Satsol67 Posted November 27, 2006 Report Share Posted November 27, 2006 Does anyone have the X-33 Axle? I am having a problem with mine. When I bought my shee it had one on it and the left hub was loose so i bought 2 more. Damn things were 187 bucks for the set. That was about 6 months ago. I had to keep tighting it up because it would keep coming loose now it is starting to crack were the bolt holds it on. My question is am I the only one having this problem? Is this just a shitty axle? I looked on Dura Blue's site and they talk about them coming loose and to use lock tight which I did. Is there anything else I can do. These things cost to much to have to replace them this often. Thanks Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hollister_Hitman Posted November 27, 2006 Report Share Posted November 27, 2006 The hubs come loose or the axle nuts? torque it to specs also helps if you haven't tried that. If the hubs come loose can you use cotter pins? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satsol67 Posted November 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2006 its the hubs that come loose. they have the bolt that goes throught the middle of them thats how the stay on no splines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hollister_Hitman Posted November 27, 2006 Report Share Posted November 27, 2006 Oh, I didn;t know that. That is weird. I would just use red loctite and torq it to specs. You should go look at atvriders.com Chances are there are hundreds of people over there that have these axles even if they aren't on banshees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMoore Posted January 15, 2007 Report Share Posted January 15, 2007 Sorry to hear about your hub problems. I broke an X-33 on a 40 foot double, the same jump I had taken many many times with my stock axle. It was under warranty, but Durablue didn't have a replacement on hand, I would have had to wait 3 weeks to get a replacement. I didn't really want another 'snapper' anyway so, I sent the broken one in on trade for a Eliminator. I used it for a while, and the splines twisted on one wheel. I sent that one back for replacement, and just used the stock axle. BTW this is on a 1999 400EX that has been beat like a dog and the stock axle is still straight. I have a brand spanking new Eliminator sitting here that I won't use. That said, I am willing to bet that if you have never bent your stock axle, it will outlast a Durablue product! I got a Lonestar axle (axcaliber, I think) for my 'shee and have had no problems with it. I don't race the Banshee however. The Durablue axles both failed under racing conditions (I am an amateur). Maybe, you could have the bolts "knurled" so they will fit tighter in the hole. If the holes have elongated, you might have to have them re-drilled to round them out, and install new bolts that fit perfectly. I would have a machine shop drill it (if they will do it at all). The axle is going to be pretty hard, so they will need to go really, really slow. They should know how to drill it. Removing material from the axle will weaken it (of course) so you will want to carefully consider before doing it. I think though, that if you could get a perfect fit on the bolt pin, it will help a lot. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
differentstrokes Posted January 15, 2007 Report Share Posted January 15, 2007 I personally have an LSR, but while I was shopping for one I talked to Santo Derisi and he said to stay away from durablue because they break easily. He has his own suspension business so I'll take his word. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RNBRAD Posted January 18, 2007 Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 I personally have an LSR, but while I was shopping for one I talked to Santo Derisi and he said to stay away from durablue because they break easily. He has his own suspension business so I'll take his word. And he uses RPM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted January 18, 2007 Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 Have the hole reamed a specific arbitrary size and then use a turned dowel of a nice hard steel. maybe 4340, then HT? That should keep your tolerance in very close. That being said, a new axle would more than likely be cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samdust Posted January 18, 2007 Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 ive heard nothing but bad news on dura blue axels :: so im looking at getting a rpm axel when i get my income tax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted January 19, 2007 Report Share Posted January 19, 2007 also, they do have the nick name, bendy blue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted January 22, 2007 Report Share Posted January 22, 2007 (edited) also, they do have the nick name, bendy blue. LOL, if your on a budget get a G-force, they are better than Bendy Blue and have a better warranty (Lifetime jsut like LSR, not replace once or is it twice BS). I flipped my bike end over end and totaled my frame, but it held up fine, although usualy axles break / bend when landing on one rear wheel before the other, not from flipping end over end . Going wider makes the strain on the part much higher, just as you can get more torque by prying with a longer lever as opposed to a short one. Still though most people with G-force Axles are happy with them, and they are also WAY cheaper as well! That 40 foot double must have HURT! Edited January 22, 2007 by Justintoxicated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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