Voltage?

[csrmel]

not to be a dick, but thats not true. the lighting is purely a/c. if you start the bike up and idle it, you can disconnect the voltage regulator and nothing happens at all (as long as you dont zing the throttle).

 

in order for a bridge rectifier to work, it needs to have atleast 2 inputs and 2 outputs. (well 3 phase has more but thats another story).

last time i messed with my banshee the regulator has only 1 input. ive never seen a stock banshee regulator with more than 1 input. why you think those ricky stator rectifiers have like 4 wires going into and out of them? because they are bridge rectifiers using ziodes arranged in a diamond that blocks power some of the time and lets it pass other times to make dirty dc power.

 

thats basically a normal rectifier just like that. 2 inputs, 2 outputs.

 

now our stock banshee voltage regulator has only 1 input, therefore it can only be a voltage regulator ( works by shunting excess power to the ground as you said).

[Bansh-eman]

welp there you go right out of the horses mouth.... thnx blowit... cleared alot up.... this question always comeup and no one has been able to give a solid answer they just know it effects the lights .... good info!

[blowit]

welp there you go right out of the horses mouth.... thnx blowit... cleared alot up.... this question always comeup and no one has been able to give a solid answer they just know it effects the lights .... good info!

 

 

Glad to help but as mentioned above, I did mislead and I guess I need to stay on my toes here. I forget that the banshee does indeed run an isolated regulator with no means of rectification. The above post is a sketch of a bridge rectifier that does not exist in the stock banshee lighting system. Most newer bikes will all have the rectifier diodes and one glance at a bike tonight and I remembered I dropped the ball on that. However, my explanation still stands. The banshee regulator does not have anything to do with your ignition. Regulators are rated in the amount of power in watts that they can dissipate and this is why the upgraded stators need an upgrade on the regulator. Yes, if the regulator has to wires in and two out, then it would be a bridge rectifier. L1, L2 input and +/- DC output. Many times the regulator is piggied on with the rectifier in one package.

 

The way the bridge rectifier works is rather simple and basically separates the + from the - of the fully oscillating sine wave form of the AC power. Even with a rectifier, you need capacitance to further smooth the power. The caps act as a shock absorber to "smooth" the current. Light bulbs don't care AC or DC much because they are resistive loads but inductive loads such as motors care a lot about the form of power. OK, that is getting off the subject.

 

Check those connections and let us know.

 

Brandon

Mull Engineering

[Bansh-eman]

explain one thing for me then casue im a tard when it comes to electrical...

 

if you add a 200Watt RS you dont have to upgrade your regulator... why?

[csrmel]

if you have a 200w stator and 200W in lights then youre regulator is almost not even being used. the regulator only shunts EXCESS power to ground. if you have a 200w stator and 25w of lights, then 175W is being shunted to ground which is too much for the stock regulator.

 

 

also the stock regulator (atleast on my 06) has a cutoff of 9 volts. why this is? i have no idea, but if i disconnect the regulator i can zing the throttle and get some 60-70 volts out of it. enough to dimly light a household lightbulb. banshee headlights are made to run at 12-14.4v. running them at 9v with the stock regulator means reduced light output.

[Snopczynski]

The 4 wire rectifier from RS is a single Phase ac to dc rectifier/regulator. You have to float a ground on the stator and run your floated ground and stock a/c output wire into the reg/rec (2 yellows). Red wire coming out is the 12v charge wire, and black coming out of the reg/rec is the new system ground.

 

Inside of the flywheel spins around the stator and induces an ac voltage, when the outside pick up coil senses the magnet going by, it produces a small spark as a sort of crank sensor. Thus triggering your to cdi to tell the coil to fire the a/c voltage off and create a spark at the plug.

 

Other common problems are tors wires shorted or connected together, or the tors system not being properly removed. I personally have been messing with Banshee's since 1993 and have seen I think maybe 1 cdi go bad out of the fleet of bikes we own and that I work on for people. Without a strong sense of how the electrical system in the bike works, it can be very hard to trouble a no spark condition. Even if the bike had the malfunctioning component replaced, if you removed other parts improperly to get to it, or installed them improperly (ie flywheel or pick up gap) then you will still have no spark when your finished.

 

You need to make sure the tors is propely deactivated, your stator lighting circuit wires are properly installed, your flywheel is not cracked internally, your pickup gap is correct, your kill and key switches work right, you have no shorted or open wiring, and all the connections in the system are not corroded. Using an ohm meter to verify circuits and switch operations is vital and rather easy to do. If you pm me I can help out further, but this thread somehow turned into a lighting thread.