addicted Posted October 2, 2006 Report Share Posted October 2, 2006 Anyone have any tricks to verify that the coolant is flowing corectly? I have all the right parts to keep it cool and I'm still fighting heat.(pro-design impeller,in-line cooler, pro-design radiator, engine ice, jetting looks real close) I also did a leakdown test with no leakdown in 15 minutes.With the engine running the coolant is vibrating so much that I can't tell if it is flowing. I'm running out of ideas so any help would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
switchblade Posted October 2, 2006 Report Share Posted October 2, 2006 Anyone have any tricks to verify that the coolant is flowing corectly? I have all the right parts to keep it cool and I'm still fighting heat.(pro-design impeller,in-line cooler, pro-design radiator, engine ice, jetting looks real close) I also did a leakdown test with no leakdown in 15 minutes.With the engine running the coolant is vibrating so much that I can't tell if it is flowing. I'm running out of ideas so any help would be appreciated. How much timing are you running Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
addicted Posted October 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2006 Anyone have any tricks to verify that the coolant is flowing corectly? I have all the right parts to keep it cool and I'm still fighting heat.(pro-design impeller,in-line cooler, pro-design radiator, engine ice, jetting looks real close) I also did a leakdown test with no leakdown in 15 minutes.With the engine running the coolant is vibrating so much that I can't tell if it is flowing. I'm running out of ideas so any help would be appreciated. 0 on my plate. My dyna has been reprogrammed by trinity, but I'm running on the stock curve, because of the heat.I'm also running 22cc domes with 110vp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yamahammer Posted October 2, 2006 Report Share Posted October 2, 2006 you can verify the pump is turning by removing the water pump cover but that means draning the the coolant. make sure if you do to thr and turn the water pump to verify the gear is not melted on the inside.. maybe an air pocket, was it all at once or since the install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
switchblade Posted October 2, 2006 Report Share Posted October 2, 2006 you can verify the pump is turning by removing the water pump cover but that means draning the the coolant. make sure if you do to thr and turn the water pump to verify the gear is not melted on the inside.. maybe an air pocket, was it all at once or since the install. Timing was my guess but if your at 0 you should be good. Swith to alky and you overheating problems should be gone. I have a 4mill cheatah and mine runs a little hot, but nothing that concerns me. I'm switching to alky for the spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 2, 2006 Report Share Posted October 2, 2006 Why are you running 110 with 22cc domes? I'd like to see how far Trinity advances their timing.....regardless, on the stock curve, 22cc domes you really don't need race gas. That being said, who put the motor together, you or them? Did you properly seal and tighten the 4 plugs on the bottom of the cub cylinder? I'd check as they said above...make sure the gear isn't stripped on the WP. I run 20 or 19cc domes (185PSI...not 100% sure on dome size), a ton of timing (8 on the plate and curve 3, the highest advance) and straight water. Mine runs just fine.... Have you pressure tested the system and the cap itself? D'oh...just reread that. You have a cheetah, not a cub. I'm not 100% sure if they have those plugs on the bottom...but, it shoud be similar castings (water jacket size-wise)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
switchblade Posted October 2, 2006 Report Share Posted October 2, 2006 Why are you running 110 with 22cc domes? I'd like to see how far Trinity advances their timing.....regardless, on the stock curve, 22cc domes you really don't need race gas. That being said, who put the motor together, you or them? Did you properly seal and tighten the 4 plugs on the bottom of the cub cylinder? I'd check as they said above...make sure the gear isn't stripped on the WP. I run 20 or 19cc domes (185PSI...not 100% sure on dome size), a ton of timing (8 on the plate and curve 3, the highest advance) and straight water. Mine runs just fine.... Have you pressure tested the system and the cap itself? D'oh...just reread that. You have a cheetah, not a cub. I'm not 100% sure if they have those plugs on the bottom...but, it shoud be similar castings (water jacket size-wise)... Yes the cheetah does have those plugs, atleast mine does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
addicted Posted October 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2006 Why are you running 110 with 22cc domes? I'd like to see how far Trinity advances their timing.....regardless, on the stock curve, 22cc domes you really don't need race gas. That being said, who put the motor together, you or them? Did you properly seal and tighten the 4 plugs on the bottom of the cub cylinder? I'd check as they said above...make sure the gear isn't stripped on the WP. I run 20 or 19cc domes (185PSI...not 100% sure on dome size), a ton of timing (8 on the plate and curve 3, the highest advance) and straight water. Mine runs just fine.... Have you pressure tested the system and the cap itself? D'oh...just reread that. You have a cheetah, not a cub. I'm not 100% sure if they have those plugs on the bottom...but, it shoud be similar castings (water jacket size-wise)... Yes the cheetah does have the plugs inthe bottom and they are in tight, and sealed with sealant. I started with 19cc domes, thats why I'm running the race gas. I switched to the 22's to see if it would run any cooler. It didn't seem to make a diff. I also switched from the pro-Design impeller to a new stock one, to see if The water wasn't staying in the radiator too long. That didn't make a diff. either. So I have switched back. And when I did I put in a new gear, bearing and seal. I havn't preassure tested the system though. Is there a tool I can buy for that. I appreciate the ideas. Keep them coming please! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 3, 2006 Report Share Posted October 3, 2006 Aha...gotcha!!! Yep, any automotive store will sell a cooling system pressure tester. The same kit should be able to test your cap and the whole system. You can actually buy an automotive cap for your banshee, instead of getting raped by the dealer for one. Just make sure it's rated at the same PSI. Which...is the same PSI you test the system at. This one's a little pricey...but, it'll more than do the job. I'm sure your local auto parts store will have something. It might just be something simple like the cap... What is it doing by the way...to where you think it's running too hot?? http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...pid=00946342000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
addicted Posted October 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2006 Aha...gotcha!!! Yep, any automotive store will sell a cooling system pressure tester. The same kit should be able to test your cap and the whole system. You can actually buy an automotive cap for your banshee, instead of getting raped by the dealer for one. Just make sure it's rated at the same PSI. Which...is the same PSI you test the system at. This one's a little pricey...but, it'll more than do the job. I'm sure your local auto parts store will have something. It might just be something simple like the cap... What is it doing by the way...to where you think it's running too hot?? http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...pid=00946342000 First of all, thanks for the info. I have an inline temp guage and after 20 minutes of riding fairly hard, it will get up to 250deg. If I run it really hard out in the open it will stay about 200-220. Still too hot. I have also tested the tem. guage with a thermal laser, and it checks out good. Up until the time it overheats it runs really good. Fast, responsive, starts first kick. I am going to take your advise tommorow and test the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yamahammer Posted October 3, 2006 Report Share Posted October 3, 2006 how old is the radiator might want to take it to a shop and have it boiled to remove scale. Not much maoney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
addicted Posted October 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2006 how old is the radiator might want to take it to a shop and have it boiled to remove scale. Not much maoney It's brand new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metricmaster Posted October 3, 2006 Report Share Posted October 3, 2006 (edited) i had trouble with water puking out the overflow bottle and did every check i could and it ended up being a blown O-ring on my cool head. after reading a thousand post on here to find out what it might be, , Edited October 3, 2006 by metricmaster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.