dajogejr Posted December 1, 2006 Report Share Posted December 1, 2006 I rode it hard and put mine away wet for 3 years. After that...I just offed it for my next project, and never gave the tranny any thought. I wasn't about to split the cases...the bike was about 10 years old when I got rid of it. I honestly would say this....there's two ways to think about it. If there's little or no gap between the reeds and cage, you really don't have to change 'em. However, as you pointed out...the whole top end had to come off to service them...so, it's off now. I think you can get boysen reeds for that for about 25 to 30 bucks. To be honest, I'd spend it just for piece of mind...but that's me. Will you notice a performance gain? well...you never rode the bike before...so, who's to tell? I think for the small amount of money multiplied by how much effort it'd be to replace 'em...yeah, I'd buy new. You won't make a rocket out of it by reeds alone, but...piece of mind has a price, too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toybreaker Posted December 1, 2006 Report Share Posted December 1, 2006 looks like youll need to rebuild the crank,looks like alot of side to side slop in the rod.But for 125 bucks you cant beat it. the bad thing about the suzuki is the side to side play is regulated by 2 hardened washers that are held in place by the piston pin. If your trans and crank are toast give me a pm i have a COMPLETE 86 250 that is usable for parts. I am sure if i cared i could bore the cylinder and have a complete spare. I have an 85 and an 87 lt as well as 2 banshee's if you need any info on yours or more tips send me a pm I'll give you all the info i can. For $125 i am VERY jealous. Just the swinger and rear brake caliper will net you over $125 on fleabay A LIST OF STUFF I FEEL LIKE I NEED TO BUY FOR THIS PROJECT - Case gasket set $20 -New rod bearing $18 -New piston $78 (wiseco) -New wheel bearings $38 for all -New control cables $50-80 -Swing arm bearings $40 -Ancillary crap $100 don't forget piston pin bearing and washers oh and Bills pipes made a pipe for this bike. Not sure if they still do But i have one on my '85 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ojcool Posted December 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2006 the bad thing about the suzuki is the side to side play is regulated by 2 hardened washers that are held in place by the piston pin. If your trans and crank are toast give me a pm i have a COMPLETE 86 250 that is usable for parts. I am sure if i cared i could bore the cylinder and have a complete spare. I have an 85 and an 87 lt as well as 2 banshee's if you need any info on yours or more tips send me a pm I'll give you all the info i can. For $125 i am VERY jealous. Just the swinger and rear brake caliper will net you over $125 on fleabay A LIST OF STUFF I FEEL LIKE I NEED TO BUY FOR THIS PROJECT - Case gasket set $20 -New rod bearing $18 -New piston $78 (wiseco) -New wheel bearings $38 for all -New control cables $50-80 -Swing arm bearings $40 -Ancillary crap $100 don't forget piston pin bearing and washers oh and Bills pipes made a pipe for this bike. Not sure if they still do But i have one on my '85 Ok, so there are no washers on the crank journal with the big end of the rod. I guess whoever worked on this bike must have pressed the pin out of the crank journal and never replaced the washers. So, what does this mean for me? I do have access to an arbor press, however, is this something I can fix properly without jigs ect.???? So, if not I guess I'm in the market for a whole crank, rod setup for this bike. I have also measured the bore of the jug and it's obviously been bored at least twice. I'm getting 2.810 " of course cause I don't have a metric micrometer. 71.374 MM converted. So I'm getting .040 over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toybreaker Posted December 2, 2006 Report Share Posted December 2, 2006 the washers go up at the top of the rod between the piston and pin bearing. http://216.37.204.206/alba/Suzuki_OEM/Suzu...mp;A=1&B=46 check that out. you need to replace or buy new part number 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgty3whlr Posted December 2, 2006 Report Share Posted December 2, 2006 (edited) I would go with the boyeesen dual stage reeds. Also if you are going to rebulid your crank, which it sounds like you are going to do, use the 87-92 rod. It will make it into a "Long rod" motor. I can give you more info on what to do for that. It will give you more torque. I had an AAEN pipe on my 86 LT I had years ago. By far the best pipe for that year. I called AAEN some time ago and they said that they still had the templates to make this pipe. however you had to pay for the pipe in advance. If I remember it was around $250. I am currently running a DG pipe, which I think sucks for the power potential . You won't be getting a 1,000 h.p. out of this design motor but you can get some gains that are definitely noticable. Edited December 2, 2006 by mgty3whlr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted December 2, 2006 Report Share Posted December 2, 2006 I would go with the boyeesen dual stage reeds. Also if you are going to rebulid your crank, which it sounds like you are going to do, use the 87-92 rod. It will make it into a "Long rod" motor. I can give you more info on what to do for that. It will give you more torque. I had an AAEN pipe on my 86 LT I had years ago. By far the best pipe for that year. I called AAEN some time ago and they said that they still had the templates to make this pipe. however you had to pay for the pipe in advance. If I remember it was around $250. I am currently running a DG pipe, which I think sucks for the power potential . You won't be getting a 1,000 h.p. out of this design motor but you can get some gains that are definitely noticable. Had the AAEN on mine as well...Loved it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ojcool Posted December 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2006 Heres a vid of the crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toybreaker Posted December 2, 2006 Report Share Posted December 2, 2006 the side to side play is normal. the side thrust is managed by the shim/washers i showed you in the link above. If the rod bearing has a ton of play up and down you need to replace it. If you are the do it right since it is out, get it rebuilt or buy a new one. I have run boyeson and stock reeds. No difference in output. couldn't tell any difference in the throttle response either. It ran 10.40 in the 1/8 mile on asphalt regardless. Stock ones are steel i ended up putting them back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ojcool Posted December 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2006 the side to side play is normal. the side thrust is managed by the shim/washers i showed you in the link above. If the rod bearing has a ton of play up and down you need to replace it. If you are the do it right since it is out, get it rebuilt or buy a new one. I have run boyeson and stock reeds. No difference in output. couldn't tell any difference in the throttle response either. It ran 10.40 in the 1/8 mile on asphalt regardless. Stock ones are steel i ended up putting them back in. Well, the link also showed washers in the crank journal with the rod. There are no washers on the crank I have... Heres the deal with this bike. They guy I bought it from bought it from some guy for $150 and he had supposedly put a new jug and piston in it. Well the guy brought it home and rode it once and it started knocking. So he parked it and it has sat for a year or so (outside) and he never fixed it so I picked it up. I never started it since he said it had problems. I never got to hear the "knock". If you look at the video at the end I hold up the piston and show where the top ring expanded in the ringland and locked. So, the "knock" could have been piston slap I suppose. There is no detectable play in the up and down motion on the rod. However the play side to side seems excessive to me. But if you say thats normal I will believe you. I just don't want to put this thing back together to have is start knocking as soon as I start it. The missing washers bother me. dajogejr- Your saying I can put at 91+ crank in it and get some extra stroke?? Do I have to add any kind of spacer? The clymer's manual claims 7:1 compression stock so this is obviously an area where I can pick up some power working the head. Unless just tossing the 91+ crank in will give me some stroke as well as compression. Also the bore is very clean, no scores. I guess I will just buy another .040 piston and hone it. I of course have ported the jug. (no port timing changes) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toybreaker Posted December 3, 2006 Report Share Posted December 3, 2006 87-92 cranks do not interchange with the 85-86. he mentioned using the later rod for a long rod combo. the washers go at the TOP of the rod not down on the rod bearing area. A pretty screwy design. they get brittle after 3 or 4 seasons and eventually break apart causng a big old mess If the guy that did the top end last time didn't put in those washers probably caused the last session of carnage. You are going to have good handling fun trail bike when you get it back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ojcool Posted December 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2006 Well, the schematic shows hardend washers in the Crank Journal as well. I don't have any on this crank... Well, either way, you have seen the video of the crank conditon.. The bottom line is, can I put this crank back in? As stated there is no noticeable up and down play in it. I also have access to an Arbor Press, Don't you need jigs to change rods? Or can I just press a new one on? The clymers manual give NOTHING as far as rebuilding the crank, it states you need specialized tool and jigs to do this. Am I wrong in saying the crank should have washers in the journal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted December 4, 2006 Report Share Posted December 4, 2006 Hey... Is it possible those washers are pressed into the crank? I would think if they were on there and came off, that thing would be wasted... I would have the crank checked for Trueness, as well...Stu. I mean, you have it ripped down this far, why chance it for a few bucks or minutes of your time for something so small.... I don't know if those cranks need to be welded or not, my guess would be probably no. I'd try not to cut any corners...but, as the same time...I wouldn't empty my pockets either... :beer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LiftdT4R Posted December 4, 2006 Report Share Posted December 4, 2006 I'd try not to cut any corners...but, as the same time...I wouldn't empty my pockets either... :beer: Damn good advice! :beer: Easier said then done though, :yelrotflmao: . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toybreaker Posted December 4, 2006 Report Share Posted December 4, 2006 The bottom washers don't stop the side to side play. It is always there. The top washers are the important ones. From the video the crank looks usable. I would run it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ojcool Posted December 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2006 Well, heres where we are. The jug has to be bored. It's going to end up .060 over so it will have one bore left. The crank has other issues so it's going to MrCrankshaft where Vince is going to fix it right. He said putting the longer rod on it is possible but not advised. The bike is getting all new bearings and seals including A arm and Swingarm bearings. Reeds will be stock. The frame is getting stripped to bare metal and repainted black. The case and Jug will also get paint. So when all is said and done the bike will basically be a 260cc trail ported ripper. Hopefullly a nice looking one. Rear wheels are alum but the fronts are stock, and crappy. It already has holeshots on it so I guess I keep them. Pipe will most likely stay stock as well. I don't know if I will pony up the cash for new plastic but once it's together most likely it will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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