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wanna rise dome cc`s


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I just got my bike tuned 1 degree from frikin perfect last night. I did a compression test before I rejetted jest to make sure my new head didnt have and air or water leaks and I still only have about 135 psi each cyclinder with 21cc domes. Im only runnng 93. Ive also got a timing plate on the way for +4-5 degrees. Can I go any lower in dome size? I want to get the most out of this thing as I can.

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i had 19 cc domes w 155 or 160 compression[i think]but i use 50/50 race gas pump gas,sea level.hope this helps.also the guy that bores my cyls makes a nice tight bore[tighter bore,better comp] :evil: ,i just had to brake it in easy.4 or 5 heat cycles yadda,yadda,yadda.

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I would leave the domes, put 4 degrees of timing on it...and listen to your motor, check your plugs often.

yep, mine is suposed to have 20's (& 4 deprees)& its wore and I got 150 ... im just up the road from you, I'd leave it ...when I do the top & if they are 20's i'm gonna go to 21's...Ive been running 110 to be safe & when I run out this tank i'm trying 93

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yep, mine is suposed to have 20's (& 4 deprees)& its wore and I got 150 ... im just up the road from you, I'd leave it ...when I do the top & if they are 20's i'm gonna go to 21's...Ive been running 110 to be safe & when I run out this tank i'm trying 93

 

word. I got my plate in the mail today and Im going to stop by TDR and pick up a puller and install it. I cant wait to take it out this weekend.

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I just got my bike tuned 1 degree from frikin perfect last night. I did a compression test before I rejetted jest to make sure my new head didnt have and air or water leaks and I still only have about 135 psi each cyclinder with 21cc domes. Im only runnng 93. Ive also got a timing plate on the way for +4-5 degrees. Can I go any lower in dome size? I want to get the most out of this thing as I can.

 

What are you willing to run for fuel (alcohol, race fuel, nitromethane, etc.)? Do you have a welded crankshaft?

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What are you willing to run for fuel (alcohol, race fuel, nitromethane, etc.)? Do you have a welded crankshaft?

 

Im willing to run 93. I dont want to have to get any additived due to the fact that Im to lazy to get gas and oil as it is. I have a hotrods crank but I dontknow if its welded or not. I want to get to about 65-70hp. Do people really use nitromethane in banshees? :blink: In about 3 months Im going to buy a pair of 404`s or something and have em ported and at that time Ill have the crank checked.

Edited by fastrthnu
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Im willing to run 93. I dont want to have to get any additived due to the fact that Im to lazy to get gas and oil as it is. I have a hotrods crank but I dontknow if its welded or not. I want to get to about 65-70hp. Do people really use nitromethane in banshees? :blink: In about 3 months Im going to buy a pair of 404`s or something and have em ported and at that time Ill have the crank checked.

 

You're not going to get to 65-70 HP on a stock banshee motor with just bolt ons. Unless one of those bolt ons is a bottle with a 30 shot on it...LOL.

 

Don't waste your money on a monoblock (I assume you mean from Vitos.) Get your stockers ported....you can damn near get the same gain with a LOT less invested.

 

When you're ready to steup up...go with a Cheetah or cub, and be prepared to spend a ton (tranny, clutch, swinger, shock, etc....it keeps on going and going)

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Yeah,. I plan on getting ported in about 3 months by Tony doukas racing once they move over to the west coast.

Check with noss onthe toque specs. I think it was incriments of 5 ft/lbs up to 20. like 5-10-15-20 in sequence with the numbers cast into the stock head.

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Yes, 20 ft/lbs in three steps is good on torque. I would be a little suspicious of that compression reading,,,sounds pretty low. Does the compression tester thread in as far as the spark plug?

 

-David

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Yes, 20 ft/lbs in three steps is good on torque. I would be a little suspicious of that compression reading,,,sounds pretty low. Does the compression tester thread in as far as the spark plug?

 

-David

 

there was an adaptor piece that went on the end of the tester hose that went in as deep as the spark plug,. so that litlle extra space in that adaptor may have added some area to the compression area?

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The adapter should really lower the reading unless there is a significant airspace inside the adapter itself. If it is only a small hole through the adapter between the cylinder end and the check valve of the tester it shouldn't change the reading much. A leaky check valve in the tester can also give a false low reading.

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The adapter should really lower the reading unless there is a significant airspace inside the adapter itself. If it is only a small hole through the adapter between the cylinder end and the check valve of the tester it shouldn't change the reading much. A leaky check valve in the tester can also give a false low reading.

 

I just measured the space and it holds 1.5 cc in the adaptor.

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