FireHead Posted March 13, 2007 Report Share Posted March 13, 2007 Yep yep....was thinking the same thing, you just have more than enough time on your hands to type all that...LOL.I think it's based on the "ice slick" and less cleanup time as well in case someone goes pop down the strip.... Never had an overheating problem with straight water...and that was on race fuel. With alky, the bikes only gonna run cooler, so...I'll be sticking with water!! I find myself spending more time on the HQ latley while I am on the phone at work. From a professional stand point, I have basically been using the HQ for typing practice. Ever since I broke my hand while testing a vehicle in 2002 my typing has basically degraded to 40 or so words per mintue and recently that started to bother me. Besides, I always wish that people add as much detail as relevant to any technical conversation and I certainly know how frustrating it is not to see the whole technical picture. So, hopefully people enjoy my posts and aren't burdened by having to read too much. As a side note, if I change jobs here in the near future (which may take me out of racing), I may finally take some people up on there request to have me write a column for a magazine once a month or so. If nothing else, I have been putting off writing a couple papers for the SAE that I probably need to work on. Either way, that is my plan to keep in touch with racing and to stroke my ego a bit if Ileave the racing industr and certainly would not be very successful doing that sort of writing at 40wpm. The trick with running just water in an engine is that it doesn't benefit from the raising of the coolant's boiling point or degassing of the coolant that is afforded by running some sort of antifreeze. If you do run straight water then you may want to look into creating a higher pressure cooling system as that will also raise the water's boiling point (I have no idea what the maximum pressure the Banshee cooling system can support or what pressure the water pump can produce. There are obviously several limitations to be found there). Last but not least, just because you are running alcohol should not mean that your engine will cumulatively run cooler. While alcohol does make an engine run cooler, it also affords you the ability to run higher compression, higher rpm's, andget more fuel into the combustion process than you would be able to with a petroleum based fuel. The net effect is that even though alcohol is a cooler burning fuel, if you take advantage of it's characteristics you will reject more heat and thus run in the same temperature range as you would be if you were running gasoline. In other words, the only way alcohol makes an engine run cooler than gas is if you were switch fuels without doing anything else. :geek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted March 13, 2007 Report Share Posted March 13, 2007 Oh no...Mark. Don't take that as you "write too much"...I just meant I was lazy and didn't want to type all you just did... I've done my fair share of typing...and as I told you before, I enjoy and appreciate your insight and knowledge you bring to the HQ... I ran 185PSI and a SHIT LOAD of timing on my 4 mil with race fuel. I plan on running the same compression and timing on my 10 mil. So...pretty much same size bore (68mm) and a longer stroke crank. The rest is pretty much the same... And I think you'll also agree that the size of the water jackets in OEM cylinders pale in comparison to cub cylinders...thus, better cooling. From the strip to the dunes, my bike never had any heat problems. I don't forsee any in my new 10mil on alky, either... I'm not varying too much from my proven setup in my old 4 mil, compression and timing-wise. On that note, I've had the same radiator cap on my bike which is OEM...from 96. Probably be a good idea to test it out, and at the very least replace it as well. Not sure what the system pressure is for the bike, I'd bet it's in a clymers manual...though!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted March 14, 2007 Report Share Posted March 14, 2007 Oh no...Mark. Don't take that as you "write too much"...I just meant I was lazy and didn't want to type all you just did... I've done my fair share of typing...and as I told you before, I enjoy and appreciate your insight and knowledge you bring to the HQ... I ran 185PSI and a SHIT LOAD of timing on my 4 mil with race fuel. I plan on running the same compression and timing on my 10 mil. So...pretty much same size bore (68mm) and a longer stroke crank. The rest is pretty much the same... And I think you'll also agree that the size of the water jackets in OEM cylinders pale in comparison to cub cylinders...thus, better cooling. From the strip to the dunes, my bike never had any heat problems. I don't forsee any in my new 10mil on alky, either... I'm not varying too much from my proven setup in my old 4 mil, compression and timing-wise. On that note, I've had the same radiator cap on my bike which is OEM...from 96. Probably be a good idea