jankab Posted December 15, 2006 Report Share Posted December 15, 2006 so what happends after you weld your crank then sal a year down the road it needs to be rebuilt how would you go about getting it rebuilt or is it cheaoer to just get a whole new crank You just grind the weld, take it apart and reassemble and reweld Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted December 16, 2006 Report Share Posted December 16, 2006 You just grind the weld, take it apart and reassemble and reweld I would just press it apart in our hydraulic press. Then re-weld it when i put it back together. - Jared Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hollisatp Posted April 3, 2007 Report Share Posted April 3, 2007 how do you true the weld? I got a guy that is very experienced that could help me... How do you know its trued? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted August 18, 2007 Report Share Posted August 18, 2007 I want to know the same thing. What surfaces do you indicate on? How do you check the phase? Why are boobs good? haha. But seriously I would like to know the first two things. I'm a machinist with access to a well tooled shop so anything of that nature is a non-issue, I just need to know where to put the indicator stylus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 Come on guys.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted August 20, 2007 Report Share Posted August 20, 2007 I want to know the same thing. What surfaces do you indicate on? How do you check the phase? Why are boobs good? haha. But seriously I would like to know the first two things. I'm a machinist with access to a well tooled shop so anything of that nature is a non-issue, I just need to know where to put the indicator stylus. 1.) No one is keying the pins. 2.) Checking the phase is very simple. In fact you can do it while you are trueing the crank (I know I explained how to do that to you before, Cole). You need a degree wheel ( print one out of the internert and tape/glue it to a piece of ally) which you need to index to a feature on the crankshaft (preferably thew axial center line of a pin). Then it's a simple matter of touching off a pin and rolling the crank over on its mains (snout and flange on a balancing stand or chucked in to a lathe) and subtraction the diameter of one pin. This will then give you the total degrees between pin center. 3.) If you don't know why boobs are good, I can't help you. I cannot think of any case where boobs would not help a situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted August 20, 2007 Report Share Posted August 20, 2007 (edited) 2.) Checking the phase is very simple. In fact you can do it while you are trueing the crank (I know I explained how to do that to you before, Cole). You need a degree wheel ( print one out of the internert and tape/glue it to a piece of ally) which you need to index to a feature on the crankshaft (preferably thew axial center line of a pin). Then it's a simple matter of touching off a pin and rolling the crank over on its mains (snout and flange on a balancing stand or chucked in to a lathe) and subtraction the diameter of one pin. This will then give you the total degrees between pin center. That is what I needed, thanks Mark. I went and reread over the posts about truing in a lathe, and it's something I can definitely do. I am just getting around to it because splitting my case isn't an everyday occurrence. Now about the degree wheel, I can't touch off on a pin because the rods are on there. Are there any other suitable places? Edited August 20, 2007 by gimmeabeer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted August 20, 2007 Report Share Posted August 20, 2007 That is what I needed, thanks Mark. I went and reread over the posts about truing in a lathe, and it's something I can definitely do. I am just getting around to it because splitting my case isn't an everyday occurrence. Now about the degree wheel, I can't touch off on a pin because the rods are on there. Are there any other suitable places? The surface plate and v-blocks will do the trick as long as the v-blocks are not homemade trurds or have been beat on like Ike beat Tina. With regard on what you can touch off, it's basically got to be a pin. However if you have some v-style feeler gauges, you could swipe one from the set and solder it to the removable portion of the stylus on the dial indicator. I know its a bit of scince project to make a tool, but if your pins don't have centers drilled in the ends of them, then you don't have much choice. .................oh yeah, and what do you mean you don't make splitting your cases an everyday occurence? I thought everyone was like BigRed and simply used it as an excuse to drink beer. :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted August 20, 2007 Report Share Posted August 20, 2007 I thought everyone was like BigRed and simply used it as an excuse to drink beer. :biggrin: Who needs an excuse? ha. Ya, no centers drilled in the pins for me. Shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted August 20, 2007 Report Share Posted August 20, 2007 Who needs an excuse? ha. Ya, no centers drilled in the pins for me. Shit. The little measuring tool modification should work fine, but there is some added effort involved in buying a new stylus and feeler gauge, and then of course putting it together. If I get a chance today, I will stare at a picture of a Banshee cranks and see if I can think of another way to do things that would be easier in your situation. :geek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted August 21, 2007 Report Share Posted August 21, 2007 so what happends after you weld your crank then sal a year down the road it needs to be rebuilt how would you go about getting it rebuilt or is it cheaoer to just get a whole new crank You just buy my used one I put up for sale But yea they can be more expensive to re-build than to replace... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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