bladesracing Posted October 2, 2006 Report Share Posted October 2, 2006 I'm gonna rebuild my shee this winter. I ride a variety of places trails, dunes, and some drags. I was thinking of running a cub stroker, but I dont know what size stroke or carb sizes. Right now I have stock jugs that have been ported polished and boost ports drilled,stock carbs, Paul Turner pipes with FMF mufflers, different air box with a K&N filter, Hinson clutch basket. Any and all suggestions welcomed. Thanks a lot!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 2, 2006 Report Share Posted October 2, 2006 You're gonna get a million answers on what the cubs are and are not good for. I trail rode today, in a little mud and water...and I 100% hated it. No traction with knobbies...either on the pipe or locking up the brakes, more often than not the latter.... Here's the dilemma... If you want a cub to run to it's potential....you build it as a drag and dune bike. Forget the trails. We're talking 35mm or larger carbs....top end pipes, i.e. Shearer, CPI, Rocket, GRR, etc. Or...you could choke it down a little by keeping your pipe and carb setup.... It'll be ok, but...In my opinion....it's still gonna have a lot of power that is unusable on trails... I went from stock carbs and T5 pipes to RDZ/Shearer inframes and 35PWK...and...I'm not done. Pretty soon, alky, over ride tranny, lockup clutch, etc. Since you do a little bit of everything, here's what I'd suggest. Get a trued and welded 4 mil long rod crank, get a good dune port to match the new crank (port timings change) run the 795 series pistons, cut and mill the head. Then, pickup some 33 or 35mm carbs. I think that would be a better all around package than a cub setup....for all around riding like you said. It would be more power everywhere, better torque, but...it wouldn't be out of control for the trails...and still pretty reliable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Blue Posted October 2, 2006 Report Share Posted October 2, 2006 You're gonna get a million answers on what the cubs are and are not good for. I trail rode today, in a little mud and water...and I 100% hated it. No traction with knobbies...either on the pipe or locking up the brakes, more often than not the latter.... Here's the dilemma... If you want a cub to run to it's potential....you build it as a drag and dune bike. Forget the trails. We're talking 35mm or larger carbs....top end pipes, i.e. Shearer, CPI, Rocket, GRR, etc. Or...you could choke it down a little by keeping your pipe and carb setup.... It'll be ok, but...In my opinion....it's still gonna have a lot of power that is unusable on trails... I went from stock carbs and T5 pipes to RDZ/Shearer inframes and 35PWK...and...I'm not done. Pretty soon, alky, over ride tranny, lockup clutch, etc. Since you do a little bit of everything, here's what I'd suggest. Get a trued and welded 4 mil long rod crank, get a good dune port to match the new crank (port timings change) run the 795 series pistons, cut and mill the head. Then, pickup some 33 or 35mm carbs. I think that would be a better all around package than a cub setup....for all around riding like you said. It would be more power everywhere, better torque, but...it wouldn't be out of control for the trails...and still pretty reliable. This hasnt been brought up in a while so I will stir the pot. If you want a superior cylinder buy the cub and have it decked down to bring the port timings to a more tame level........... this should get some stuff going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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