to test it out, and at the very least replace it as well. Not sure what the system pressure is for the bike, I'd bet it's in a clymers manual...though!! I would be interested in what the cooling system pressure for the Banshee is supppose to be. I am running the same OEM rad. cap just like you are. In fact, I think I have only seen an afrermarket cap once. I think PWR makes it. However, Fullbore used to make a fancy aluminum cap cover that is sort of neat looking. It's not neat enough looking for me to track one down or make one just to put an extra cosmetic part on my bike. If needed, I think I could probably guestimate the flow and pressure output from the water pump at a given rpm. I can't think of a way at the moment to determine the maximum cooling pressure unless it's written in the Clymer manual or you make a trial and error science project out of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted March 14, 2007 Report Share Posted March 14, 2007 Spec for the coolant cap is 13.5 to 17.8 PSI....if that helps firehead!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted March 14, 2007 Report Share Posted March 14, 2007 (edited) Not sure what you are trying to say? Ummmm, you will see coolant comeout the overflow line unless you have an overflow tank! I have a 16psi stant cap on mine. Edited March 14, 2007 by Snopczynski Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted March 14, 2007 Report Share Posted March 14, 2007 Spec for the coolant cap is 13.5 to 17.8 PSI....if that helps firehead!! I will file that away in my head for use later I suppose. I think there is a hole in the bottom of my mental filing cabinet though, because I sure seem to be losing alot of things lately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96_banshee_96 Posted March 14, 2007 Report Share Posted March 14, 2007 (edited) To be honest...capacity wise I'm not sure. I fill the radiator to the top, then I squeeze the lower hose going from the water pump to the bottom of the radiator to "burb" any air bubbles. Fill it to the top again. And ride. Then...check it again. However, for the pavement drag strip, you're required to run 100% water, and have a catch can. So...for that I'll just fasten up a pop bottle, etc., just like everyone else. Dajogejr...Can you post a close up pic of the hoses you are talking about and were they connect to the motor. I am new to this stuff and dont quite no where these hoses go. There is one probly .25" that comes off the clutch cover. I have a long ass tube that runs from the radiator at the top by the cap that runs to the back of my bike with a screw in the end. I also have a tube that comes off the back end of my motor that is about .25". I also have another tube about .25" that has a 3 way in it with tubes coming off the right and left ends but there is room for one in the middle, I asume that I have to connect one to the middle link because it is left open. The hose with the 3 way in it is going thru a loop by the back brake fluid resivor cap but it is not connected to anything. If you or someone can take some close up pics of where these hoses go I would GREATLY appreciate it!!! I want to put all my fluids in this weekend and fire her up but I dont want something to phuck up because the hoses are not connected right. Sorry if this shit sounds confusing but I am confused my self as to where these tubes go and what they do. Edited March 14, 2007 by 96_banshee_96 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted March 14, 2007 Report Share Posted March 14, 2007 Dajogejr...Can you post a close up pic of the hoses you are talking about and were they connect to the motor. I am new to this stuff and dont quite no where these hoses go. There is one probly .25" that comes off the clutch cover. I have a long ass tube that runs from the radiator at the top by the cap that runs to the back of my bike with a screw in the end. I also have a tube that comes off the back end of my motor that is about .25". I also have another tube about .25" that has a 3 way in it with tubes coming off the right and left ends but there is room for one in the middle, I asume that I have to connect one to the middle link because it is left open. The hose with the 3 way in it is going thru a loop by the back brake fluid resivor cap but it is not connected to anything. If you or someone can take some close up pics of where these hoses go I would GREATLY appreciate it!!! I want to put all my fluids in this weekend and fire her up but I dont want something to phuck up because the hoses are not connected right. Sorry if this shit sounds confusing but I am confused my self as to where these tubes go and what they do. If you don't want to wait for pictures, if you search this forum you will find a couple threads that was started by me with all of the pictures you are looking for. I got sort of worked up that no one would post pictures of the hose routing in one of the threads. :ohmy: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96_banshee_96 Posted March 14, 2007 Report Share Posted March 14, 2007 Think you could post a link of your thread you started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted March 14, 2007 Report Share Posted March 14, 2007 Think you could post a link of your thread you started. