dajogejr Posted September 26, 2006 Report Share Posted September 26, 2006 Since you didn't mention your head being shaved or aftermarket domes...your compression is fine. I definately wouldn't say 60% used up... 125ish is brand new...you are not far off that at all. Which...if great!! Go to Home Depot or Lowes. They make rubber plugs that work fine. Look in the furniture section, they have the boots that go over the leg of a chair to keep from marking up your flooring...I think I paid 2 or 3 bucks for a pack of two. measure your exhaust ID on the jugs...and get the right plugs. Stuff 'em in there good. 5 to 10% variance is acceptable...so, 2%, heck...you're mint! I would say 100PSI is top end time.... If there were holes in the piston, you'd have little or NO compression, depending on if the hole was on top, or it broke off near the ring lands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkunkWerX Posted September 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2006 (edited) Dajo, thanks man!! nope, case and head looks stock & untampered, doesn't look like anything is shaved, or that the head has been touched. Bolts don't have any sign of a wrench or socket being on them, looked for that, in case it had previously blown a head gasket or had someone monkeying inside. The rubber furniture thingies sound like they will work great! i was thinking more of those rubber expandable plumbing plugs, but I've seen them 4" and 3", but not smaller versions. Like a dummy (I'm getting good at it) I didn't measure the exhaust spigot's diameter. I found on www, that the Exh. port on a blaster is 35mm diameter, which is roughly 1.5" I might make a swag and hope the Banshee is somewhere in that same neighborhood? (Same carb input=same exh ouput?) yeah, sounds like a good theory, but we shall see if it's just a convenient coincidence...or not. I can always buy a couple of sizes and return them, or swing by the house at lunch and try to get a good measurement. I do wood work and metal work, so i was thinking of making "squish" plates, so I can stuff it in, then tighten a bolt and wingnut to make the rubber expand inside the inner diameter. This is really keeping me off the streets and out of trouble. Edited September 26, 2006 by SkunkWerX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted September 26, 2006 Report Share Posted September 26, 2006 I just threw a couple of them out... the bad part is...once it's up and running, you'll just be back on the streets.... lol The plugs are tapered. I think the exhaust hole is around 1 3/4 or so...but not 100% sure. Maybe a member that has an engine sitting on the bench can confirm.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkunkWerX Posted September 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2006 (edited) The plugs are tapered. I think the exhaust hole is around 1 3/4 or so...but not 100% sure. Maybe a member that has an engine sitting on the bench can confirm.... yeah, I found them, got a pack of 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" (32mm and 38mm) They did have 1 3/4" but I didn't grab them, They looked pretty big, can always make a run this eve and do an exchange if I need them. I'll take good measurements and post them, along with the HomeDepot parts number, so others may benefit. Edited September 26, 2006 by SkunkWerX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted September 27, 2006 Report Share Posted September 27, 2006 As for your idle issue: you can adjust it on the throttle cable at the thumb throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted September 27, 2006 Report Share Posted September 27, 2006 As for your idle issue: you can adjust it on the throttle cable at the thumb throttle. He's got the TORS removal kit...so, the brass tapped screws should be used to adjust the idle. At the thumb throttle is where slack is left, and the tops of the carbs are used to sync.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkunkWerX Posted September 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2006 (edited) TEST IS IN!! 6 psi for 6 mins!! passed!! It was a booger getting the exhaust ports sealed up, they kept giving me small pinhole leaks, but I finally got them sealed and was able to test. After 12 mins it was at about 5 3/4 psi. Used a good 15 psi gauge, I have tons of gauges, so that wasn't a problem. tapped it several times to make sure it wasn't sticking. For anyone wanting to do this, if you can get a hold of a needle valve, it makes pressurizing slowly, very ,very easy. I dialed my main regulator down to about 15 psi, then metered the air into system with the needle valve. nice. Man, I am glad that is over. OK, that was the motor with Exhaust and intake blocked off. Used flat heavy gauge sheet metal and gaskets to make blocking plates for the intake. Tomorrow will re-install reeds, spacers, gaskets and boots, and re-test, now knowing the motor is tight. wow, sigh of relief time. No, make that Miller time!! (actually I prefer IPAs) Hitting the shower, skipped dinner, grab a quick bite, and plan tomorrow's attack after work. Thanks Dajo, for all the moral support and ideas. I can grab any photos of the pressure set-up if anyone is interested. I'll be tearing the pressure system down tommorrow night after testing the intake parts. later Edited September 27, 2006 by SkunkWerX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted September 27, 2006 Report Share Posted September 27, 2006 test sounds good...however, you need to do it with the reed cages and the intakes on, only the carbs removed. Believe it or not....the intake is probaby the number one source of leaks, follwed by a crank seal. But, I'd say the rest of the motor is ready to go!