Trick2stroke Posted February 23, 2007 Report Share Posted February 23, 2007 I just got my PD cool head in from a fellow BHQ member and the size domes I had planned to use, one of them is in ruff shape and I'm wondering if it's useable and how it would effect performance/functionality if I did in fact use it. Here's a pic. I would use the others but I bought the head so I could run higher compression. So I'd rather run the 20's over the 22's. Appreciate any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trick2stroke Posted February 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2007 No? Anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted February 23, 2007 Report Share Posted February 23, 2007 I just got my PD cool head in from a fellow BHQ member and the size domes I had planned to use, one of them is in ruff shape and I'm wondering if it's useable and how it would effect performance/functionality if I did in fact use it. Here's a pic. I would use the others but I bought the head so I could run higher compression. So I'd rather run the 20's over the 22's. Appreciate any help. That thing is pretty ate up. I would not run it because the chamber is either larger or smaller than it is supposed to be. I cannot tell if that is pitting or compacted metal. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trick2stroke Posted February 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2007 Yeah, that was my concern. It's alittle of both really, more pitting then anything though. I guess I'll have to pony up for some new ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted February 23, 2007 Report Share Posted February 23, 2007 I had one that looked kind of like that. I ceramic coated it. It is a coating that is a heat barrier and heat reflective. That keeps the heat from building up in the cooling system. The heat passes out the engine with the exhaust instead of soaking in to internal engine parts. I also did the pistons while I was at it. You could try it and have some body do it if you didnt want to buy new domes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trick2stroke Posted February 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2007 Hmm, wow the ceramic coating filled in all the pits and it didn't effect your dome size? Sounds pretty appealing, where did you have it done and how much was it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted February 23, 2007 Report Share Posted February 23, 2007 Did you KNOW the domes were like that when you agreed to purchase them? If not, I'd be getting my money back.... For the cost and hassle it's gonna be to fix/repair/remachine that one, it might be cheaper just to buy new/used domes in good shape... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted February 23, 2007 Report Share Posted February 23, 2007 I had one that looked kind of like that. I ceramic coated it. It is a coating that is a heat barrier and heat reflective. That keeps the heat from building up in the cooling system. The heat passes out the engine with the exhaust instead of soaking in to internal engine parts. I also did the pistons while I was at it. You could try it and have some body do it if you didnt want to buy new domes. Not to take away from the ceramic coating idea, as it might be worthwhile in this case, in jbooker82 's case, did you machine the pistons and domes any before having the coating applied? The reason I ask is that there is certainly a thickness associated with any coating (a difference between a coating and a surface treatment) and with the ceramics it can be quite considerable (anywhere from 25-100 microns). This would be enough of a difference to change you chamber size, create a bore interference, or modify your squish band. http://www.performancecoatings.com/pci.html If anyone is interested, these folks are good workers. I have used them for several things. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted February 23, 2007 Report Share Posted February 23, 2007 who in the fuck sold you a dome like that? i wouldnt sell one like that to anyone, even if they agreed to buy it. i think new domes are like 60 bucks for a pair.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted February 24, 2007 Report Share Posted February 24, 2007 who in the fuck sold you a dome like that? i wouldnt sell one like that to anyone, even if they agreed to buy it. I would tend agree with loco. I just hadn't gotten a chance to turn on the glow plugs in my brain yet. :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducman Posted February 24, 2007 Report Share Posted February 24, 2007 A little trick I have done to clean up the dome surface from carbon or detonation pits is installed a plug in the dome, chucked the plug into a cordless drill and hold some 100 then 400 grit wet/dry emmery paper up to the dome surface while spinning and it cleans it up like new. Try to do it to both domes the same amount and dont touch the bottom edge of the dome (where the o-ring goes). Those domes look pretty Fed up though, but if you want to try to save them give it a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MILO Posted February 24, 2007 Report Share Posted February 24, 2007 (edited) who in the fuck sold you a dome like that? i wouldnt sell one like that to anyone, even if they agreed to buy it. i think new domes are like 60 bucks for a pair.. i'm with loco. those things would have just gone in the trash. i hate to say it bud but if you paid more than $1 a piece for them, you got ripped. a fellow hq'er?? man, that's sad... that ceramic coating sounds good, but i'd be worried about it coming apart and chunks in my cylinder. for the price of new domes, i'd just go with new ones. Edited February 24, 2007 by MILO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted February 24, 2007 Report Share Posted February 24, 2007 Not to take away from the ceramic coating idea, as it might be worthwhile in this case, in jbooker82 's case, did you machine the pistons and domes any before having the coating applied? The reason I ask is that there is certainly a thickness associated with any coating (a difference between a coating and a surface treatment) and with the ceramics it can be quite considerable (anywhere from 25-100 microns). This would be enough of a difference to change you chamber size, create a bore interference, or modify your squish band. http://www.performancecoatings.com/pci.html If anyone is interested, these folks are good workers. I have used them for several things. :thumbsup: I just did it my self. You have to blast the parts with a sharp hard media. Somthing like slag "the black blast" or silica sand. You cant use glass beeds because they dont opean up the poors of the metal. I used an air brush to spray the coating on. Then baked it at 325 for 1 hr. Here is the coatins I used. Techline Coatings Retail Coatings LINK CBC1 on the piston heads, and domes. DFL1 on the skirts of the pistons. WSX Buffed in to the Cross hatched cylinder. It is real picky. You spray it on to thick and it will buble up and you get to restart over. josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted February 24, 2007 Report Share Posted February 24, 2007 I just did it my self. You have to blast the parts with a sharp hard media. Somthing like slag "the black blast" or silica sand. You cant use glass beeds because they dont opean up the poors of the metal. I used an air brush to spray the coating on. Then baked it at 325 for 1 hr. Here is the coatins I used. Techline Coatings Retail Coatings LINK CBC1 on the piston heads, and domes. DFL1 on the skirts of the pistons. WSX Buffed in to the Cross hatched cylinder. It is real picky. You spray it on to thick and it will buble up and you get to restart over. josh I am not sure that I am sold on this particular product line's legitimacy. While the concept is sound, and several of the correct terms are used, the coating thickness and and application temperatures are a bit off. Using the cermet coating as an example, a typical application on a turbo housing may be 25-50 microns and be electrostacially applied, then baked on at greater than 1200 degree F. If you used this coating on a header or exhaust part it would be put on much thicker. I am assuming that the WSX coating is a dry film moly coating, which is apllied in a fluidized bath. I guess what I am trying to get at is that if these type of coating were to be applied as these products suggest and performed reasonably, then you would think that the people who do coating work like this would apply it the same way, it would be less expensive, and more people would do it. It really seems like something you would see on a late night infomercial on the Speed channel. You'll have to let us know how they hold up and if you notice and performance differences. I am guessing that the coatings will come off pretty quickly and/or not do much, but as always....................there is a good chance that I am wrong. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trick2stroke Posted February 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2007 I knew one of them was messed up but I didn't know quite how bad and which set it belonged to. They came with the cool head I bought off him, it was just the one 20cc dome that is fucked up. The 22's are fine but what's the point ya know. I was just checking if there was any reasonable way to salvage it. Thanks for the link FireHead, I may look into that when I really get deeper into the motor with porting ect.. I don't have nearly enough money or suspension right now for worrying with the motor much, yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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