Washburn Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 Ok, I am seeking more power out of the Shee and I have heard a +4 advanced timing plate would help me gain some needed power. Ive been thinking about it and I can see how it could mabey make the premix flow at a faster rate through the combustion chamber but is that really necessary on a stock bore ? Could it just make my engine less reliable? Is there any other way to gain power before doing this. I am not at risk of detonation yet would this put me at risk? Im also going to get my flywheel lightened ASAP and the port job and V3s will come this winter. Im running t6s 2in1 air filter ping kill switch/AKA my Key No parking break Noss Coolhead w 20cc domes elevation 1083 above sea level temp in the low 60s high 50s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csrmel Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 advanced timing will give you a bunch more low rpm and midrange power. i just did this mod myself and i am of the opinion that all banshees should of had this done right at the factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 Please don't change the premix thinking it's going to give you more power, it will only hurt reliability... (Unless you say you're running at like 10:1...lol ) As long as you're in the 32:1 range, give or take, leave it there. +4 plate and a shaved flywheel are the way to go. Then, short of an expensive ignition, it's left to porting or other internal work, and you'll probably want better pipes for that. It's been said here a million times, with very conservative porting, T6s will work...but, more agressive porting is not what they're made for. Some will say VForce reeds, but...I'd tell you to get porting before them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Washburn Posted October 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 Please don't change the premix thinking it's going to give you more power, it will only hurt reliability... (Unless you say you're running at like 10:1...lol ) As long as you're in the 32:1 range, give or take, leave it there. +4 plate and a shaved flywheel are the way to go. Then, short of an expensive ignition, it's left to porting or other internal work, and you'll probably want better pipes for that. It's been said here a million times, with very conservative porting, T6s will work...but, more agressive porting is not what they're made for. Some will say VForce reeds, but...I'd tell you to get porting before them. Ha no man I run my bike at 32:1 and I will never change that. Im even thinking not to change the timing cause it might make my engine less reliable. Is this the case????? The T6s are going to have to go as I plan on getting an agressive woods port from Buchanan Racing. I plan on boring it out mabey .10 over getting some pro lites mabey a longer rod the port job and the V forces all at the same time. I just have absolutly no clue what Pipes Im going to get when I get rid of the T6s. I was thinking inframe CPIs but they are more for drag. FMFs but thats not that big of a change from the Toomeys and I like Toomey very much so mabey the T5s. Ill cross that bridge when I come to it. The biggest question on my mind is is this +4 timing advance going to affect reliability in the long run???? Thank you both for the responces and keep em commin :beer: BTW The Steeler game is on and we are handing the Chiefs their ASSES! HA HAAAAAAAA HERE WE GO STEELERS HERE WE GO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csrmel Posted October 16, 2006 Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 it wont effect reliability. if anything it would probably be more reliable. i noticed that after advancing the timing on my engine i use less throttle to go the same speed. this means less fuel burned and a cooler running engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 16, 2006 Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 I don't know if I buy that....adding compression or timing will actually make your bike run warmer. How much? Probably not enough to worry about .. Any time you modify a stock engine to do anything, it cuts down reliabilty...but, you're less reliable now with the pipes than what timing would effect, IMO. I think T5 or Trinity would be a good choice... CPI probably wouldn't match up to a wood/mx port very well... If you're gonna pull the crank out, and you have the money....you might want to think about a 4 mil stroker.... Your builder will tell you to best go about that. You can either run a spacer plate or have the porting changed and run 795's ...either way you'll need a rechambered head. The good news is you can sell your stock crank if it's in good shape for 100 to 150 bucks or so, that'll offset some of the cost. And....you can get pretty good dollar for those T6 pipes for other ones. Hell, Toomey may even let you trade those T6's for T5...for little or no money out of pocket... I know you can trade in T5's for T6's.... And they don't make ProLites in a .010... I'm pretty sure .020 is the starting point, then .010 increments from there. BTW...our Tigers walked through the Yankess...swept the A's...bring it on National Leauge...lol... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Washburn Posted October 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 I don't know if I buy that....adding compression or timing will actually make your bike run warmer. How much? Probably not enough to worry about .. Any time you modify a stock engine to do anything, it cuts down reliabilty...but, you're less reliable now with the pipes than what timing would effect, IMO. I think T5 or Trinity would be a good choice... CPI probably wouldn't match up to a wood/mx port very well... If you're gonna pull the crank out, and you have the money....you might want to think about a 4 mil stroker.... Your builder will tell you to best go about that. You can either run a spacer plate or have the porting changed and run 795's ...either way you'll need a rechambered head. The good news is you can sell your stock crank if it's in good shape for 100 to 150 bucks or so, that'll offset some of the cost. And....you can get pretty good dollar for those T6 pipes for other ones. Hell, Toomey may even let you trade those T6's for T5...for little or no money out of pocket... I know