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Any one have any experiance with running Nos in there Shee? dry kit or wet shot kits? is it worth it for the power? Let me know what you guys think about it and running it.

 

 

IMO dont mess with the dry kit your just looking for trouble with it. Other than that pull the timing out and give it plenty of fuel and a small shot 5-10 per hole you could run it all day and have loads of fun. :thumbsup:

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Im just looking to use it every once in a while when im at the dunes drag racing

 

 

I dont know your set up but if its good and you dont kill the spray evry time you run it could handle up to 30-50 per hole I have a buddy sprayin 60 a hole. but I dont know your set up.

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Man Ive thought about hookin nitrous up, I bet you could make some dependable horsepower if you set it up right.

 

What about BoonDockers, ive heard good and bad about it :shrug:

 

 

I dont like the boondockers because it is a dry systom but I am sure people have had good luck. Nate mccoy and henderson racing sell great reliable set ups

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well my setup is a 350 maxxed out dune drag poerted 34mm flatslide carbs boost bottle , 19cc dome with pro design cool head, stock bore and stroke with cpi inframes, i was told when i got it there is nothing more you can do to it without boring or stroking and beleive me ive raced quite a bit of people on the hill with it and it seems abnormally fast for a 350 especially with a 250lbs rider on it ( lol me) i pretty much beat everything but a 370 stroker running alchohol and he had a lock up clutch but i stayed right with him at the top of the him he got me off the start cause i was still gettin used to the bike ( first time out). but as far as 350 i beat them pretty badly everyone thinks i have a 370 for higher. so yea i want the nos kit just for the drag part not all the time , why would you guys like the wet kit rather than the dry kit seams to me the dry kit would be more reliable due to not as much horse power shot but hey any ideas or explantions im all ears to any suggestions.

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why would you guys like the wet kit rather than the dry kit seams to me the dry kit would be more reliable due to not as much horse power shot but hey any ideas or explantions im all ears to any suggestions.

 

When you spray nitrous in your engine it creates a lot of heat. Adding gas to it cools it down. The dry kit just shoots nitrous w'out adding fuel and you can melt your engine. :banghead: The wet kit on the other hand shoots nitrous along with gas to cool it down.

Edited by blueshee
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why would you guys like the wet kit rather than the dry kit seams to me the dry kit would be more reliable due to not as much horse power shot but hey any ideas or explantions im all ears to any suggestions.

When you spray nitrous in your engine it creates a lot of heat. Adding gas to it cools it down. The dry kit just shoots nitrous w'out adding fuel and you can melt your engine. :banghead: The wet kit on the other hand shoots nitrous along with gas to cool it down.

 

Here is the real explination. Nitrous is NO2. 1 atom of Nitrogen with 2 atoms of Oxygen. When NO2 is compressed the bonds that hold the Nitrogen and Oxygen atoms together break. Making Oxygen free to use in the combustion process. The more oxygen you cram in to your cylinders the more fuel you need. Other wise you will be running lean. If you run nitrous lean then you have a major melt down on your hands. Lean on nitrous can also cause severe detonation. (Breaking ring lands) That is why you would want to run a wet shot. That way when you hit the NO2 your also adding fuel. Other wise you will have to have your banshee jetted rich for normal riding around wich would hurt performance, but it would be jetted right on when your on the bottle.

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I would probably try nitrous on my red banshee if it weren't for how much methanol I would have to flow on top of how much it already guzzles when I would hit the nitrous. I'd have to run one hell of a fuel pump. ROFL might be worth trying before I go to a cub cylinder on the red bike.

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Here is the real explination. Nitrous is NO2. 1 atom of Nitrogen with 2 atoms of Oxygen. When NO2 is compressed the bonds that hold the Nitrogen and Oxygen atoms together break. Making Oxygen free to use in the combustion process. The more oxygen you cram in to your cylinders the more fuel you need. Other wise you will be running lean. If you run nitrous lean then you have a major melt down on your hands. Lean on nitrous can also cause severe detonation. (Breaking ring lands) That is why you would want to run a wet shot. That way when you hit the NO2 your also adding fuel. Other wise you will have to have your banshee jetted rich for normal riding around wich would hurt performance, but it would be jetted right on when your on the bottle.

 

Good information there. 100% accurate IMO. We need more posts like this around here. :thumbsup:

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I would probably try nitrous on my red banshee if it weren't for how much methanol I would have to flow on top of how much it already guzzles when I would hit the nitrous. I'd have to run one hell of a fuel pump. ROFL might be worth trying before I go to a cub cylinder on the red bike.

 

 

Since your already running methanol, you need to try Nitromethane. :beer:

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wet kits spray nitrous and fuel (sprayed together, nitrous is "wet") directly into the cylinders, alot more power, and less reliability (gas jet differences are usually around 4 jet sizes, alcohol are about 10 tipically *fuel being the larger jet).. electronics are needed like a fuel pump, battery ect.. you could call summit racing and have them set you up with a twin cylinder motorcycle system for about 600..

 

 

 

dry systems (boondockers) sprays nitrous into the cylinders, at the same time it bleeds pressure into the carbs forcing more fuel to flow out of the carbs. there is fuel added with the dry systems, just not directly..(hense the nitrous is "dry") also there is less power made with them, but the reliability is higher..usually only a small battery is used for the nitrous solinoid, the rest is pneumatic..

 

both systems can be used with alcohol, they just need to have much more fuel added to the system for it..

 

 

 

nitromethane is a whole different story, basically be prepared to buy a few pistons and bores before you get it right.. nitro is hard on everything, because its like spraying the motor with nitrous all the time.. being hard on the pistons and cranks.. getting nitro right will take time and tuning, you will need ALOT more fuel than methanol..

Edited by lowriderb
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I guess I dont see how forcing the carb to flow more fuel is more reliable than haveing a foger nozzle that is designed to flow fuel and NO2. That would leave me to believe that the boondockers kit would be a minimum gain. You dont see any dry kits for older cars with carburetors. If the dry system was really that effective you would be seeing them on cars with carburetors. The only systems that really work with a dry system is a fuel injected machine where the injectors add the extra fuel.

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