raptorooster Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 Hey guys, gettin some crankshaft rattle finally and im thinkin its finally time to add some power, ive been looking at the 68mm Cub cyls. with a 4mm crankshaft. Ive got a 35cv. setup and SST pipes. Im wondering how this is all gonna work?? most everyone iv seen run these uses big twin carbs, just wonderin how well the Cub will work with the carb and pipe setup im using? im interested in the setup, just not happy bout replacing the carb and pipes yunno, any help would be great, thanks, Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 Hey guys, gettin some crankshaft rattle finally and im thinkin its finally time to add some power, ive been looking at the 68mm Cub cyls. with a 4mm crankshaft. Ive got a 35cv. setup and SST pipes. Im wondering how this is all gonna work?? most everyone iv seen run these uses big twin carbs, just wonderin how well the Cub will work with the carb and pipe setup im using? im interested in the setup, just not happy bout replacing the carb and pipes yunno, any help would be great, thanks, Ryan those carbs will be fine for cubs,,, however you might want a differant pipe... fmf, pro circuit, and all the other supercross and motocross pipes re low to mid ranged pipes and cubs love HIGH rpms and WOT. look at some rocket inframes shearers infrmae or cpi inframes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odaen Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 Hey guys, gettin some crankshaft rattle finally and im thinkin its finally time to add some power, ive been looking at the 68mm Cub cyls. with a 4mm crankshaft. Ive got a 35cv. setup and SST pipes. Im wondering how this is all gonna work?? most everyone iv seen run these uses big twin carbs, just wonderin how well the Cub will work with the carb and pipe setup im using? im interested in the setup, just not happy bout replacing the carb and pipes yunno, any help would be great, thanks, Ryan PM creamsickle on here, and ask him how he likes his cub setup. He's got the 2 into 1 carb setup and some Paul Turners, and I think he likes it. I'm thinking he had his cub decked to lower the port timings. Maybe he'll chime in here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raptorooster Posted October 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 Thanks for the input guys, im thinkin im gonna run it and see how it is, hell, its just money!! If i end up shopping for pipes and another carb setup ill live!! how is this setup gonna be in the trails? they are fairly open with plenty of WOT space, I have recently read that this setup is not worth a s*** in the trails?? I mostly ride agressively in the trails, and any hill i can find to ride up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 Thanks for the input guys, im thinkin im gonna run it and see how it is, hell, its just money!! If i end up shopping for pipes and another carb setup ill live!! how is this setup gonna be in the trails? they are fairly open with plenty of WOT space, I have recently read that this setup is not worth a s*** in the trails?? I mostly ride agressively in the trails, and any hill i can find to ride up! as long as its nbot alot of tight turns and shit like a track... they should run well... they just LOVE rpms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTOYS Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 Cubs can be made to run fine in the trails especially with your single carb setup. Might pm jeepman380 on here as he has one that runs very well!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 Sorry guys...I'm gonna have to disagree... I havesame cubs/crank you're looking at...but I had T5 pipes and stock carbs, and I hated it on trails. And these were wide open trails...nice and faster ones. A single 35 might get you a little more low end, but not worlds different. Just a clean up port by that guy above me...Jeff. I think a good set of stock cylinders ported right and a stroker crank would be better than cubs... Just my .02 coming from where you are thinking of going.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 Sorry jeff, but I have to disagree on that one too. I had a 4mil crank, stock cub running with cut domes to lower my port timings, T5's and 33's, which would give more low end response. There was no way I could or would try to ride that thing on any kind of trails. Way too much power up on top, even with my attempts to lower the port timings. Got a cub cut for the crank I had and put on some CPI pipes and 35's and let it breathe right and it was an absolute monseter up on top in the sand, and definitely no way in hell I would try it on trails. JMO. Have nothing against jeff, I just don't think cubs are a wise choice for trails. Get a set of stock cylinders and have jeff port them or someone else port them for low end stuff and you would be a lot happier IMO. :beer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odaen Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 Well, there's definitely more than 1 way to skin a cat for sure. You can take a 7mm cub, and deck 1.5mm off of it, and throw a 4mm crank in and it will be a completely different motor than a normal 421 cub. From the factory though, I'd also highly not recommend a cub setup for anything other than drag racing or open dunes. They are monster motors with wicked power bands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
535banshee Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 Well, there's definitely more than 1 way to skin a cat for sure. You can take a 7mm cub, and deck 1.5mm off of it, and throw a 4mm crank in and it will be a completely different motor than a normal 421 cub. From the factory though, I'd also highly not recommend a cub setup for anything other than drag racing or open dunes. They are monster motors with wicked power bands. i sold a guy a 400 cheetha pv motor that he trail rides and just loves it. its real snappy of the bottom and pulls hard all the the way up. i think the best way to go is the cub witha set of paul turners pipes. those pipes by far work the best from low to mid and still have good not great topend. i am a dealer on cubs and paul turner so pm me for a great price Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTOYS Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 Oh i agree with you guys dont get me wrong. As i said "Cubs CAN be made to run fine in trails". But if its a trail motor your after i would strongly suggest a good Dune/Play port stock cyl. setup anyday!! Out of the box or even cleaned up the Cubs come with drag port durations so they are really meant for Drag not trail riding but some do it anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 id just get a dune or woods port. i wouldnt run cubs in the trails either. buy a new crank get ur cyls ported and be on ur way... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raptorooster Posted October 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2006 Well guys, this is what I wanted to hear!! The only thing ive got goin is this, At this time I have 3 sets of stock cylinders, The first set I had mildly ported, didnt make enough power, so I bought another set, Had them ported for the trails, not enough power, so on set 3 now dune ported, a little closer to where i want to be, but now with no bottom end whatsoever, the problem is that this thing is that its always wrung out completly, so the plan was going with the unported cubs to keep the low end and put on some more up top. ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 23, 2006 Report Share Posted October 23, 2006 Well guys, this is what I wanted to hear!! The only thing ive got goin is this, At this time I have 3 sets of stock cylinders, The first set I had mildly ported, didnt make enough power, so I bought another set, Had them ported for the trails, not enough power, so on set 3 now dune ported, a little closer to where i want to be, but now with no bottom end whatsoever, the problem is that this thing is that its always wrung out completly, so the plan was going with the unported cubs to keep the low end and put on some more up top. ??? To clarify...the cubs come with "drag style" port timings right out of the box. All a clean up port does is get rid of the casting flaws...and flashings. That's not changing the port timings whatsoever... You will not get bottom end out of a cub cylinder...if that's what you're looking for, I'd pony up the extra dough and go with a cheetah cylinder. Similar port timings, but...they have a power valve in them. I'd bet that's what you're looking for. Also, who ported those other stock cylinders?...just out of curiousity.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odaen Posted October 23, 2006 Report Share Posted October 23, 2006 Are you running stock stroke still? What compression, elevation, etc? Also, what is your ignition timing set at? Compression and timing advance can make a pretty good difference in your bottom and mid-RPM performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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