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkunkWerX Posted September 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2006 Oh yes, I know the intak gaskets and joints are usually the culprits, but, since I have so much time invested, I wanted to go 1 section at a time. Now, I can bolt up the intake tract , plug it, (minus carbs, of course) , pressurize, and soap test it. It will be a breeze compared to the prepping for the full blown leak down test. The boots are newish , and appear to be proprietary design to the Rad valves. That doesn't mean they can't have a leaky joint, just commenting on the parts I'm dealing with. What are your thoughts on silicon sealers as gasket/joint seals? I ask this in advance. Suppose someone finds a leak, has a godo clean gasket and just can't get a good seal? Use a gasket sealing compound? What kind? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted September 27, 2006 Report Share Posted September 27, 2006 My advice is to use the proper gaskets new, each time. I'd also use a thin skim coat of high temp Orange/Red RTV on both sides as well...just enough to help fill in any imperfections. Unless the surfaces are way jacked up, you're pretty much gaurenteed a good seal, gasket to intake wise.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkunkWerX Posted September 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2006 Thanks, I looked over all surfaces, intake, reeds, spacers, and boots. I'd give them all an overall 98% for clean & smooth. Not even a scratch. I've seen far, far worse still hold a good seal. More to report later tonite once I do: "Leak Test II" , "Return of the Bubble Monster". (yes, this problem is starting to affect my sanity). :shoothead: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted September 27, 2006 Report Share Posted September 27, 2006 I looked over all surfaces, intake, reeds, spacers, and boots. I'd give them all an overall 98% for clean & smooth. Not even a scratch. I've seen far, far worse still hold a good seal. (yes, this problem is starting to affect my sanity). :shoothead: You haven't even scratched the surface of what I've been through with my cub motor this year.... Try spending 3 to 4 G's on a motor, swingarm, clutch, etc., and not being able to ride from Thursday to Sunday on a dune trip with about 10 other guys.... Ended up trying every jet and needle known to man....ended up being a base gasket leak, head surface sucking water (yep, brand new cub cylinder) and a shattered flywheel magnets... Not fun.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkunkWerX Posted September 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 FOUND IT!!! found it -found it -found it!! Partially stripped M6 intake bolt. The kind of stripping that feels like it's tightening, but, doesn't quite tighten down all the way. This makes sense. Why you ask? because Hercules, aka: KingKong, aka: The incredible Hulk aka: Previous Owner tightened the livvin piss out of everything he touched!! I have drilled and easy outted two other bolts so far, one on the Toomey clamps. he also had float bowl leaks, and isntead of fixing the float valve, he kept tightening the bottom bleed screw so much I can't loosen them. OK, so, enough about people who shouldn't be allowed to over tighten bolts...... They are M6 threads, I measured depth, and had some more depth left in the hole, so I hoofed it up to Ace Hardware, they have a decent amount of metrics. Picked up another M6, longer, hoping it would grab some good thread down in the bottom, but, no luck. I can almost torque the leak out, but not quite. I tried loosening all and tightening that one first, but, just not quite enough "meat" left on it. So here is the question? Looks like 1/4-28 is next size up. I have taps. -Do I go ahead and tap it for 1/4-28? -Or, has anyone had any luck with compounds and retapping for same size? (JB Weld?) -Or, Helicoil type of repair ....to maintain same size?? Send Cards, Letters, even Flowers?? [sigh] I think this is the problem, definitely bleeds more than 1psi per minute. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 I'd go with helicoil, if you can find that small a metric size.... Makes perfect sense.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkunkWerX Posted September 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 Anyone have any luck with permatex thread repair "Forma-thread"? http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.j...295869&cid= Also my mechanic buddy just told me about Timeserts, but, for a single repair they are pricey. And not readily available everywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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