Handyman Posted September 17, 2006 Report Share Posted September 17, 2006 If the only mod you have is A k@n with the lid the your jettings fine,check both plugs for spark.Or it could be your CDI? EDIT..............even with those pipes your jetting is close,are the plugs oil fouling? YOu would be correct about the jetting but he has NO lid and His bore is .20 over from stock. When I had filter pods and PC exhaust on a stock motor my main jetting was a 280. Now that he's bored .20 he should go bigger on his jetting. I had to for a 2nd over size bore on my main and pilot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted September 17, 2006 Report Share Posted September 17, 2006 YOu would be correct about the jetting but he has NO lid and His bore is .20 over from stock. When I had filter pods and PC exhaust on a stock motor my main jetting was a 280. Now that he's bored .20 he should go bigger on his jetting. I had to for a 2nd over size bore on my main and pilot. Not that I'm doubting your own bike, but I've never heard of raising your main due to a .020 overbore. Now...if the bike was improperly jetted before the fresh top end, I'd say so...but, if it was jetted correctly before the .020, it should be the same with the .020.... Actually...after just re-reading this post...280 is probably rich, but safe. Airbox with lid and pipes is usally 260 ish...but, 280 and it should still run, and run pretty well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Posted September 17, 2006 Report Share Posted September 17, 2006 Ive been havin trouble with my motor crappin out on one side all summer,and I found it was the crank seals.So my banshee is in peices right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screaming Yellow Zonker Posted September 17, 2006 Report Share Posted September 17, 2006 it sounds like your pilot jet has a restriction. You should have atleast a 27.5 or a 30 with your application. Or to get by for now take your pilot jets out and take a small piece of wire and run it through a few times. I had that problem and I just swaped out pilots. Good luck.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastLANE Posted September 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2006 what do I have to do for a leak down test? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted September 17, 2006 Report Share Posted September 17, 2006 When I had my T5's and K&Ns...I could use a 25 or 27.5 pilot jet and it ran fine. 30's are too big. A leak down kit will come with 4 rubber plugs, 2 for the exhaust, 2 for the intakes. You pressurize the motor with 6PSI for 10 minutes....it should hold, or...drop less than 1PSI per minute. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastLANE Posted September 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2006 When I had my T5's and K&Ns...I could use a 25 or 27.5 pilot jet and it ran fine. 30's are too big. A leak down kit will come with 4 rubber plugs, 2 for the exhaust, 2 for the intakes. You pressurize the motor with 6PSI for 10 minutes....it should hold, or...drop less than 1PSI per minute. Is there a step by step thread for this somewhere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Posted September 17, 2006 Report Share Posted September 17, 2006 Do a search (leakdown tester)and it shows you A couple ways to build one and how to use it,goodluck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.100_over Posted September 18, 2006 Report Share Posted September 18, 2006 Same thing happened to me.....changed my coil... works fine now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastLANE Posted September 18, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2006 Same thing happened to me.....changed my coil... works fine now How can I check my coil? Wouldnt the problem switch sides when I swap plug wires if that was the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastLANE Posted September 18, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2006 I just took another look at the bike and I noticed that on the side that is not firing properly that the exhaust is real loose. It can move around with your hand where it connects to the motor. Could this cause the problem because it definatly doesnt seem sealed. Just a shot in the dark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted September 18, 2006 Report Share Posted September 18, 2006 It just uses a rubber oring and two springs to seal it. You can buy the kit from Magic Racing for 10 bucks, it has springs and rubber or rings for both sides. Don't know if that's going to fix it...but, or 10 bones, I know I'd try that first..... And, yes...if it was the coil, it would follow the wire... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okbeast Posted September 18, 2006 Report Share Posted September 18, 2006 You can get a multimeter and check the coil and all the connections and wires to see if you're losing power somewhere. Or if you have a buddy or know someone w/ a shee put their coil in urs to see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastLANE Posted September 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2006 Did a leakdown test today and all was good. Held 7 lbs for 10 minutes. The one thing that seemed weird though was when I removed the left pipe that I noticed alot of condensation on the exhaust port. Then when i swung the fmf out of the way a nice amount of water poured out of the pipe as it must have been sitting in one of the bends. What the hell is this from? The right side was dry( the side firing properly). Where do i go to trouble shoot from here now that i know its not the crank seal or any other seals for that matter (the engine is air(pressure) tight). Please help! Thanks guys! -B P.s. I made my leakdown tester for only $8.59. Thanks to the search button I figured out everything I needed and it worked like a charm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted September 19, 2006 Report Share Posted September 19, 2006 1. 8.59? can you list the items and pricing involved with them? When I went to build one, I went to HOme Depot, Lowe's, Ace, Aco and a hospital supply store (air pump ball) and it cost me 30 or 40 bucks... I can't buy 4 rubber plugs, a low pressure gauge and an air pump for that cheap.... Sounds dumb....but, you didn't use a gauge with a check ball in it, did you? If so...the test is not valid. To make sure there's no check ball, with the engine pressurized, remove a spark plug. If it fizzles down, the test is good. If it stays at the PSI...you need to remove the check ball... 2. Start checking the stator and coil. A clymers manual will give you ohm (resistance) specs. David Keith, a member here...just sent all his electrical to Ricky Stator. They will test it free...and even put it on a known running good banshee if they pass the bench test... That water came from somewhere.... It can't be condensation because it would be in both pipes... Sucked in from a trail ride, bad coolant seal??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.