fastrthnu Posted March 8, 2007 Report Share Posted March 8, 2007 I put t5`s back on my bike. Imoved my mains up to 300 and left everthing else alone and ran it. The bottom end sucked ass, but seemed to run great. I ran it for about 3 hours then decided to bump up the fuel on the bottom end and I screwed in my air screw a1/2 turn and dropped my neddle clip down one to 4th slot. My pilots are still 25. I was going to go with 27.5 till I ran it today. It was all sputtery and smokin normal but with some brown in it. I think its too rich now. Is it possible that the setup I had to begin with was correct and the bottom end just sucks that much? It ran great before,. just the power blew on the bottom. Im going to port later on so I stayed with the 5`s. Is there a way to get some good bottom back other than advance? I ride all terrains so.... even in trails I ride with the fury of 3/4-wot. and stuff..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted March 8, 2007 Report Share Posted March 8, 2007 well i dont know your old setup, but with damn near any aftermarket pipe you need a 27.5 pilot. id say thats part of your problem. what temperature is it down there? what intake? what do your plugs look like? have you done a WOT test yet?? what do you mean by "some brown in it"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastrthnu Posted March 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2007 (edited) well i dont know your old setup, but with damn near any aftermarket pipe you need a 27.5 pilot. id say thats part of your problem. what temperature is it down there? what intake? what do your plugs look like? have you done a WOT test yet?? what do you mean by "some brown in it"? old setup was stock pipes. 25/200. 2 turns out. temps are 80`s alt is 0-150. I was going to go with a 27.5 but it doesnt seem to need more fuel. The olny reason I messed with it was because the power sucked on the bottom end with the new pipes. With more fuel it sputters. There is brown in the smoke when all Ive ever had was white from oil. Seems like it may be spittig out oil and fuel. My new setup is no tors .030 over hot rods weisecos alum impeller noss head with 21cc domes v force 3`s lid off and T5`s. And soon +4 timing. Before I messed with it there was almost no smoke at all and no sputtering or overheating and good plugs. Just seems weird to me. Edited March 8, 2007 by fastrthnu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted March 8, 2007 Report Share Posted March 8, 2007 Did you pull the air box lid off or cut the last 1.5" off the end of the lid? K&N? If not, then thats half your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastrthnu Posted March 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2007 (edited) Did you pull the air box lid off or cut the last 1.5" off the end of the lid? K&N? If not, then thats half your problem. I cut out the top and pop riveted screen over it. So the frame of the cover is still n and the filter is butt up against the front of the box. I just remembered that the carb I have where jetted for toomeys when I got them,. I wonder if it had already come with 27.5 piots in em. Is there a way to tell? Edited March 8, 2007 by fastrthnu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTOYS Posted March 8, 2007 Report Share Posted March 8, 2007 Need to try your air screws anywhere from 1/2 out to 3 out just so we know what it likes and then tell us. You may need to lean your needle depending on wether they are stock needles or not down some. Bottom end torque = More compression, timing, gearing, and correct jetting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wesw Posted March 8, 2007 Report Share Posted March 8, 2007 and are your slides in correctly. the cutout should be facing the air box. guy around here bike was that way it ran like dogshit. cause basically its on choke the whole time. turned them around, and did some other stuff its runs a lot better. somethign to think about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastrthnu Posted March 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2007 yea,. I think my needle is one notch rich and my slides are in the right way. I only moved my air screws in one half turn,. so Ill turn em back out again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Washburn Posted March 9, 2007 Report Share Posted March 9, 2007 Go back to the stock position on your needle 3rd clip 25 piolets and 280-300 mains and turn your idle screw at half turn incriments from 1/12. 