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...&hl=routing This is the first thread where I didn't get much help. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...&hl=routing Here is the thread that I got worked up over nobody posting pictures. Apparently, I didn't start the thread like I said I did. http://kuoi.asui.uidaho.edu/~john/tips.html I found this while searching for the post with pictures. It's not what I was looking for, but it might help. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...amp;hl=overflow This is also not what I was looking for, but it has some neat art work in the thread. At the moment, I cannot find the thread with the pictures in it. I spent the better part of an hour searching, but all I came up with was the threads listed above. If you can't figure out what you need to out of those links, let me know and I will take some pictures for you. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted March 14, 2007 Report Share Posted March 14, 2007 Dajogejr...Can you post a close up pic of the hoses you are talking about and were they connect to the motor. I am new to this stuff and dont quite no where these hoses go. There is one probly .25" that comes off the clutch cover. I have a long ass tube that runs from the radiator at the top by the cap that runs to the back of my bike with a screw in the end. I also have a tube that comes off the back end of my motor that is about .25". I also have another tube about .25" that has a 3 way in it with tubes coming off the right and left ends but there is room for one in the middle, I asume that I have to connect one to the middle link because it is left open. The hose with the 3 way in it is going thru a loop by the back brake fluid resivor cap but it is not connected to anything. If you or someone can take some close up pics of where these hoses go I would GREATLY appreciate it!!! I want to put all my fluids in this weekend and fire her up but I dont want something to phuck up because the hoses are not connected right. Sorry if this shit sounds confusing but I am confused my self as to where these tubes go and what they do. I sure wish I could for you. My bike is in pieces....LOL....as you now see it in my sig. I think Firehead has got you hooked up!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96_banshee_96 Posted March 14, 2007 Report Share Posted March 14, 2007 Dajogejr Now that I think about it I rember seeing the pics you posted in the image section. You picked a good color and those cases are bad ass :beer: . Thanks for the links Firehead I will check them out and let you know if I figure it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96_banshee_96 Posted March 14, 2007 Report Share Posted March 14, 2007 Firehead.... The first link was a lil helpful but im still not positive as to where they go. If you could snap some pics for me I would appreciate it very much. It gets confusing when they start to talk about vent hoses connecting to a T link and going to the engine and so on. I do not plan on running a resivor because I dont have one and from what I read you dont really need one. I also looked all over google yesterday trying to find diagrams and pics of motors but still no luck. So when ever you get a chance could you snap some pics. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 Firehead.... The first link was a lil helpful but im still not positive as to where they go. If you could snap some pics for me I would appreciate it very much. It gets confusing when they start to talk about vent hoses connecting to a T link and going to the engine and so on. I do not plan on running a resivor because I dont have one and from what I read you dont really need one. I also looked all over google yesterday trying to find diagrams and pics of motors but still no luck. So when ever you get a chance could you snap some pics. Thanks After spending a large amount of time looking for the thread with the pictures in it, I came to the conclusion that the thread either got deleted some how during one of the forum upgrades, or the pictures were in a thread about something else. I will take pictures of my bike when I get home. I must warn you that I have my coolant bottle moved to the front of my bike, so all of the hose routing is going to be pretty far from normal. They all connect to the proper locations, the lines are routed different than stock. Let me know if that is ok with you so I don't spend a bunch of time taking pictures that I don't need to. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 I am leaving work and heading for home in a couple minutes. Let me know if you want me to take pictures when I get there. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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