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can you use a cub on trails


g_low0885

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I've ridden my Cub in trails, it's just not fun :banghead: , and your riding on a bunch of money you don't get to enjoy; but it's worth it to go on a few trips to wide open areas or dirt drags occasionally. I ride my YFZ in the trails mostly and leave the Cub parked until I go somewhere else. 4-stroke + Cub= best of both worlds to me!! :biggrin:

 

 

My thoughts exactly!!!

 

My 10 mil will never see trails, just like the 450 I'll buy one of these days will never see the drag strip. (It may see dunes if and when I pop the motor on my 10 mil, though...:) )

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Kinda like fireman-hott I have spent a LOT of money and time trying all kinds of different combos. My thread would be pretty much like his, and longer... if I listed everything I've tried, trying to find what I'm happy with. It all comes down to personal experience, and what you think you are capable of riding and doing with your bike. If you think you can handle trails with a cub, go for it. But at least ride a cub before you try and build one for trails.

 

I had a decked cub basically set up to de-tune it. Yeah, it was fun and moved the powerband more into the midrange instead of all on top, but it still hit harder than I would ever want to try and deal with for any kinda trail riding. That was with T5's and 33's. and I only had a +4 swinger and that was a 4mil! It would wheelie all over the place, which was handy when you're on a trail and need to pop over an obstacle. But the problem was... when you would open it up and hook up, you'd take off so damn fast you would be headed right into the next obstacle and have to shut it down and lay into the brakes. I didn't like it. It was too much power all at once.

 

Like I say all the time... Too Much of the Wrong Kinda Power. Build it for what you have in mind, don't build something that's more at home in a totally different "climate" and try and make it work where you want to ride. I wouldn't try and dune-ride a drag bike (well, actually I probably would, LOL) or do MX on a drag bike, nor would I try and drag race with a trail bike. Build it for what you want to do with it.

 

My personal view on things... A Cub is a horrible choice for trails, even if you "de-tune" the thing. Which is defeating the purpose of it. Why spend $900-1000 for a set of cylinders to turn around and fuck with them to try and change how they were designed to run. Spend that money on porting that does what you want and you will be a lot happier.

 

JMO

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Well at least I'm not the only one that can pull it off. Tweak some things and you wont have to guess what it is gonna do out there.

 

Nice to see at least someone doesn't keep up rehtoric that doesn't have to do with the topic at hand.

I was thinking wouldn't the motor is a Rally car be something thats pushing crazy HP compared with what its actually gonna use? Kind of like the cub in the trails. Take the power and manipulate it to do what you want it to do and not what it wants to do.

 

The advantage I see and why I would recommend it to an average rider is at some point they will want more power. Now they could buy a used cub top end on the higher side of some good ported cylinders and already have the power they will want years or months later. Than get the pipes, get some domes cut specifically for low end(Nate McCoy made an excellent set for me), 2 into 1 pipe (and you thought I was crazy before) dual 33's to feed the beast, and you might just be surprised. You definately will not get the 80-90hp most cubs get, but it will be widely more adaptable to any riding situation than one running all top end modifications.

Which I would have a set of top end only pipes and maybe even some domes with a lower (165-175) compression to swap out when you are heading to the dunes. Keep closer to 190-200psi domes for the trails to grab the extra low end. GOTTA RUN STRAIGHT RACE GAS 104+.

 

WHen you are riding see what shee is doing, are you spinning a shitload? Up from front sprocket a tooth. Too much and killing your bottom end, drop down a tooth and add 2 teeth in the rear. Tire sizes make a huge difference too. every 2" is roughly equal to going up one tooth on your front sprocket. Keep that in mind if you buy 20"s and cant figure out why its bogging unlike when you had 18"s on it. Know what type of tread hooks up the best in the terrain you are running. For me Razr 1's hooked easily twice as good as the holeshot mx's Dont ask me why they just did.

 

If all you ride are tight trails dont go over on your swingarm it will kill some of your manuevarability(sp?). If you are strong and not just think you are, and can handle the clutch properly, the throttle properly, feel the bike and make adjustments in a flash I would dare say go -2. Thats just me and what I did and could handle. That even I will admit is crazy and off the wall. but I could handle it and for the trails I was the only shee that could go in certain areas because of the turning radius I could pull. Oh and how much better it was in the air is mind blowing. but that is beside the point.

 

Do what you think you can handle, and what your pocketbook can handle.

 

Yeas I spent ten of thousands. It wasn't into one motor or suspension etc. I could have built 3 or 4 shees with all the shit I had bought. But eventually I found what I wanted and could have saved thousands if someone had told me I could have the power and have fun with it too.

Chris

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Its kind of like beating a dead horse. Its been done before, but we still enjoy beating the stupid thing.

 

This topic comes up every couple months and each time we all get in here and add more crap. Its fun I think. I get a kick reading it every time...

 

:biggrin: :thumbsup:

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I was actually thinking about this last night over a few beers and a game of darts...here's what I would do.

