ellison445 Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 Very interesting Post, Hilarious yet Interesting :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: Ok, everybody knows everything; but I have 165 psi compression and a stock bottom end so BS on it comming apart. To fix your problem just turn up the idle on your carbs about 1/4 to 1/2 turn each. Next I would change my oil to a full synthetic for winter and caster 927 (smells good) for summer if you want performance. What kind of filter are you running ?/ airbox? they all come to play. I wish you lived near me I would square you up. Any one that lives in or near Virginia knows me and the power the bikes I work on yeld. My bike looks all stock but will beat just about every one here. And thats after I spot them out. Performance is tuning and tuning again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mike NY Posted February 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 Ask any engine builder and they will all tell you rpms kill cranks, not compression! At some point HP does start to come into play. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 Well, looks like you guys know it all...so, not sure why you're even still posting other than just to blah blah. Go get a 17cc dome for your head, run race gas and use your stock crank. Don't bother coming back to us with it smokes the motor, we already know it does. No one is saying it won't come apart or it will come apart with any 100% certainty. What they are telling you is why on earth would you chance it when the odds are MOST definitely stacked against you? Sure, you can play in the middle of the road in traffic for a while, but sooner or later, one day or another....you're gonna get hit. Big Mike, maybe YOUR engine builders will tell you compression doesn't kill a crank, please list him so we all know who to stay away from. Anyone on here worth their salt knows otherwise....you're really wasting our time at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Washburn Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 Mike alot of builders do know how to port bikes. But there are diffrences in building a top end dag bike and a low end Banshee. It can be done. My builder told me he will build me a 4mil stroke that runs like a 4 stroke but is still a Banshee. Thats the type of port I want. You either have to be really detailed with your builder or your builder has to know how you ride or he could just end up giving you a faster "woods port Banshee" without considering what you actualy do. There are so many ways to port a 2 stroke. Here is the scoop. Good write up by a guy who rides very close to me and Knows my builder. "on two strokes having the proper port height is the most important thing. A motor that has the roof of the exhaust and transfer ports raised a lot will be a top end only motor. Because that raises the duration, kind of like a bigger cam on a fourstroke. On a four stroke all you have to worry about when porting is trying to get as much flow as possible while still getting good velocity. On a two stroke you need to do that plus keep your port timing(or duration) in the right place for the intended rpm range desired". You still might have a chance to get it ported for more bottom end if the ports werent raised to high. That is what a low end woods port is all about. Im not knocking your builder for all I know he could be a great builder. Mabey you dident fully explain the exact type of port you wanted. There are still many ways to liven up your bottom Advance the timing mabey more than +4 but you ave to keep an eye on your motor if you do that and full race fuel is recomended that will help too. Rejet that might be it. Talk to your builder about that. A 2:1 Pipe will surley help or a set of PT mids. That will help you out the most. You have to think what is the best mod for lowend you can do on a stock bike. Pipes. Gearing down sometimes can cause more problems than help. Just weigh your options and talk to your builder again. If you do pull your motor apart again I highly sugust getting your crank tued and welded. Just look at it as added insurance that could save you 1000 dollars in the future. Think of all of that added compression on a stock crank that was only built to handle so much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 Im not knocking your builder for all I know he could be a great builder. Sorry...washburn. As soon as a builder told me I didn't need to have a crank welded unless I jump the bike alot would've left me in tears laughing right then and there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chase@miamiatv.com Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 Hey, in your title of the post you put "observations" and "comments" and that's what we're doing. If you don't want to take our advice then that's great, we're just telling you from our experiences... I still think your crank is going to separate if you have higher comp w/porting, but hey, you might have super shee for all we know. You asked for our comments and "observations" so don't get your panties in a bunch when you hear them. :beer: Also, my new trail banshee has a good amount of bottom end. My friend that rides a 450 even made the comment on how surprised he was at how hard it pulled even in the lower RPM's. They can be built. I'm still working out the bugs on mine too but it'll be a hard running machine throughout the band when I'm done I guess he will learn the hard way and make his own observations of the rods going through the cases . Sure you could do it the cheap way and not weld it man .... But you will end up spending WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY more $$$$$$$ down the road . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Washburn Posted February 8, 2007 Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 Sorry...washburn. As soon as a builder told me I didn't need to have a crank welded unless I jump the bike alot would've left me in tears laughing right then and there... Yeah I hear you, you know Ive never heard a builder recomend against getting your crank welded espically when your going to be kicking upwards of 170psi in each cylinder. He could be a good builder who doesnt know how to weld whatever the circumstances may be I seriously suguest taking that crank out and getting it welded and seeing if the ports arent raised too high to build a lower end Banshee. I just want dude to see he still has options and the only good mechanic is a mechanic who stands by his work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Duece Posted February 8, 2007 Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 Ask any engine builder and they will all tell you rpms kill cranks, not compression! At some point HP does start to come into play. damm thats good to know mike i allways thought that since i DOUBLED the downward pressure of my rods on my crank that i could twist it, going up to 180 psi in the jugs and all, i fucking wasted 50 bucks haveing my crank trued and welded, because i think stock my max rpm was like 9200(i could be wrong) and now maybe i can spin around 10K?, i sure wish you would have posted that little tid bit of infor a few years ago, hell i could have kept my stock carbs and still have my bike dyno at 82 HP, also i probally didnt need 3k in suspension either, next