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Questions on Rebuild


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Im looking to rebuild my shee. im gunna do 30 over. tryin to figure out exactly what all i need, piston kits from wiseco (comes with rings and wrist pins) then i was going to get the complete gasket kit, and wrist pin bearings. i think that is all i need. can someone que me in on what else i need?

 

thanks, raley

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Im looking to rebuild my shee. im gunna do 30 over. tryin to figure out exactly what all i need, piston kits from wiseco (comes with rings and wrist pins) then i was going to get the complete gasket kit, and wrist pin bearings. i think that is all i need. can someone que me in on what else i need?

 

thanks, raley

 

I'm thinking by your screen name you're a Michigan boy...

Look no further.

IF they've never been bored, and the bike didn't grenade on you, .020 should be ok. You'd be wasting a bore if you went from stock to .030...

 

Here's everything you need but the coolant and machine work.

 

http://www.magicracing.com/Wiseco-Piston-K..._p_133-135.html

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HAHA thats the exact one i was lookin at to make the first post.

 

well, i never have done anything to it and i know the old owner, they had bad rings and honed it, i have all the records. i was gunna pull my jugs off and get some dial calipers and measure them before hand.

 

i was told that A&S machine was a great place to take it, its by lansing for what i was told. im just outside grand rapids, so its not that far of a drive and i like to drive so no big deal.

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HAHA thats the exact one i was lookin at to make the first post.

 

well, i never have done anything to it and i know the old owner, they had bad rings and honed it, i have all the records. i was gunna pull my jugs off and get some dial calipers and measure them before hand.

 

i was told that A&S machine was a great place to take it, its by lansing for what i was told. im just outside grand rapids, so its not that far of a drive and i like to drive so no big deal.

 

You are correct....

Dan at A&S makes some of the fastest bikes around. However....see how busy he is. I'd hate for you to bring your motor to him for a simple bore/hone and he's so busy you don't get it back for a few months....

 

Grand River Racing and RDZ are all in that neck of the woods too.

Since it sounds like you need a simple bore and hone, call each...see how far each is backed up...and go from there.

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alrighty, i was pointed to dan (got his number) and was planning to call him. do they also re-assemble them, i know i can do it but would rather leave it to a pro and have it done right, nothing worse then bringing it to silver lake for a week and breaking it the first day (how my clutch burnt up)

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alrighty, i was pointed to dan (got his number) and was planning to call him. do they also re-assemble them, i know i can do it but would rather leave it to a pro and have it done right, nothing worse then bringing it to silver lake for a week and breaking it the first day (how my clutch burnt up)

 

He can build you a motor from drain plug to spark plug....it's your money and his time. So...call him and see what and how fast he can do it for you...

 

If he's real backed up, PM Machwon on here. He is near Saginaw, his name is Bob of R&B racing.

He is cheaper for sure I know, not sure how busy he is...

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he has a PM. can someone give me a rough estimation on the price of a bore/hone? and then also a rebuild (top end and full rebuild) i wanna know about what its gunna cost so i can have all the money ready and can just go "I WANT THAT" useally makes the shop want to work on it more.

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he has a PM. can someone give me a rough estimation on the price of a bore/hone? and then also a rebuild (top end and full rebuild) i wanna know about what its gunna cost so i can have all the money ready and can just go "I WANT THAT" useally makes the shop want to work on it more.

 

Normally 60 to 120 for a bore and hone for both cylinders. Give or take.

Top end rebuilds cost a couple hundo, if you bring them the motor. Make sure it is CLEAN!!!!

 

Cash in hand in person usually gets it done faster, but I doubt you'll be getting it back that day or real soon....to be honest.

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i was guessing it would be a few weeks. same as getting a head port and polished. i was going to pull it out, get a few cans of engine degreaser and brake cleaner and make a day of it, drain the oil and that stuff. just throw it all in a tot and bring it over to them.

 

dajoge, you seem to know your stuff, i was thinkin i would do 20 over so i could still run premium (hard to find race gas around here) and heard that 40 over needs race gas, then i found 30 and thought that would be the best. any insight on that?

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i was guessing it would be a few weeks. same as getting a head port and polished. i was going to pull it out, get a few cans of engine degreaser and brake cleaner and make a day of it, drain the oil and that stuff. just throw it all in a tot and bring it over to them.

 

dajoge, you seem to know your stuff, i was thinkin i would do 20 over so i could still run premium (hard to find race gas around here) and heard that 40 over needs race gas, then i found 30 and thought that would be the best. any insight on that?

No, bore size doesn't determine the type of fuel you need to run, compression does. I get all my cylinders bored here : http://lakesmotorsports.com/

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for what i had read that all the bigger bore pistons would increase compression, thats why i ask. so it will put it back to stock compression...

 

so what is the best way to get up the compression, the cool head with new domes? its running alittle rough, so i was going to do the top end rebuild thinking its something with bad compression (rings bad or bad gaskets) im also trying to be able to beat my dad on his yz400 (4 stroke bike) in silver lake sand dunes.

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i have to look at my bike again (its been about 6 months since it went into storage) but i have T3's and the K&N filter thing. but its partly wronging rough so i need to get that fixed.

 

each of my brothers have bikes to (yz125, and a yz250) i wanna be able to smoke all of them any time i want.

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