chevy7398 Posted December 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2006 Your going to love this. You have to tear the bottom end appart. Pull the crank out, take the pto gear off and swap seals. You pretty much have to split the cases because the seal is sandwitched between the case halfs. ya that is super, can i change the crank bearings my self or do i need to take it somewhere? also is there anything else i shoud check or change while im in there since this will be the second time i have had to take the motor out of the frame and stil havent goten to ride : ( i found a complete set of seals for the bottom end at albe but does anyone no of anyone with a complete set of bearings?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted December 5, 2006 Report Share Posted December 5, 2006 I cant remember if they are pressed on or not. I want to say that they are but I am not 100% sure on that one. It would be a good idea to have them changed while your in there. Is your crank welded? That would be another good thing to have done while it is out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atvaddiction Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 did u get the cases sealed good when u put it back together?? and also check the seals sometimes the springs come off the seal and that can cause some problems so i would check those to thing if i was you... but it could be the float bowls too as was mentioned earlier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheefreak Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 It's not the float bowls. Too much fuel does not cause oil to spew out the exhaust pipe. Chevy, when you pull that pipe off, be ready, oil will dump out of it. Since you are going to be in the bottom end, I would as well suggest to weld and true the crank. Whoever you send it to for that can swap out bearings for you if necessary. If you plan on adding some major power down the road, you may as well pay the extra money and get the TZ and maxload bearings, or 2 TZ's if you really want insurance. I don't know of a bearing kit, but just check them all for smooth operation. Replace as necessary. I would also think about replacing the plastic impeller w/billet and possibly a pancake bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevy7398 Posted December 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 It's not the float bowls. Too much fuel does not cause oil to spew out the exhaust pipe. Chevy, when you pull that pipe off, be ready, oil will dump out of it. Since you are going to be in the bottom end, I would as well suggest to weld and true the crank. Whoever you send it to for that can swap out bearings for you if necessary. If you plan on adding some major power down the road, you may as well pay the extra money and get the TZ and maxload bearings, or 2 TZ's if you really want insurance. I don't know of a bearing kit, but just check them all for smooth operation. Replace as necessary. I would also think about replacing the plastic impeller w/billet and possibly a pancake bearing. ya when i pulled the pipe of a good amount ran out of it,pulled everthing of the side to se the bearing and erything looks good it must just be worn and leaking, my rod play is just enough to still be in spec but worn enough to get it done now, lowest cost for a rebuild kit for the crank 291 bucks plus lowest labor to rebuild it minus true and weld 120 bucks, so i am just going to get a new crankshaft, is it true i can get a hot rods crank trued and welded already for 400 bucks from fast? saw it on the site but seems to good to be true Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Money Pit Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 both of my carb bowls are labeled 1-1, but one has a copper ball very small near the bottom what side does that one go on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevy7398 Posted December 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 both of my carb bowls are labeled 1-1, but one has a copper ball very small near the bottom what side does that one go on. im pretty sure they will only go on the correct carb due to the copper tube that stcks out of the bowl, though i am not sure, when i took mine apart i did them one at a time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheefreak Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 both of my carb bowls are labeled 1-1, but one has a copper ball very small near the bottom what side does that one go on. Not sure how this question came up on this thread, but anyway... The bowls will bolt to either carb. I can't remember which has the ball but I want to say it is the right side bowl. To check though, spray some carb cleaner down the hole(in the bowls)that the copper tube would fit into. If it sprays out somewhere else, that is the bowl that goes on the choke pull side. The other bowl will spit the carb cleaner right back in your face, so whatch out! :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 is it true i can get a hot rods crank trued and welded already for 400 bucks from fast? saw it on the site but seems to good to be true Yea that sounds about right. That is just for the crank shaft. Hot Rods come welded but no the best. Have jeff at fast put down some extra weld. Ever thought about going with a +4mm long rod stroker. Might as well since your going to be replacing the crank anyway. Call Jeff at FAST good guy to deal with and he will discuse all the options. josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTOYS Posted December 7, 2006 Report Share Posted December 7, 2006 The carb bowl with the little BB goes on the Choke Knob (left side) carb!! It will be very hard to start cold if switched to the other side!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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