20cc domes and +7 timing on 110 octane will do the trick also a 33-35mm 2:1 carb will greatly improve bottom and top over stock carbs. Other than that a 4mil stroker ported by the rite person and you will have gobs of torque while still having the Banshee hit. Plus T5s are more of a top end pipe Dynoport 2:1 or PT Mids if you really want to improve bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted March 9, 2007 Report Share Posted March 9, 2007 I cut out the top and pop riveted screen over it. So the frame of the cover is still n and the filter is butt up against the front of the box. I just remembered that the carb I have where jetted for toomeys when I got them,. I wonder if it had already come with 27.5 piots in em. Is there a way to tell? The cover is a 2 layer cover. Did you only cut the top leaving the bottom layer there? Then you have gained nothing...Do you have the pro-flange in the air box so you don't need the cover? If not,then I'd be ordering one right now. The stock foam will let sand by and you'll go through pistons a lot faster. If you have one, then try running the shee w/o the lid, or the best way to mod the lid, is to cut the last 1.5" off the end of the lid right behind the clips so you still have all four clips. I use a skill saw. Takes 2 seconds and works great w/ keeping mud and sand off the filter. At the same time not restricting any air flow. The stock lid really holds back a shee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastrthnu Posted March 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2007 (edited) Yesterday when I got off work I changed my needle back to 3rd groove and my air screws back out to 2.25 turns out. runs great again.because of the 2.25 turns out Im guessing im still using a 25 pilot. Yea its just T5`s are just a top end pipe. I plan on getting some porting done once my psi strarts to drop and Ill have some other work done to improve the bottom end. I have 21 cc domes and will try some 20 or 19s I guess for the time being with some oct booster. I also ordered a timing plate yesterday. Oh and yes my lid is cut all the way,. You can see into the box all the way around the top. Its just the frame with the clips and a screen. Thanx for the help though. Edited March 9, 2007 by fastrthnu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okbeast Posted March 9, 2007 Report Share Posted March 9, 2007 If you bump up the compression I would highly recommend not to use octane booster. Like the saying goes, cheap shit aint good, and good shit aint cheap. Even running 100LL AV gas would be tons better then some octane booster crap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted March 10, 2007 Report Share Posted March 10, 2007 Did you move the needle and adjust the air screw at the same time???? Are you at sea level?? Every toomey I've played w/ liked the 5th clip from the top the best at sea level..... 300-320 mains, 25 pilot, needle 5th clip, adjust air screws to throttle response... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastrthnu Posted March 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2007 Did you move the needle and adjust the air screw at the same time???? Are you at sea level?? Every toomey I've played w/ liked the 5th clip from the top the best at sea level..... 300-320 mains, 25 pilot, needle 5th clip, adjust air screws to throttle response... yea,.I moved them at the same time,. but I moved the air screw out more after it was run a little bit. I had the clip at 4th on the needle and it sounded like shit and was spittin out raw fuel or something and running really hot. so I put it back at 3rd. Im at sea level and my mains are at 300. When I get my new k&n Ill probley bump it to 320. I ran it yesterday for 3 hours straight no problems. my pilots are 25 but Im screwed out 2.5 now so I might get some 27.5`s for now. Once I get ported and all Ill get bigger carbs and let the shop figure it all out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted March 13, 2007 Report Share Posted March 13, 2007 yea,.I moved them at the same time,. but I moved the air screw out more after it was run a little bit. I had the clip at 4th on the needle and it sounded like shit and was spittin out raw fuel or something and running really hot. so I put it back at 3rd. Im at sea level and my mains are at 300. When I get my new k&n Ill probley bump it to 320. I ran it yesterday for 3 hours straight no problems. my pilots are 25 but Im screwed out 2.5 now so I might get some 27.5`s for now. Once I get ported and all Ill get bigger carbs and let the shop figure it all out. Running the needles on the 5th clip will richen the mixture and make the shee run cooler, not hotter. If your air screws like to be at 2.5 turns out, then a larger pilot is defeating your purpose..Air screws at 2.5 turns out means your shee likes to be leaner....Going to a (27.5) richer pilot is not a good idea. Just because the pilots and air screws like to be lean, doesn't mean the needle won't like to be rich...different circuits in the carbs. Changing both won't tell you which change did what... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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