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New to Banshee Needs a new top end


Jfranke

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I just got an '01 Banshee, runs good just has little compression and has never been rebuilt. I am going to start the rebuild here soon (doin it myself). I think while I'm at it I'm going to take the whole engine apart and rebuild the whole thing just cause I love engines and she will be out of use this whole winter anyway. I just got back from Winchester Bay in Oregon (Amazing Dunes!!!) had a ton of fun but can't wait to unlock its full potential next year after the rebuild.

 

I'm thinking I'm going to need your guys help some, so I though I would say hello!

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What do you plan on doing to it?

 

Since you said that your going to take the engine completly out and tear it down, you should have the crank trued and welded. Sooner or later your mods will put you in the area of "Man I should have had that crank welded". It is just cheap insurance.

 

If you were planing on replacing the crank i would do a hot rods 4mm stroker crank. There stock crank and 4mm stroker crank are about the same price so why not? Make sure you have some body reweld that to. I here that the hot rods welds arnt the best.

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Ya know what...good for you...

I applaud you for getting a bike and jumping head first into it without intimidation...

First thing you need to buy without a doubt is a Clymers manual... our very own "bible"...

 

Aside from the step by step illustrations, it has tourqe specs, fluid capacities...etc....

 

I agree 100% with j....get the stock crank welded and get a "seal kit" from Vitos... I think they're about 30 bucks, comes with crank seals, shifter seals, and the other little seals you'll need.

 

However....next is budget. If you go with a stroker crank as said above, now you're going from a 300 to 500 dollar freshen up on the motor....to a 1000 dollar or better motor once you figure in porting to accomodate the different stroke...or a spacer plate. Different pistons (a few more bucks) and a cut head so the pistons don't smack it....

 

What else is done to the bike, pipes, etc.? You might be better off just welding the crank, resealing the motor, and freshening up the top end....unless your budget and time allows for "more"....

 

Welcome to the club...you'll soon be in the garage...then doghouse like the rest of us!!

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What does trued and welded mean and how much does this cost? I do have a Clymer already, I've been reading it alot lately....learned a bunch. Luckily me pa was a mechanic for 25 years so he has EVERYTHING i need to do what i want to it. The only thing I don't have is the means to bore the cylinders (hopefully I won't have to do it)

 

I plan on taking a look at the clutch while I'm at it, what should I look for? I do want to get the seal/gasket kit and change all of those as well. And just a top end. I've done quite a bit of research on the forums here, sounds like wiseco pistons. I am also going to lube up everything (cables, joints, etc.).

 

My 'shee has (from what I know and can remember) T5 pipes, jet kit, dual K&N without the air box and pre-filters, boost bottle, park break block off, Pro Peg Nerf Bars, Chrome lights (I think they're Trail Master?), Three level (rounded) front bumper, I think thats it...

 

Anyway, thanks for the responses, I'm pretty excited to get started. Josh

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They weld the crank journals so they don't separate under high RPMs... Safety and insurance...

Always a good idea!!

 

Once the crank is out....most builders charge 35 to 75 bucks...call around.

 

Since you have the clymer and the tools...just look up clearance specs. You might get away with a re-ring and honing the cylinders...might be time for a fresh bore...The clearances will tell you...

 

Wiseco Pro-Lites are the way to go in my book.

 

magicracing.com has a pretty good price on a whole top end kit, all gaskets, wrist pins, wrist pin bearings....the works.

 

You're in for a treat...but...the faster bug will bite you soon...

 

Good luck!!!

 

:headbang:

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I dont know what to say about welding your own crank. The thing is that the builders will make sure that the crank is in phase. (when the right cylinder side is at bottom dead center, the farthest it will go down, and the LH side is at top dead center.) Some times the banshee crank gets out of phase becase it is just pressed together.

 

The inspection is more or less what your paying for.

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Yeah I think I'll call my local shop tomorrow to see what he charges for true welding. So, just for clarity, the crank has two pieces (one for each side) and the are just pressed together?? If so, why would they build it like that???

 

Oh and I think my lights are Trail Tech.

 

This link might be extremely helpfull for you

Here....

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