Welders

[Animalman294]

Yeah, I learned how to weld on my dads old miller stick welder that he got in 1967, and it works just as good as it did when he got it. It sucks cleanin' up the slag, but I can do a pretty good weld, except for welding over my head upside down (now thats an artform). I've tried to use a wire feed, but I make more of a mess than I do anything else, so I go back to the stick welder. I guess I just need more practice with the wire feed and the tig............... :thumbsup:

[BrianEb]

Welders were do you look for jigs to make Chassis, Swing Arms and A-Arms ect.

Like in the Lonestar Catalog they show a frame in some sort of jig.

Are those jigs custome made

[racer]

NOTE: notice the first 2 numbers of each rod...denotes the strength. 6011= 60,000 Lbs tensile strength, 7018= 70,000 Lbs tensile strength. The last 2 numbers of each are the rod coatings.

Partially true. The reading goes like this for a E10016-D2. E is for electrode, 100 is for minimum tensile strength in KPSI. The second (1) is for welding position, and the (16) is for polarity and special notes. While the (D2) indicates alloying elements.

 

When it comes to positions the numbers go:

1) All positions

2) Flat welding and horizontal fillet welds

3) Flat only

4) Flat, horizontal, overhead, or vertical down.

[racer]

Are those jigs custome made

More than likely.

[jayzx10r]

Partially true. The reading goes like this for a E10016-D2. E is for electrode, 100 is for minimum tensile strength in KPSI. The second (1) is for welding position, and the (16) is for polarity and special notes. While the (D2) indicates alloying elements.

 

When it comes to positions the numbers go:

1) All positions

2) Flat welding and horizontal fillet welds

3) Flat only

4) Flat, horizontal, overhead, or vertical down.

 

I was just trying to keep it simple for someone that is new to welding that would probably pick up welding rod at Home Depot or a similar store that would order rod by the 4 number index. For most garage mechaincs that stick weld, I think the only two rods you need are:

 

(1) 6011. 6011 welding rods have all the characteristics of 6010, are used in all positions with AC or DC current, and work well on all types of regular or mild steel + burns through paint and grease. One negative aspect is the slag is harder to remove .

 

(2) 7018. 7018 low-hy, low penetration, on all positions, with AC or DC current. Use the highest amp setting as practical. Use a straightforward "drag" progression with a "short arc." The low moisture make-up of this welding rod reduces chemical reactions in the weld itself and makes for the highest quality x-ray perfect welds. (Note - this electrode must be kept dry. If it's exposed to humid air or gets damp it must be dried in a rod oven before use. Just toss it in the oven at 500 for an hour and it's good to go. Leaves a nice smooth weld with easy to remove slag.

 

If this is your profession, you know the higher level specs of your trade. But if you are a garage mechanic type (as what started this thread) I think this is your basic setup rod for getting started inexpensively is with a stick welding rig...and a Miller 225 Thunderbolt!!

 

Or for a "From The Book" answer to ELECTRODE IDENTIFICATION:

 

Arc welding electrodes are identified using the A.W.S, (American Welding Society) numbering system and are made in sizes from 1/16 to 5/16 . An example would be a welding rod identified as an 1/8" E6011 electrode.

 

The electrode is 1/8" in diameter

 

The "E" stands for arc welding electrode.

 

Next will be either a 4 or 5 digit number stamped on the electrode. The first two numbers of a 4 digit number and the first 3 digits of a 5 digit number indicate the minimum tensile strength (in thousands of pounds per square inch) of the weld that the rod will produce, stress relieved. Examples would be as follows:

 

E60xx would have a tensile strength of 60,000 psi E110XX would be 110,000 psi

 

The next to last digit indicates the position the electrode can be used in.

 

1. EXX1X is for use in all positions

2. EXX2X is for use in flat and horizontal positions

3. EXX3X is for flat welding

 

The last two digits together, indicate the type of coating on the electrode and the welding current the electrode can be used with. Such as DC straight, (DC -) DC reverse (DC+) or A.C.

 

So after all this....I think we agree!! :beer: But I have to admit...I don't know what a D2 designation is!!

 

Hope this Helps...

Jay From SanD iego

Edited February 1, 2007 by jayzx750

[headsup]

i was wondering wut would be a good welder to start learing how... witch would be the easiest and cheapest

If you can afford one, a inverter welder 200 amp is a very stable arc to learn on. It only weights 21lbs and is 100 percent duty cycle at 120 amps and 60 percent at 200 amps.It also can be used as G.T.A.W. or tig torch. chicago electric.I paid 499 on sale.