Toybreaker Posted October 26, 2006 Report Share Posted October 26, 2006 Ok I read the FAQ But, is there another way to get the idle adjustment without removing material from the carb bodies? Here is the skinny 1988 64.25mm bore, stock stroke welded and trued crank V-Force 2 reeds stock carbs with tors eliminated idle screws all the way in, cables adjusted all the way out everywhere it can be adjusted cool head with 20 cc domes jetting as follows 320 mains 27.5 pilots stock needle at 2 slot from blunt end plug chop shows proper jetting no bog anywhere just a little soft on the bottom end. Screams on top. Is there something electrical i am missing with the tors elctrical stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheefreak Posted October 26, 2006 Report Share Posted October 26, 2006 Not if it screams on top. If it was the TORS system giving you problems, it would barely idle, and not rev at all. Need to get the holes drilled for the idle screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toybreaker Posted October 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2006 The idle screws are drilled. They are screwed all the way in. Pull the slides and the brass tit is almost .3(about 9mm for you metric types) into the slide's bore. The throttle cable adjustment at the handlebars is all the way out, the tops of the carbs is all the way out. I don't understand it. going from 25 all the way up to 32.5 pilots has made no difference. It runs the best with 27.5's the needle has no bearing on the idle circuit but i played with it too. 2nd slot for the blunt end runs the best. Still won't idle. I am tempted to put my TORS carb set up back on. It idled. I went through the carbs before i installed them. blew all the passages with brake cleaner and compressed air. Made sure the jets were clean and gunk free. Mechanically nothing is wrong. I really hate having to play with the throttle to keep it running while i am sitting still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sschevy383 Posted November 2, 2006 Report Share Posted November 2, 2006 Remove the idle screws and you have to remove some material where the screw goes. I took off about 3/8 of an inch to get enough play for adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baddsheee Posted November 2, 2006 Report Share Posted November 2, 2006 Where the idle screws were drilled and tapped for, the bore is at an angle. You can mille or flatten it to be perfectly at a 90. For a start to set the idle, look down in the carb with the cap off and when the tip of the idle screw is just flush then do 2 full turns on the idle screw. I got that from tip from one the the hqer here. Always adjust evenly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted November 2, 2006 Report Share Posted November 2, 2006 That metal is so soft, a scotchbrite pad (or roloc pad) on a die grinder will remove more than enough material to allow the brass idle screws to flatten out and move the slide as you need it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest nightmare Posted November 2, 2006 Report Share Posted November 2, 2006 I had the same problem. Just had to remove more material from the side of the carb to get the screw to go in farther. An easy way to tell if this is your problem is take the locknut off of the screws. This will alow you to run the screw in a little more. If that works then you know you need to file it down some more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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