 

Get a good strong dune port and the proper equipment to support it (pipes, carbs, etc.)

 

Then, get an extra set of carbs to run alky on.

 

Alky can give you 10 to 20% increase in performance if it's tuned right. A good dune port is 70HP or so...

A stock stroke 65mm bore cub is probably in the 85HP range or so, on gas tuned right.

 

Put some alky on it when you want to dune and drag race...and you should hang with a good tuned small cub motor.

Plus, you'll have a way more usable motor when you switch it all back to gas...

 

How's that strike ya?

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I was actually thinking about this last night over a few beers and a game of darts...here's what I would do.

 

Get a good strong dune port and the proper equipment to support it (pipes, carbs, etc.)

 

Then, get an extra set of carbs to run alky on.

 

Alky can give you 10 to 20% increase in performance if it's tuned right. A good dune port is 70HP or so...

A stock stroke 65mm bore cub is probably in the 85HP range or so, on gas tuned right.

 

Put some alky on it when you want to dune and drag race...and you should hang with a good tuned small cub motor.

Plus, you'll have a way more usable motor when you switch it all back to gas...

 

How's that strike ya?

LOL, I'll make it easy for everyone>>>

 

Cub=drag

Mild port=trail/dune

Edited by jankab
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opinions are like ass holes, everyones got one! let the kid spend his money on a cub and detune it. I am sure a builder would just love to take 1500.00 of his money rather than 300.00-500.00! I get so sick of these questions seems alot of people want to build a drag bike but they still want to lug it through the trails. it dont work! I started out like this, then I bought drag pipes, then a lock up then an over ride then alky. now looking back it would have been much cheaper just to build the drag bike and buy a trail bike, rather than buy a bunch of parts, use them for a little while then turn right back around and sell them in order to buy more drag parts.

 

Its your bike man do what you want with it. but remember to build it for how and where you ride it the most! you will be much happier in the long run. Oh and no matter how had you try, there will always be some one faster! its just a fact of life

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i have a cub with ,4mil long rod, 34 kunis, straight cuts, hinsonbasket, lockup, 17,39 gearing,+6 swinger,tdr head with 190lbs comp. cpi pipes

 

i mainly asphalt drag but i dont have any problems with it in the trails the thig is a torque monster

 

i think when you put 38 carbs and something like shearer pipes is when all that bottom end goes away

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Ok, I admit it, way back when 4-11-05, when the cubs were first introduced I did the unthinkable and posted a thread called "R Cheetah cubs trail friendly", and if you have been on here a while you may have remembered this. It had 3581 hits, 118 posts, and consists of 8 pages, so when they say this thread is a dead horse, I think you dug it back up for us to beat again................. :yelrotflmao:

 

You can go back and see if any opinions have changed, but my point is that this has been an ongoing debate since they first hit the scene and only a few people on here had them. Now I think there are hundreds and I wont even get started on the amount over at planet sand. The bottom line is if you want to spend that kind of money then do it, if you don't like then sell it, I'm sure there are people on here that will buy it. Or it may be just what you were looking for, but you will never know until you try it. You do need to go and do the research though, and do a search on here for cubs and see the 100 or so threads on the issue.

 

Good luck man.............. :thumbsup:

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Ok, I admit it, way back when 4-11-05, when the cubs were first introduced I did the unthinkable and posted a thread called "R Cheetah cubs trail friendly", and if you have been on here a while you may have remembered this. It had 3581 hits, 118 posts, and consists of 8 pages, so when they say this thread is a dead horse, I think you dug it back up for us to beat again................. :yelrotflmao:

 

You can go back and see if any opinions have changed, but my point is that this has been an ongoing debate since they first hit the scene and only a few people on here had them. Now I think there are hundreds and I wont even get started on the amount over at planet sand. The bottom line is if you want to spend that kind of money then do it, if you don't like then sell it, I'm sure there are people on here that will buy it. Or it may be just what you were looking for, but you will never know until you try it. You do need to go and do the research though, and do a search on here for cubs and see the 100 or so threads on the issue.

 

Good luck man.............. :thumbsup:

 

Maybe I like beating dead horses. :yelrotflmao:

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you could ride a cub on trails just fine. when trail riding the limitation is NOT youre motor, its youre suspsension plus rider stamina and skill level. ive ridden with other banshee owners who had everything from dune ported stockers to cubs and even a full blown cheetah with powervalves. honestly all of us are about equal in speed because when we trail ride it doesnt matter what engine you have you can only corner so fast and you can only take bumps and jumps so fast.

doesnt matter if you have a stock motor with stock pipes or a powervalve cheetah and cpi's, the limitation is in the suspension and the rider not the engine.

 

so basically a cub isnt worth it for trail riding. the power is kind of wasted because when trail riding youre never at full throttle anyways. hell porting for trail riding is almost a waste. a banshee is a banshee. focus on suspension and practice rather than the engine.

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