a little, then I put mine on and what the hell. It sagged alot. Anyways they told me I could bring it back for a refund if I wanted. Does the shock make that much of a difference? I thought the spring held the weight and the shock took care of the compressinon and rebound rate? Am I wrong. Thanks

[FireHead]

Just talked to cascade and he says my shock is probably blown. Thinking back, when i sat on there bike with the spring and was revalved, was nice. The bike squated just a little, then I put mine on and what the hell. It sagged alot. Anyways they told me I could bring it back for a refund if I wanted. Does the shock make that much of a difference? I thought the spring held the weight and the shock took care of the compressinon and rebound rate? Am I wrong. Thanks

 

The shock valving will make alot of difference in how well the spring action is controlled. If the shock is blown, the rear suspension will exhibit charateristics of that similair to a pogo stick. I don't think your uderstanding is wrong.

 

Depending on what you want to do and when you need it done by, I will be moved to Portland by the middle of next week and I can look at your bike if you want. I don't have much experience with Banshee suspension in your weight class, but I am sure we can figure something out. :thumbsup:

[racer]

(Off the top of my head 3" of sag sounds acceptable with a +4" arm and a 200lbs.'ish rider.)

Racetech told me 1" free sag, and 25-30% sag with rider/gear.

[FireHead]

Racetech told me 1" free sag, and 25-30% sag with rider/gear.

 

There ya go, someone was able to give you an actual number. :thumbsup:

[sand4ever]

My measurement are from the top of the axle to the rear most part of the plastic behind the seat. With the bike on the jack I had a measurement of 22 1/2 inches. Took the bike off the stand and it was 22 inches. Then with me on the bike and my wife measured 17 1/2 inches. So that would be free sag of 1/2 inch and race sag of 5 inches. I am not sure what percentage that is, but what do you think?

[FireHead]

My measurement are from the top of the axle to the rear most part of the plastic behind the seat. With the bike on the jack I had a measurement of 22 1/2 inches. Took the bike off the stand and it was 22 inches. Then with me on the bike and my wife measured 17 1/2 inches. So that would be free sag of 1/2 inch and race sag of 5 inches. I am not sure what percentage that is, but what do you think?

 

The ratio from free to race sag is roughly 1/5 by your measurements, which works out to be 20%. Ask Gimmeeabeer what he thinks, I am afraid he knows more about this sprcific application than I do. :thumbsup:

[racer]

Those numbers seem a little weird. If you will measure it again, but dont use a jack. Pick up the bike by hand so you can feel where the free sag ends, and measure from there. When I did mine I picked up the back end til i could feel the tires about to come off, then took a measure. After that I jumped on the grab bar and jumped off. The bike wont come up all the way, and then I got that measure. Subtract to arrive at free sag. By not pushing the bike down and letting it some up you bring other things into play. And then use your previous measure for race sag.

 

Yamaha lists the rear suspension travel as 8.7". That gives you a desirable race sag of 2.61 - 2.175 inches. I would say you need to add some preload for sure, possibly a new spring.

 

Racetech has a spring calculator on their website. Look into that, I mean they have built a couple of decent setups before.

 

http://www.racetech.com/evalving/SpringRat...pringType=Shock

[FireHead]

Those numbers seem a little weird. If you will measure it again, but dont use a jack. Pick up the bike by hand so you can feel where the free sag ends, and measure from there. When I did mine I picked up the back end til i could feel the tires about to come off, then took a measure. After that I jumped on the grab bar and jumped off. The bike wont come up all the way, and then I got that measure. Subtract to arrive at free sag. By not pushing the bike down and letting it some up you bring other things into play. And then use your previous measure for race sag.

 

Yamaha lists the rear suspension travel as 8.7". That gives you a desirable race sag of 2.61 - 2.175 inches. I would say you need to add some preload for sure, possibly a new spring.

 

Racetech has a spring calculator on their website. Look into that, I mean they have built a couple of decent setups before.

 

http://www.racetech.com/evalving/SpringRat...pringType=Shock

 

^^He knows more than I do about the Banshee suspension. Listen to him. :thumbsup:

[sand4ever]

I am going to return the spring to cascade this weekend. It is just not heavy enough for me. Maybe next week I will order a spring and collar from TCS. At least I will know that it the spring will work for my weight. thanks for your help.

[jayzx10r]

Well I just installed the spring from cascade and adjusted it all the way in.

 

The part of this setup that bothers me is that he had to crank the spring to it's max setting to get his 3" sag. I'd like to see something that ended up in the middle of the preload range... Just that itself tells me he needs a different spring rate.

 

Here is a bit of spring basics as I understand it:

A coil spring is actually nothing more than a torsion spring...just coiled. Under observation, it actually twists within itself to give a spring effect. It is best to look at it as a coiled torsion bar.

 

If this is true, a longer swingarm coupled with a (nothing personal :biggrin:) bigger guy would benefit significantly from the TCS spring because of it's greater coil diameter, which translates into a longer piece of spring material---or torsion spring...all other aspecs (such as coil spacing and rod diameter) being equal. I prefer a longer (read as larger coil diameter), lighter spring over a shorter, heavier spring (stock diameter coil) as with the Cascade part.

 

I'm sure either one will work though as long as the final sag ends up in the middle of the preload adjustment. You just get to be picky when you are doing your own mods....

 

Just my .02 pesos....

 

Jay From SanD.

[FireHead]

The part of this setup that bothers me is that he had to crank the spring to it's max setting to get his 3" sag. I'd like to see something that ended up in the middle of the preload range... Just that itself tells me he needs a different spring rate.

 

Here is a bit of spring basics as I understand it:

A coil spring is actually nothing more than a torsion spring...just coiled. Under observation, it actually twists within itself to give a spring effect. It is best to look at it as a coiled torsion bar.

 

If this is true, a longer swingarm coupled with a (nothing personal :biggrin:) bigger guy would benefit significantly from the TCS spring because of it's greater coil diameter, which translates into a longer piece of spring material---or torsion spring...all other aspecs (such as coil spacing and rod diameter) being equal. I prefer a longer (read as larger coil diameter), lighter spring over a shorter, heavier spring (stock diameter coil) as with the Cascade part.

 

I'm sure either one will work though as long as the final sag ends up in the middle of the preload adjustment. You just get to be picky when you are doing your own mods....

 

Just my .02 pesos....

 

Jay From SanD.

 

I agree with regard to your statement about preload adjustment.

 

A larger diameter srping does not necessarily mean it has a higher spring rate or load capacity. It actually depends on many things such as material, heat treat, wire diameter, spring diameter, wind pattern, etc. :geek: