cam2 Posted November 14, 2006 Report Share Posted November 14, 2006 i'm in the process of building a 421 cub, shearer in-frames, 35mm pwk's, blah, blah, blah...........and i know that eventually i'll have to put a longer swingarm on my shee. so i was wondering what length people would recommend or run? the shee is going to be a play bike not a drag bike with an occasional drag race, and i do mean an occassional drag race. i'll be using knobbies and paddles depending on where i'll be riding. i won't always be riding in the open so i don't want to lose too much manueverability. i was considering a +4 but i'm not sure if that will be long enough to keep the front tires down most of the time. +6 is as long as i want to go but i'm not sure if that will be too long for my type of riding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted November 14, 2006 Report Share Posted November 14, 2006 i can ride my 421 cub with +4 with no problems. in the sand its a little touch to keep the front end down off the line in a drag race but other than that its fine. i went out the other day and rode my 10mm cub with a +6 on it and i can whip it around pretty good with the +6. i say you will prolly be fine with the +4 but if youre at all concerned with keeping it down go with the +6. you wont lose much handling if any.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted November 14, 2006 Report Share Posted November 14, 2006 Depends on your paddles, gearing, air pressure and sand type, as well. I had your same setup (going bigger carbs, alky, etc.) I ran stock gearing (14/41 or 42), 6 over arm and 10 paddle haulers with a 72" rollout. Tall, skinny tire. Granted, I'm 245 lbs. It is a handful.... If you drag more than dune, I say 6 or 8 over to help keep the front end down. If you dune more, 4 or 6 over... I'm going to be more drag, less dune...and I'm going 14 over with 14 paddle extremes. (I won't be carving very good turns anytime soon...) I should also mentioned, I switched from stock shocks to Marvin Shaw comp series all around. VERY, very stiff...but, since the back end is not sagging as much as a softer shock....it will not wheelie quite as much...better weight transfer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5150banshee Posted November 14, 2006 Report Share Posted November 14, 2006 i went with a +6 and i have a little bit more done then that including NOS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted November 14, 2006 Report Share Posted November 14, 2006 i went with a +6 and i have a little bit more done then that including NOS I'd like to see a vid of that thing!! 6 over and NOS? You're either not hitting it out of the hole, have a wheelie bar, or not enough paddle..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Posted November 15, 2006 Report Share Posted November 15, 2006 know someone with a 421 cheetah and +6. Only dune rides and it will definately pull the front end. He's running kevlar 10 pdl extreme ultralights. Axis shocks all the way around. +4 would be a handful if you have the proper tire setup. Thats just my opinion from what I've seen in the dunes but I don't know jack so take it for what it's worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animalman294 Posted November 15, 2006 Report Share Posted November 15, 2006 I debated about this for about six months, until I finally made a decision and went with a +6 from Jeff. I had them put on a few strengthing gussets and they turned out pretty sweet after chroming. But I think that with a little riding adjustment on my part the +6 will handle fine, and will keep the front down just fine............. :beer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phx450 Posted November 15, 2006 Report Share Posted November 15, 2006 i'm in the process of building a 421 cub, shearer in-frames, 35mm pwk's, blah, blah, blah...........and i know that eventually i'll have to put a longer swingarm on my shee. so i was wondering what length people would recommend or run? the shee is going to be a play bike not a drag bike with an occasional drag race, and i do mean an occassional drag race. i'll be using knobbies and paddles depending on where i'll be riding. i won't always be riding in the open so i don't want to lose too much manueverability. i was considering a +4 but i'm not sure if that will be long enough to keep the front tires down most of the time. +6 is as long as i want to go but i'm not sure if that will be too long for my type of riding. Same motor Bigger carbs here. +8 I weigh 190 as well. It is only a drag bike, so take it for what its worth! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted November 15, 2006 Report Share Posted November 15, 2006 Not to sound like a jerk...but good luck getting a cub to hook up with any kind of knobbies and a swingarm... I have year old holeshot XCRs I used last year on my stock motor, piped, etc. They didn't hook up great in dirt and sand, but...on grass...they hooked like a mofo. With my +6 and cub motor, it will fry them on any surface, grass, dirt, pavement, you name it. Tried different gearing and air pressures, too. You'll be able to tool around, but forget about traction once you lay into it. Wonder how those Kenda Klaws with every other knob removed would be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam2 Posted November 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2006 Not to sound like a jerk... well you do, you're just a big ol' jerk. hahaha, just kidding Dave. :beer: i believe you, but there are some areas that i ride i'll be better off with knobbies than paddles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted November 15, 2006 Report Share Posted November 15, 2006 Hey...no prob. I wouldn't say it if I didn't just do it!! All my buddies ride 450s, and I felt like TRYING to ride some trails. Just no fun, frying the tires, a little water, and no place to really open it up. Funny...my buddy just build a BIG 564 kit for his TRX 450, and he wasn't impressed with my banshee at all with the knobbies on. We went to Silver Lake a few weeks ago, with paddles....and he admitted. He has a WHOLE NEW respect for a cub banshee....with paddles and actually getting traction. I told him wait till I get the override and I can actually shift it...LOL... I know Loco is big on those Kenda Klaws with every other row shaved, maybe he can offer insight on how these work in trails! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okbeast Posted November 15, 2006 Report Share Posted November 15, 2006 I know Loco is big on those Kenda Klaws with every other row shaved, maybe he can offer insight on how these work in trails! I was thinkin a few weeks ago he said the Klaws with the knobbies cut off were only good for doing his dirt/grass hillclimbing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RNBRAD Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 I went with a +4 since my quad is set-up as an all around duner. I may have went with a +6 if I didn't have the +1 a-arms. Dragging I have to slip the clutch quite a bit to keep the front end down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 I was thinkin a few weeks ago he said the Klaws with the knobbies cut off were only good for doing his dirt/grass hillclimbing? yea pretty much only straight line. once you cut the other row out you lose your side to side traction. but straight line, you better hold the fuck on!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animalman294 Posted November 17, 2006 Report Share Posted November 17, 2006 Well it sounds like when the rows are cut out they act like dirt paddles............ :beer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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