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Also there are no heads on the market that you can plung cut a 5mm hole into first and then design your dome after. Blowit im with you on the limitaions of the stock cylinders. I think if I was going to do it again I would get a 10mm crank and come cubs or cheetas. That is the best bang for the buck IMO. That way you could run off the shelf parts and if you wanted to you could run domes big enough for pump gas if there was too much power. Oh well, next time when this thing is old and tired.

 

You can go 5mm into a Pro Design head. I've seen me do it. :thumbsup:

 

The Cub cylinders are definitely the best bang for the buck deal on the market right now.

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I like it when a thread like this takes off. That was very educational.

I am thinking i am going to buy a 7mm crank and some cubs for my hybrid. Provided i save enough.

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dont bother with the 7mm when the 10mm is the same cost. You might want to wait and see how the new twister billet cylinders come out too after builders get the out comes. They accept a 76mm piston which is way bigger than the 68 of the cubs.

 

The Twister cylinder block ought to cool better than a Cheetah will as well. :thumbsup:

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? what does that mean ? lol

 

ought to cool better than a Cheetah will as well

 

ok u got me.... :starwars:

 

The twister cylinder block has a different water jacket and inlet/outlet condiguration than the standard Banshee system. The Cheetah cylinder are fairly similair to stock cylinders with regard to cooling system configuration. :thumbsup:

 

Does that make sense? :mage:

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so it won't go in the top and exit the top?

they might actually have a real coolant flow that goes in the bottom and exit the head?

if yamaha would have done that a majority of the overheating problems on the banshee wouldn't exist.

 

as far as going 10mm vs 7mm

10mm might require welding or epoxy after clearancing. 7mm just requires some clearancing. no metal build up. that sounds a lot better. 68mm bore 61mm stroke sounds plenty fine to me. 70hp on gas shouldn't take too much porting should it?

Edited by Toybreaker
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BTW toybreaker.. I have been working my ass off (not really) getting the 250r up and running... Fame is painted and I have been powdercoating parts...spindles, A arms, swingarms, pretty much anything I can find to powdercoat and it's coming together.... Motor is not done yet, but the cases worked out... So you may be getting a decent bike.. new plastics, seat cover, bearings, ect.. on pinks... So since I'm running a case reed motor am I going to get a few hp on N20?

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so it won't go in the top and exit the top?

they might actually have a real coolant flow that goes in the bottom and exit the head?

if yamaha would have done that a majority of the overheating problems on the banshee wouldn't exist.

Yeah, the new Twister cylinders are going have the coolant inlet port on the lower left side of the block and have it exit out the top of the head somewhere. If done properly that ought to give the engine a proper cooling system. :thumbsup:

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BTW toybreaker.. I have been working my ass off (not really) getting the 250r up and running... Fame is painted and I have been powdercoating parts...spindles, A arms, swingarms, pretty much anything I can find to powdercoat and it's coming together.... Motor is not done yet, but the cases worked out... So you may be getting a decent bike.. new plastics, seat cover, bearings, ect.. on pinks... So since I'm running a case reed motor am I going to get a few hp on N20?

 

 

I'll run my 87.... heads up first race. no sandbagging.

we going 660 feet?

Not sure about a 300 foot race those early lt's have tons of low end torque.

 

LOL have to rebuild both of them after that last trip to the dunes though. Blew both of the up.

Seized the 85 and 89 psi compression on the 87 (barely runs now)

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