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more 4mill stroker questions


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ok my eng related mods are: Fattys, milled head .030 I believe, v-force 3 reeds, K&N clamp on, stock cylinders, pistons, and crank.

 

I ride track, and wide open trails mostly some drag racing.

 

I want to put in a 4 mill I have the understanding that with the right porting they make good torque, and Hp. So it can be sutible for my riding type.

 

I will go with a hot rod +4 crank with plate. I want to get a head from noss can I just buy domes off him that will allow me to run with the 9?? pistons and no plate. Does he sell this or do I take his and get them cut somewhere? It I run the plate I can run stock pistons but it looks ghetoo? is that about right. It doesnt hurt anything?

 

I want to get a porting that is for my setup and riding type I guess I need a special type to go with the +4 crank not just a standard woods port. Where is a good place to go? gorr??

 

I need carbs which ones? or should I ask my porter? I have someone to do the crank piston install for me so Ill just have to send out the jugs to get done.

 

Oh and should the person who does my porting tell me what domes to put in?

 

What esle might I be missing other then a clutch?

 

Thanks for taking the time to help. Just wanna feel like I'm doing this right. lots of money to spend.

Edited by 2004LEBanshee
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ok my eng related mods are: Fattys, milled head .030 I believe, v-force 3 reeds, K&N clamp on, stock cylinders, pistons, and crank.

 

I ride track, and wide open trails mostly some drag racing.

 

I want to put in a 4 mill I have the understanding that with the right porting they make good torque, and Hp. So it can be sutible for my riding type.

 

I will go with a hot rod +4 crank with plate. I want to get a head from noss can I just buy domes off him that will allow me to run with the 9?? pistons and no plate. Does he sell this or do I take his and get them cut somewhere? It I run the plate I can run stock pistons but it looks ghetoo? is that about right. It doesnt hurt anything?

 

I want to get a porting that is for my setup and riding type I guess I need a special type to go with the +4 crank not just a standard woods port. Where is a good place to go? gorr??

 

I need carbs which ones? or should I ask my porter? I have someone to do the crank piston install for me so Ill just have to send out the jugs to get done.

 

Oh and should the person who does my porting tell me what domes to put in?

 

What esle might I be missing other then a clutch?

 

Thanks for taking the time to help. Just wanna feel like I'm doing this right. lots of money to spend.

 

if your going to rebuild the bottom end and put s stroker in it... you would be a fool to use stock oem pistons! cast pistons are much weaker then forged.. get a set of wiesco... if your running 64mm bore (stock) you will need weisco 795's... also theres no need to run the plate you can have the domes cut to your cc and your stroke....

 

as far as porting goes there are a ton of ppl that can hook your motor up.. gorr isnt doing motors anymore... look at Passion or F.A.S.T. for your porting... they do really nice work and can answer your questions on what type of porting will suit your riding style...

 

you can put the crank in your self if you have the tools, its very ez... just get a clymers and it will walk you through step by step...make sure you have the crank RE-welded by a reputable builder.

 

id say get your self some PWK 35mm carbs for this setup...

 

look at a new ignition... the Dyanktek is very nice! also get a billet impeller to help cool your new monster...as far as the cc cut for your domes its all about what gas you want to run... if your running race gas any ways go 20, 19 , 18 ... if your trying to saty away from race gas go higher... ultimately untill you get your motor back and see what kind of compression your runnng you wont know for sur what gas to run...

 

but if your going to get a 4mill stroker 5mill longrod... on stock bore with 22cc domes your looking at about 145 psi.. so youd be ok running 50/50

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I'd say a reputable builder should be able to answer all the questions you just asked. I would stay away from the spacer plate, just one more place for an air leak, just buy the 795 pistons and the builder you choose should have domes that will fit the noss head. you wanna get them from the builder anyway cause each builder sets there domes up alittle different. I would say go with jeff at FAST for your porting and parts, great guy to deal with and usally has everything in stock.

and yes to get the full potenchal out of the new crank you need to have the ports changed.