you can trade in T5's for T6's.... And they don't make ProLites in a .010... I'm pretty sure .020 is the starting point, then .010 increments from there. BTW...our Tigers walked through the Yankess...swept the A's...bring it on National Leauge...lol... Well the 4 mill might be a little to expensive but then again mabey not if I save. I dont know if that much power would be good for woods though. Might be a little too much Im having a hard time thinking rite now I have to put my dog SHADOW of 13 years to sleep tomorow. Im going to make an In memory thread sometime this week and this is a warning If anyone here disrespects the thread I swear to god if I ever find the person blood will be spilled. This is why Im not going to post it on the Pantera board Ive been a member on since day one. Im going to the bar tonight and Im going to have a few mabey cry in my beer I dont know but warning in advance if I post anything crazy tonight excuse it. If anyone wants to AIM me my screenname is BongzillaCFH. Bongzilla is one of my favorite bands so. Im off to the bar. Later and thank you guys for everything. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunyabinness Posted October 16, 2006 Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 dude, i'm sorry to hear about your dog. the stroker crank is not going to be too much power for woods riding. if anything it will help out with woods riding because it will help out with the low end. also (i know i'm gonna catch hell for saying this) for woods riding i would suggest pro circuit pipes. just my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Washburn Posted October 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 dude, i'm sorry to hear about your dog. the stroker crank is not going to be too much power for woods riding. if anything it will help out with woods riding because it will help out with the low end. also (i know i'm gonna catch hell for saying this) for woods riding i would suggest pro circuit pipes. just my opinion. Yeah its fucked up. sorry children. Damn is it fucked up! Shit you kinda just convinced me into the 4 mil. Damn I aint got shit now how in the hell am I suposto afford that. Oh yeah, thank GOD for Buchanan Racing. Ahhhhhh I know he will hook me up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chase@miamiatv.com Posted October 16, 2006 Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 well the 4 mill is going to overall add more cc's your port job you get for the motor will determain where your power is really made at aswell as the pipes that complement the port job . You like to run 4th,5th,6th on ure banshee now ? defintly go with some cpi's and a aggressive style woods or dune port . Bigger carbs would be nice but not too big , you still want to keep the bottom end so i think 30mm's would be great . +4 timing ... Lets not forget the good reeds to complement ure setup. You really are building a hole new motor once you start porting and changing with the parts to increase hp.... it will open your eyes man , really !!! Any banshee nut will agree with porting...... MORE FLOW , MORE GO .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06BansheeSE Posted October 18, 2006 Report Share Posted October 18, 2006 Can someone give me a link and a brand of a timing plate so i could buy one, is the pro design one good? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csrmel Posted October 18, 2006 Report Share Posted October 18, 2006 check ebay, their about $35. if youre handy with a drill and hand file and dont mind working on it for 30 mins you can mod the stock one to get +4 for free. daojejr, i just did a +4 timing mod the other weekend. with NO other mods done, i noticed a 10 degree reduction in temp after doing it while cruising dirt roads. timing is a fully thing. too retarded and it will run hotter. too advanced and it will run hotter. if the timing is set to the optimum ammount it will run cooler compared to overly retarded or advanced. and i believe the stock timing is overly retarded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Washburn Posted October 18, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2006 Can someone give me a link and a brand of a timing plate so i could buy one, is the pro design one good? Thanks! Im getting mine next week from here http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=75 Im also getting the Billet pro design Impeller from there. Did you get your Noss Head and Domes yet? Im thinking about getting a pair of 17 or 18cc domes to switch out for my 20ccs for about a week after I get my timing plate. Ill have to run straight race gas but I want the power. At least untill I get my port job then I will go back to the 20cc domes. Thats one thing thats so awsome about the Noss head you can easyly switch your domes out for more or less compression depending on what your suited up to ride at that current time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 18, 2006 Report Share Posted October 18, 2006 17cc is pushing it IMO... If you haven't welded your stock crank by now, you need to. 17cc or 18cc domes will make quick work of that... I like to run a little less compression, but more timing.... And, I always replace the Orings when I remove the head. For 20 bucks, it's not worth reusing ORings to risk a leak.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Washburn Posted October 18, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2006 17cc is pushing it IMO... If you haven't welded your stock crank by now, you need to. 17cc or 18cc domes will make quick work of that... I like to run a little less compression, but more timing.... And, I always replace the Orings when I remove the head. For 20 bucks, it's not worth reusing ORings to risk a leak.... Wow my man to the rescue. I have not had my stock crank welded yet. I was definatly going to do this too you might just have save me alot of $$$. Thank you man. Very much. If I dont get my 4 mil this winter witch is looking dismal I will atleast have my stock crank welded with my port job if not for the domes then just for my weight. I am at 302 rite now I dropped like 12 lbs and I wanna keep dropping. 100lbs means 10 extra HP. Whoooooohooooooooo!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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