Dgrey Posted January 13, 2007 Report Share Posted January 13, 2007 Do I need to figure out how to get the plastic chain roller piece off of the factory swing arm at the pivot point? The e bay one did not come with one. It only came with 2 washers zip tied to it. Where do those 2 washers go? Anything else that I need to know before I install this? Does anyone have any close up pictures of their e bay or similar swing arm that reuses the factory carrier???? :: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okbeast Posted January 13, 2007 Report Share Posted January 13, 2007 The only 2 washers I remember when I just had mine off were inside of the dust caps behind the rubber seal. As for the chain roller, I'd just order an aftermarket one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JET 99 Posted January 13, 2007 Report Share Posted January 13, 2007 that is part of the fine details that seem to escape the customer service part of ebay shopping.......... alot of times it is better to expect to get all new components that attach or pivot in whatever it is your replacing. unless your dealing with a person truely familar with what they are doing..... they are not going to offer or tell you what all goes on or with the part to complete it.. clymers and a little bit of reading will save you alot of :: in the long run........ (look at parts diagram and see what all is in that assy) it may be aftermarket but it still has to do the same function or action (hopefully better) hope you catch what im saying, just my 2 pennies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOTD Posted January 13, 2007 Report Share Posted January 13, 2007 (edited) I bought the same ebay swinger from CFM, who is a member here. There are a few differences in this swinger than stock. So you will want to get an aftermarket slider. RMATV has the Modquad one for $25. The new swinger crosstube diameter is smaller than the stock cross tube. You will see this when installing the bearing seals. Now they are no longer a functioning seal. Go figure :thumbsup: ! The two washers you got are for shimming the top carrier bolt. Make sure the bolt holes line up for the lower chain guide. Mine were about 1/4 inch too close to eachother, so any lower guide I use will have to be drilled out. Nice huh? I must have got one of those "blems" he was trying to sell on here. I sent a PM to CFM about it, which he did read, but he never replied. Edited January 13, 2007 by DOTD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dgrey Posted January 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2007 (edited) I bought the same ebay swinger from CFM, who is a member here. There are a few differences in this swinger than stock. So you will want to get an aftermarket slider. RMATV has the Modquad one for $25. The new swinger crosstube diameter is smaller than the stock cross tube. You will see this when installing the bearing seals. Now they are no longer a functioning seal. Go figure :thumbsup: ! The two washers you got are for shimming the top carrier bolt. Make sure the bolt holes line up for the lower chain guide. Mine were about 1/4 inch too close to eachother, so any lower guide I use will have to be drilled out. Nice huh? I must have got one of those "blems" he was trying to sell on here. I sent a PM to CFM about it, which he did read, but he never replied. Okay so I have it completely bolted up including shock just the axel and carrier are sitting to the side. DO I need to be concerned about the fact that the bearing seals are not functional anymore even though they fit over the (what im going to call 'pivot point') where the long bolt goes through the frame and the swing arm? They fit pretty good on there. Do you recommend a better type of seal like this? The bolt holes on the chine guide did line up so no extra drilling required there. Thank god. Its cold as fu*k out there and I have no heater outside. I still have to go back outside to reinstall the axel and carrier. Hopefully no more drama. Now my keyboard is all greasy. Does anyone know the torque spec on the pivot point long bolt that goes through the frame and the swing arm? I just tightened the crap out of it so would you say that is good enough? I did, however, have to use an impact wrench to get it off, but I dont want to strip it out by using it to put it on. Okay hopefully there are some replies to this before I get back. Im going to get beer anyone need anything? :thumbsup: Much needed. Probably some sierra nevada. Mmmmm sierra nevadaaaa Droooollllllllll Edited January 13, 2007 by Dgrey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dgrey Posted January 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2007 Okay well I keep plugin away at it and get the top carrier bolt in and the nut on its just not fully tight. So now im running into drama with placing the axel ajustment pieces in. I can get ONE of them in but there is no room for the other one. What the hell is the problem? Is the swing arm a piece of crap or what? What do you suggest I do? My above questions still also stand. What is the fastest way I could order an extended brake line for the rear? :: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dgrey Posted January 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2007 Here is the picture of what i am dealing with. Camera phone picture sorry for the crapy quality!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dgrey Posted January 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2007 Okay so after much drama I got the entire unit in by myself. im going to sleep now BUT can someone PLEASE tell me how the axel needs to be adjusted. From what I am seeing it does not really matter how it is adjusted. The only thing I can see is that how it is adjusted affects brake line length. Is there something else I need to worry about. Please help Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOTD Posted January 13, 2007 Report Share Posted January 13, 2007 From that pic you have that adjuster inside out. Turn it around so the marks are to the inside. Then you can line them up on the carrier so both sides are even. Not sure what you mean about how adjusting will affect the brake line length. It should not move that much, because as you tighten up the chain slack the carrier will pivot upwards. Post a pic of the whole swinger so we can see if you have it on correctly. I found a guy on ebay that makes steel braided lines any length for pretty cheap. His id is: jeff89120. The line is very well built and shipping was really fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CFM Posted January 13, 2007 Report Share Posted January 13, 2007 DOTD, Sorry boss, I've got like 40 something PM's in there. I read that you had modified it so I skiped over it... Would you like me to send a new chain guide for the inconvience??? And yes, there was about 20 of those brackets drilled .125 off.... though I caught them all before welding... Had a couple others, but I modified new guides and mounted/threw them in for free since they had already been coated. Let me know, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dgrey Posted January 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2007 Okay so the adjustment on the rear of the stock carrier only adjust chain tention? If that is the case then im good. Thanks for the advice. I turned the adjuster piece around like you said. good call. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted January 16, 2007 Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 The only 2 washers I remember when I just had mine off were inside of the dust caps behind the rubber seal. As for the chain roller, I'd just order an aftermarket one. Bingo.....how big are the washers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kfngrn Posted January 31, 2007 Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 I got a swing arm off ebay that looks alot like your guys. I have had mine for 2 or 3 years my buddy bought one too they were $125 for +4. When I installed mine the sleave that goes into the bearings for the swing arm piviot would not go in because to pipe was bent almost 1/8" off! I had on hard time tring to get it to line up finally did but it wears out bearings quick, seals may have something to do with it too. My buddies swing arm kept cracking at the pipe that the shock link hooks too. He welded it up several times and then had to put brackets on it but it still cracked. He finally went out and but a different one. You get what you pay for I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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