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I'd say a reputable builder should be able to answer all the questions you just asked. I would stay away from the spacer plate, just one more place for an air leak, just buy the 795 pistons and the builder you choose should have domes that will fit the noss head. you wanna get them from the builder anyway cause each builder sets there domes up alittle different. I would say go with jeff at FAST for your porting and parts, great guy to deal with and usally has everything in stock.

and yes to get the full potenchal out of the new crank you need to have the ports changed.

 

 

Is there a website for Fast? and or number? how is his work pricing, and turnover time compared to big names like trinity and Duncan?

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I'd say a reputable builder should be able to answer all the questions you just asked. I would stay away from the spacer plate, just one more place for an air leak, just buy the 795 pistons and the builder you choose should have domes that will fit the noss head. you wanna get them from the builder anyway cause each builder sets there domes up alittle different. I would say go with jeff at FAST for your porting and parts, great guy to deal with and usally has everything in stock.

and yes to get the full potenchal out of the new crank you need to have the ports changed.

 

i agree...ditch the spacer plate idea and do it right...jeff is a good guy to use..

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what cc will my engine be does the longer stroke change the cc of my engine. Just asking be cause I saw the 400 kit from alba and it dosent show any new sleves.

 

a 4 mill stroker with stock bore is a 373... to get 400 you got to go 66mm bore.... its actually a 396 but its known as a 400.... and if you go 68mm bore you got your self a 421...

 

a great way to determine your cc is like this

 

Size of stroke in mm x bore size in mm x bore size in mm x .007854 x the numbwe of cyinders..

Stock Stroke is 54mm Stock Bore is 64mm

 

so a stock motor looks like this...

 

54 x 64 x 64 x .0007854 x 2 = 347cc

 

a 4mill storker stock bore... 58 x 64 x 64 x .0007854 x 2= 373cc

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whats the highest bore that you can go on stock jugs. Is it worth it or better off to save bores for a bad day.

 

well i know you can run 66mm bore with no issues, not sure how much wall is left if you go out to 68... if any im sure its not much... so if you f the walls up your jugs are no good.. well take that back you can always have the sleeves pushedout and re sleeved...

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from what I have heard jeff is working on a web site right now and he will have it done real soon.

 

you can pm him on here he is FASTOYS or his number is 785-364-5325

his work is awsome!! he built me a 4mill drag ported cheetah cub and he also dune ported a set of cylinders for a frined of mine and that thing is a blast to ride anywhere. pending on the time of year you send your stuff in determins how long it will take to get them back. as far as duncan last I heard is they are great with 250rs but not to good on banshees. and trinity got to big for there own good and I have heard that there work has gone down hill.

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well i know you can run 66mm bore with no issues, not sure how much wall is left if you go out to 68... if any im sure its not much... so if you f the walls up your jugs are no good.. well take that back you can always have the sleeves pushedout and re sleeved...

 

66.5mm is the largest you can go on an OEM cylinder, which is .100 over...which, is a ticking time bomb waiting to happen...real, REAL thin walls. Save the bores for a rainy day freshen up.

You could go with a big bore sleeve...but, with all the aftermarket cylinders out now a days...time and labor to pay for a big bore sleeve kit is just about a waste.

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I would go with a smaller size carb than a 35 speaking from experience. Yes a 4mil engine will need a bigger carb but you said you do trails... a smaller carb will give you more bottom end response than a bigger carb. The bigger carb you will get more up on top but less bottom end response. I ran 33's on my 4mil cub and loved it. Real snappy down low, but I did miss out on a little more power up on top. The cylinders and my pipes already gave it a monster top end though so I was pretty happy. For dune riding I loved the 33's but when I would start drag racing I wished I had 35's.

 

Def. go with the cut domes. They will give you more bottom end and its easier to deal with than the spacer plate. I ran both on my setup a while back and I would definitely suggest going with the cut domes.

 

I had patriot racing cut my first set of domes and it was $90 to get them both cut and shipped to my door. After that I cut my own domes and it was a lot cheaper and I could make them as small as I needed since I ride at such high elevations. I was running a 15-16cc dome when I finially tore my shee apart to go bigger.

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