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Posted (edited)
Well I still have the same problem. The new stator pickup was gapped at .028 (should be around .018) and the bike just poped and did not start. Went to adjust the pickup and the scerws snaped :banghead: Drilled them out, taped them, adjusted to .018 and nothing :verymad:

 

I took the stator off the drag bike and installed it. Started on the first kick!

 

I think at this point, I want a refund. I just hate to have to buy one from Yamaha for what they get for them.

 

Anybody have a spair working stator lying around? The worst part of all this is that we have a 3 day ride (my birthday ride) planed for next weekend.

 

I have a stock 2005 stator with about 10 hours of time on it.

 

What years is your bike, and what year stator did you order, what year is the drag bike?

Edited by Snopczynski
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Posted
I *think* I read that their stuff comes from china now. I could be mistaken..anyone else remember reading this?

 

I have seen their current stuff and old stuff, and the tooling looks like it has not been changed in the last 5 years.

Posted
I have a stock 2005 stator with about 10 hours of time on it.

 

What years is your bike, and what year stator did you order, what year is the drag bike?

 

The dune bike is a 2004, and the Drag bike uses the same plugin as the Dune bike. That sucks, I personaly talked to Mike at Ricky Stator and he told me that they can't send them out un assembled. That is the way I wanted them to send mine. He did say that they would send it with the pickup screws loose so I could adjust it.

 

I bought a stock one from a member here, and it works fine. When RS sends it back, I think I will see if it works. If it does I might keep it for a spair or e-Bay it. It's just not worth the hassle to deal with them anymore.

Posted

well just to put another bad check on this thread I have had nothing but problems with RS stuff the last 2 weeks bolts breaking because the pic up is way off. Then the bolts holding the stator on the plate stripped out. Had to drill out the bolts. Also had problems on the dyno with the plate not being Right :shrug: the timing seemed way off and put a built one on and solved the problem. My advice is spend the money because in this case you get what you pay for!

Posted

O.K. enough of the stripping the pick-up bolts off ! lol

 

Next time the gap needs to be adjusted just rotate the flywheel so the timing tab is NOT under the pick-up.

 

Take the palm of your hand - small rubber mallet - forhead - whatever, and tap (read: don`t smack the shit out of it)....

 

You are just looking to slightly bend the tab IT DOESN~T TAKE MUCH EFFORT . similiar to adjusting the gap down on a spark plug.

 

Now it will probably be a little close, so as you rotate the flywheel tab back underneath the pick-up, go slowly & adjust out as needed.

 

Has worked for me for years & NO MORE BROKEN BOLTS :biggrin:

 

whattathink ?

Posted

What I think is that I should not have to "tap" bend or modify something that is "NEW". I am glad that this has worked for you but I perfer things to work the way they were intended to. Sorry ...........I dont have the problems with a well made billet plate. :thumbsup:

Posted

I tend to agree with mike on this one. when I spend $$ on a NEW product, I expect it to work like a NEW product and not need adjustments that in turn FUCK everything up on the unit.

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