dajogejr Posted September 27, 2006 Report Share Posted September 27, 2006 can i still check my compression even though my radiator and pipes are not hooked up? thanks Yep...cooling system is all in all different than the cranking compression..... (Unless you have a bad seal or head gasket....then the two combine... ) :yelrotflmao: I would think Craftsman, Snapon, Matco and MAC tools would be fine quality... Also, you guys are using the thread in type adapters...not the universal rubber nozzle, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Handyman Posted September 27, 2006 Report Share Posted September 27, 2006 Before I did the top end on mine the compression when cold was at 85 and would drop down to below 70 when warm. The bike would start 2nd kick and ran while idling...wouldn't run when you tried to move it, it would just die. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fre530d Posted September 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 Hello, I am just gonna bore my cyl to 64.25mm and put some wiseco's in, I think that's the best? Is it necessary to put in two new rubber plugs in the cylinders (for the cooling liquid) or can I just reuse them? GRTZ Fred :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mavbike Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 Hello, I am just gonna bore my cyl to 64.25mm and put some wiseco's in, I think that's the best? Is it necessary to put in two new rubber plugs in the cylinders (for the cooling liquid) or can I just reuse them? GRTZ Fred :wink: New to Banshee, but been building 2-smokes for years. I'm lazy. Save Just a few bucks for new rubbers,,or,, spend a few bucks more for cheap insurance that I don't have to tear it apart again any-time soon. I vote for the cheap insurance. If you go with Wiseco,,, make sure it is bored for a forged piston. (Forged expand more than cast and so need more clearance or a slightly larger bore.) Most of the better machine shops will want the piston in advance so they can make sure the cylinder is bored for the correct clearance. (You may check their prices if they order the piston also. The local guy I deal with will order the piston/s for me and then charges me about what I would have to pay for the piston/s but without the shipping. Shipping isn't much, but every penny counts. O.K. so I'm a tight-wad and I'm lazy.) As far as Wiseco being the best,,,, not everyone agrees on that,,,, but from 2-strokes, 4-strokes, Dirt-track (automotive) and drag-strip (automotive), I have never had a piston failure with Wiseco (that did not envolve a dropped valve or high RPM lean-out). One time I even had a drag-strip motor drop a valve and the piston was still intact, but the cylinder wall split. If I'm spending my money, I'll buy Wiseco. Good Luck with the re-build!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fre530d Posted September 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 New to Banshee, but been building 2-smokes for years. I'm lazy. Save Just a few bucks for new rubbers,,or,, spend a few bucks more for cheap insurance that I don't have to tear it apart again any-time soon. I vote for the cheap insurance. If you go with Wiseco,,, make sure it is bored for a forged piston. (Forged expand more than cast and so need more clearance or a slightly larger bore.) Most of the better machine shops will want the piston in advance so they can make sure the cylinder is bored for the correct clearance. (You may check their prices if they order the piston also. The local guy I deal with will order the piston/s for me and then charges me about what I would have to pay for the piston/s but without the shipping. Shipping isn't much, but every penny counts. O.K. so I'm a tight-wad and I'm lazy.) As far as Wiseco being the best,,,, not everyone agrees on that,,,, but from 2-strokes, 4-strokes, Dirt-track (automotive) and drag-strip (automotive), I have never had a piston failure with Wiseco (that did not envolve a dropped valve or high RPM lean-out). One time I even had a drag-strip motor drop a valve and the piston was still intact, but the cylinder wall split. If I'm spending my money, I'll buy Wiseco. Good Luck with the re-build!! Thx Man :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chase@miamiatv.com Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 i seen a brand new engine test in at 65psi and starts on first kick too , problem was ......... THE GAUGE..... If your shee is starting on 1 kick , i would defintly try other gauges..