dajogejr Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 Never used the thread repair, never heard of timecerts... I'd try the helicoil then tap route.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black sunshine Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 Ive had luck using red(high strength) or blue(medium) Loctite. Never used it on those particular bolts, but if holes are clean and youre able to achieve proper tightening torque it should work. The Heli-coil would be ideal, but the loctite is worth a try; thats just my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BANSHEEMANIAC Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 i would go with a heli-coil. locktight is made to hold a bolt from backing out, so in other words, you put it on a bolt and put it into a stripped hole, i will not make it tighen to hold anything. hope this make sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 Regardless of wether the loctite will or will not work, it'd be a temporary work around... Once he takes it apart again, which...we all know will happen, he's right back to where he is now. Or...he can try and fix it right the first time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkunkWerX Posted September 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 I think I am going to try to the permatex thread repair compound, first. And yes, I view it as a temporary fix. It will give me time to locate proper helicoils and/or TimeSerts. My research last night shows some promise for the permatex product, worth a try. Timeserts: http://www.threadkits.com/timeserts/timeserts.html I am eager to see if this is the only leak, it's certainly the largest, but, when you fix the large one, smaller ones can show. I'll give a review of the permatex product. I use loctite thread compounds on pressure fittings, up to 4500psi, but those are good solid threads, even the Red loctite won't act as a fastening surface. The permatex product adds "amterial" to the threads, which, in this case, is what is needed. - - - - - - Also, for plugging and sealing to perform the leak down test, I found some easily obtainable stuff. Ace Hardware had 1 1/4" plugs, in the plumbing department. They are designed to fit into an 1 1/4" pvc Fitting, which, has an ID of 1.5" , same as Banshee exhaust spigot ID. This is the kind that has a wingnut you turn to expand the rubber. Make sure you clean the carbon and soot out of the ID first for a good seal. OR, the OD of the exhaust spigot is 1 3/4" , so, a 1 3/4" diameter black rubber test cap, with hose clamp would work. For the intake boot, a 3/4" PVC end cap and the stock clamp is all that is needed. The exhaust, by far, is the most difficult to plug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toomey Banshee Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 Fix it for now, then down the road get a new Cylinder or cylinders off of flea bay, that way you'll tell the old lady you HAVE to get em ported when you get em bored. :baseball_whistle: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkunkWerX Posted September 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2006 First: THANKS TO EVERYONE. Second: It's done!! Put back together, and this thing SCREAMS now. I don't mean like "whoo hooo fun time" , I mean, like, "Death grip, neck snapping, Rocket ship to Jupiter!!" Good advice from Banshee HQ, I am a sworn believer in the Leak Down Test Fixed the Big leak, but found some minor ones too, took care of them, as well. Dajo, you da man. Product review: Permatex Stripped Thread Repair #81668 This stuff works. They don't advise for critical apps, like brakes, steering or internal motor. I would say the more threads you have left, the better it will work. Mine were still there, just wouldn't allow full tightening. Within 1 hour it was done, that includes full strength curing. Got it from Ace Hardware, but try anywhere that sells Permatex products. Before: 25 pilots, 250 mains and throw in an Air Leak or two. Right now we're running 32.5 pilots, 300 Mains. Pulled a plug, took a peak (no chop yet) and we are in the Ballpark. It likes the Airscrew 2.5 turns out. Not surprising with that 32.5 "piece of pipe" for a Pilot jet. Got the jets from Jet's R Us, they shipped very quick, and no problems. Thanks to all!! Good to go! :beer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted September 29, 2006 Report Share Posted September 29, 2006 I think you're going to find you don't need that big of pilot... 27.5 should be fine with your mods... However, it's a great feeling to get it sorted, isn't it? Glad it all worked out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkunkWerX Posted September 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2006 We'll do the idle test , sort out the Low end/Pilot. Then we'll move to the Main jet. Better to start on the rich end and work down. The AirScrews at 2.5 turns Out already says something. Good feeling to sort it out is RIGHT! Now I can devote some time (and money) to my virtually stock 660RaptorLE. Looking at the Yoshimura exhaust, K&N, intake and jetting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted September 29, 2006 Report Share Posted September 29, 2006 Yep...2.5 is telling you it needs to be a smaller pilot. Just make sure you warm it up before changing settings. Also...when you ajust the air screw, make sure you give it a good 20 seconds before you take off for a ride, so the adjustment can take effect!! You're on the right track now..good luck!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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