time you talk to your "builder" ask him whats the trick to launching a forty footer on stock suspension and not breaking your fucking neck, maybe he can recomend some kind of super duper shock cover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Duece Posted February 8, 2007 Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 (edited) (1) Ok, everybody knows everything; but I have 165 psi compression and a stock bottom end so BS on it comming apart. That comes from over-revving the bike. (2) To fix your problem just turn up the idle on your carbs about 1/4 to 1/2 turn each. Turn it up after the bike has warmed up and lisen to the engine run it'll tell you what it wants. The Idle should get a little lumpy like you have a cam in it then hold on. (3) My bike looks all stock but will beat just about every one here. And thats after I spot them out. (1) hey dante go head and explain (im kinda dumb) how the fuck do you "over rev" a fucking bike? (is that some kinda Spinal Tap shit where your throttle goes to eleven?, and mine maxes at 10) (2) if you can jett a motor by "ear" (no plug chop, no load on the engine) then id like you to autograph my bible (3) if your ever in california by all means hit me up, ill bet ya pinks i get ya by 10 bikes in a 100 yards (and ill buy the beer and tri-tip) Edited February 8, 2007 by Blue Duece Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted February 8, 2007 Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 (edited) Ok, everybody knows everything; but I have 165 psi compression and a stock bottom end so BS on it comming apart. That comes from over-revving the bike. So didn't I, for 5 years, doesn't mean it won't come apart...Its a 40% chance that it will w/ only 165psi. But the chances increase at the psi increases. If you have the motor apart, then why not weld it for 50-100 bucks and not have to worry about grenading everything you've done??? Just because you escaped death of your banshee, don't think it'll work for everyone. What if you told you friend he didn't need it, then a month later he comes back and sais the crank separated. How would you feel????? Better than that, say MIKE takes your word over ours and same thing happens, how would you feel?? Don't be taking chances on here w/ someone elses money and shee. It just shows your ignorance... To fix your problem just turn up the idle on your carbs about 1/4 to 1/2 turn each. Turn it up after the bike has warmed up and lisen to the engine run it'll tell you what it wants. The Idle should get a little lumpy like you have a cam in it then hold on. I had the same problem after I ported my bike. Next I would change my oil to a full synthetic for winter and caster 927 (smells good) for summer if you want performance. Turn the idle up until its lumpy??? What the hell does the idle have to do w/ performance???? Hell, I'm going to turn the idle up on my diesel then, instead of running 12's in the quarter mile, I'll run 10's.....The only performance gain you'll get from the idle w/ be from syncronizing them, which lumpy and synchronizing just do go together....Its like comparing vaseline and sand.... Then you say you run a full synthetic in the winter, but not the summer because you like the smell???? WTF!!!! Nice choice, why not run the full synthetic in the summer, why not run castor in the winter if it smells so good? You decide on a oil for performance and lubricating properties, not for SMELL!!! What kind of filter are you running ?/ airbox? they all come to play. I wish you lived near me I would square you up. Any one that lives in or near Virginia knows me and the power the bikes I work on yeld. My bike looks all stock but will beat just about every one here. And thats after I spot them out. Performance is tuning and tuning again. You last quote is the only thing we would both agree on...quoting your shee will take just about every one here is a tough order. Especially w/ a ported shee.... I wouldn't be saying that. I've met quite a few Hqer's here and they all have some nice setups. Wayy beyond porting. Edited February 8, 2007 by Banchetta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted February 8, 2007 Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 Ask any engine builder and they will all tell you rpms kill cranks, not compression! At some point HP does start to come into play. Just for numbers sake, not trying to bust your balls...A stock shee peaks out at 6700rpms w/ only 37hp......w/ 128psi at sea level.... Now your pushing around 60+hp at around 9000-10000rpms w/ around 185psi w/ 18cc domes at sea level....(guestimating) but will be very close....You could almost be doubling your hp mike...If you have a good dune port or topend port, you'll be around 70+hp...those are the stats, these are the numbers...I'm not making this up, maybe this is easier to understand instead of someone just telling you have to do this. Nobody has to do anything, we're just saying its cheap insurance....If a banshee came w/ a drivetrain warranty for 50 bucks for a year, wouldn't you get it?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmd0346 Posted February 8, 2007 Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 (1) hey dante go head and explain (im kinda dumb) how the fuck do you "over rev" a fucking bike? (is that some kinda Spinal Tap shit where your throttle goes to eleven?, and mine maxes at 10)(2) if you can jett a motor by "ear" (no plug chop, no load on the engine) then id like you to autograph my bible(3) if your ever in california by all means hit me up, ill bet ya pinks i get ya by 10 bikes in a 100 yards (and ill buy the beer and tri-tip) Damn I just about spit up!! LOL ".... No.. You dont undastand. Ours goes to eleven." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted February 8, 2007 Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 (1) hey dante go head and explain (im kinda dumb) how the fuck do you "over rev" a fucking bike? (is that some kinda Spinal Tap shit where your throttle goes to eleven?, and mine maxes at 10)(2) if you can jett a motor by "ear" (no plug chop, no load on the engine) then id like you to autograph my bible (3) if your ever in california by all means hit me up, ill bet ya pinks i get ya by 10 bikes in a 100 yards (and ill buy the beer and tri-tip) WOW...we go from pissing all over each other in one post.... to me agreeing with you 100% on this post. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Duece Posted February 8, 2007 Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 WOW...we go from pissing all over each other in one post.... to me agreeing with you 100% on this post. :thumbsup: thanks daj i knew we'd see eye to eye somewhere and banchetta again well said man, i dont know how you keep your cool, but you always manage too.........kudo's buddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted February 8, 2007 Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 Banchetta has been a well missed resource around here for a long time. I woke up one day and they had just about every thread in the Jetting and Exhaust forum answered, I nearly shit meself. I thought someone had hacked the account....LOL. As I said in my PM....welcome back stranger, good to have you 'round...again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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