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fre530d Posted September 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2006 Hey Pulled engine appart today, looks real new inside. Can't understand low compression. Gonna buy some prox pistons and rings tomorrow and new needle bearings and gaskets. Then putting up my 20cc noss coolhead. So compression must be about 169Psi. And synchronize my carbs with the tool from jeff. I hope my shee is gonna be a bit faster with that comp? I'm drivin' 98 ocatane here in Belgium , I hope that's enough? When i buy some K&N pod's, can I just adjust my needle for more fuel or must I go up in the mains? Wfg Fred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moneybags Posted September 30, 2006 Report Share Posted September 30, 2006 I have a 2006 shee with less then 7 hours on it. I tested it with my chepo tester I think it is made by usg atleast that is what it said inside of the gage. It is a screw in tester that showed I had 132in the left and 134 in the right I am at sea leval. that is when it is cold and with the throttle wide open. My bike dose not like to starte at first but once it is wormed up it fires with no problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fre530d Posted October 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2006 So guys, Replaced top end yesterday, put 64.25mm pistons and rings in it, cilinders were honed to fit. Put the Noss Head 20cc on, man that was real difficult to get those o-rings on the right place but I think I did it right. Haven't measured compression yet but I will do today. But it feels a lot more now when I press the kickstart easily. Is it possible to measure compression without carbs and pipes on and cooling system off? I don't think that makes any difference does it? I am gonna try to synchronise my carbs with the tool from jeff. Anybody tried this already? I hope I can run 98octane fuel with this engine? WFG Fred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 1, 2006 Report Share Posted October 1, 2006 Yes, you can test compression without that stuff on. However....it's gotta be on to use the syncrometer on your carbs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fre530d Posted October 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2006 (edited) Hey guys, So started it up today, after I let it idle for a time till it warmed up, I retightened the bolts from the head to 20ftlbs as told and you know what happened? I striped the thread in 2 muters from the noss coolhead. After that i did 2 warmups again and went riding. Have anyone had the same isue with those muters from Noss? I had to put 2 original bolts on, luckily my threads from my cyl weren't stripped But the driving experience with that coolhead w 20cc domes is pretty great. I thought it made a bigger diff but what the heck, it made some diff. You can feel it pulling stronger from the bottom but the top is still bad. I really need some new pipes :biggrin: And by the way tested compression today with my crappy tester, know what??? It tested 90Psi again with the threads and 120Psi with the nossle, it has to be 159PSI. I am gonna return it tomorow and order me one from a good brand. Man that thing sucks , I can really feel the compression is really high now. WFG Fred Edited October 2, 2006 by Fre530d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 2, 2006 Report Share Posted October 2, 2006 When you bought new pistons....what did you do to your cylinders? Did you get them measured, bored, honed, etc? Or did you just throw them in there? Also...do you have stock pipes? I hope not, a NOSS head is great, but a waste of money if you still have your stock pipes.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fre530d Posted October 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2006 (edited) When you bought new pistons....what did you do to your cylinders? Did you get them measured, bored, honed, etc? Or did you just throw them in there? Also...do you have stock pipes? I hope not, a NOSS head is great, but a waste of money if you still have your stock pipes.... I let my cilinders hone to 64.25mm , then put pistons in, new from prox. Yes I have those crappy stock pipes and some FMF silencers. I even got the lid on ans std airfilter. When I get my pipes in a couple of weeks then the hell maybe breakes loose? Got another question, when U measure low compression, can the cause also be a leaking crankcase, crankshaft gasket ? I am gonna buy trinity's or shearers? I drive mainly roads. ThX Fred Edited October 2, 2006 by Fre530d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 2, 2006 Report Share Posted October 2, 2006 Get Trinity or T5s. With your bone stock motor....Shearers would be a waste. Cranking compression does not measure the rest of the case sealing...you'd still need to do a leakdown to test crank seals, intake, etc. A compression tester has a check valve...which...doesn't let air "escape" once it's been pushed to the gauge. A leakdown tester can't be used with a check valve....for an air leak can sometimes be slow enough to take a little time (minute or two) to leak out.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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