505chevelle Posted February 27, 2007 Report Share Posted February 27, 2007 I've got a bike with CPI in frames, stock carbs tors removed, boysen rad-valve, cool head with 18cc domes, timing at +6 and NO porting. I'm about 165 lbs. Should I use the +6 swingarm that I already have or stay with stock? and what tires with what swing arm? want to kick the shit out of this 700 raptor with cams and bunch of other stuff. :thumbsup: for sand drag , thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted February 27, 2007 Report Share Posted February 27, 2007 You've got a set of pipes setup for a ported motor/drag motor, stock carbs, no porting. That setup is mismatched at best. Use your stock swingarm, 6 over and your weight will sit and spin....while a box stock 700 will eat you up at the starting line and keep on going. If that Raptor's done up, you're gonna need more than pipes and a head bolted on.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
505chevelle Posted February 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2007 I can get him on asphalt and the bike really runs decent but that wasn't the ? on the pipes. so...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheeryder_69 Posted February 27, 2007 Report Share Posted February 27, 2007 sell the swinger and put it towards funds for porting :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
505chevelle Posted February 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2007 want to buy it? I have a 4mil stroke 5mil long rod crank sitting here, should I port my jugs or buy cub 421? want a cub but want it to be ridable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Duece Posted February 27, 2007 Report Share Posted February 27, 2007 (edited) want to buy it? I have a 4mil stroke 5mil long rod crank sitting here, should I port my jugs or buy cub 421? want a cub but want it to be ridable. ......... im not sure i know what ridable means?........what ever your riding you need to dial it in........... it doesnt matter if it is a quad with 500 HP.........a stock shee is fairly rideable why dont you stick with that Edited February 27, 2007 by Blue Duece Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
505chevelle Posted February 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2007 .........im not sure i know what ridable means?........what ever your riding you need to dial it in........... it doesnt matter if it is a quad with 500 HP.........a stock shee is fairly rideable why dont you stick with that mine runs fine, I don't want an all out drag bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
505chevelle Posted February 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2007 would like to end up with 65-75 hp and not have an all out drag bike that I can't take in the trails and on a mx track, maybe that clears up "ridable". What would an as cast port 421 cub make power wise with good carbs, v-force 3 on race fuel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted February 27, 2007 Report Share Posted February 27, 2007 would like to end up with 65-75 hp and not have an all out drag bike that I can't take in the trails and on a mx track, maybe that clears up "ridable". What would an as cast port 421 cub make power wise with good carbs, v-force 3 on race fuel? 421 on race fuel with proper carbs and those CPI pipes will make high 80s, even mid to low 90's all day long. It is a DRAG bike and duner then....trust me on that. You can get ridable 70's all day long on OEM cylinders, you're gonna have to get bigger carbs, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted February 28, 2007 Report Share Posted February 28, 2007 I've got a bike with CPI in frames, stock carbs tors removed, boysen rad-valve, cool head with 18cc domes, timing at +6 and NO porting. I'm about 165 lbs. Should I use the +6 swingarm that I already have or stay with stock? and what tires with what swing arm? want to kick the shit out of this 700 raptor with cams and bunch of other stuff. :thumbsup: for sand drag , thanks If your looking to add porting to your package and have a sweet deal on a swingarm staring at you, then get it. It will leave you room to grow into. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalinIt Posted March 1, 2007 Report Share Posted March 1, 2007 My 421 Cub is very dune-able, but by no means is it a trail riding pig. Mine is not an all out drag bike, but it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted March 1, 2007 Report Share Posted March 1, 2007 You've got a set of pipes setup for a ported motor/drag motor, stock carbs, no porting.That setup is mismatched at best. Use your stock swingarm, 6 over and your weight will sit and spin....while a box stock 700 will eat you up at the starting line and keep on going. If that Raptor's done up, you're gonna need more than pipes and a head bolted on.... As it seems that everyone has mentioned, the 6" over swing arm is not appropriate for you application. If a 421 cub is in your future, then the 6" arm might plausible. However, if you like to jump your bike a 6" over arm will make the bike tough to control in the air and present you with a challenge to find a proper shock absorber. I personally don't believe in a swing arm over +4 unless most of your time is spent drag racing. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
505chevelle Posted March 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2007 Thanks guys for the info, Still thinkin on doing the cub motor, but would need to do some tranny work right, thinkin that dunable overide. you can still use it as an normal tranny as far as down shifting, is that right? would like some one to explain that very well, as do's and don't with the dunable overide. got a quote for f.a.s.t and really thinkin about going that route, thanks chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted March 3, 2007 Report Share Posted March 3, 2007 With a cub, do it right the first time. Get a dunable override and lockup clutch. Yes, in theory you can still down shift and ride the tranny as normal. However, I wouldn't use the motor to slow the bike down...but that's just me. The gears themselves are cut the same as a standard override, the drum is cut/welded a little different, and they use springs on the shift shaft/forks... Several on here have used the dunable with no issues...I still want to see how it's gonna hold up to my 10 mil personally. I know loco runs a redline dunable override on his 4 and 10 mil if I'm not mistaken, working just fine for him. I am just a tad skeptical on them, until I actually get mine installed and it proves itself! I can tell you my 4 mil cub with a stock tranny and stock clutch absolutely sucked to shift. Motor ran great, but at the strip or the dunes, under WOT, it hardly ever shifted. And I let 4 or 5 people ride my bike and they said the same exact thing...."how do you shift this thing?"... case in point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh88 Posted March 5, 2007 Report Share Posted March 5, 2007 Put the swingarm on! You'll be able to rev the shit out of and dop the clutch without having to lean over the handlebars. I have less engine than you and constantly loop up my '06 stock swingarm. My +4 on my '02 keeps me pretty firmly planted. Sounds liek you want to drag and will continue to. +6 will be good for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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