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Stroker Crank


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I am going to be getting a new Crank for my shee but I dont know if I should get the 4mm or the 10mm. I trail ride and drag race my shee.

 

well the differance in a 4mm to a 10mm is quite abit....

 

as far as 10mm trial riding good luck... that thing will want you at high rpms at all times to run good.

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I am going to be getting a new Crank for my shee but I dont know if I should get the 4mm or the 10mm. I trail ride and drag race my shee.

 

Trail riding and drag racing are completly diffrent builds. I would find it very hard to find a happy median between the two on one bike.

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The 4mm will be a much cheaper route to go. 10mm cranks are about 2x the cost, and you gotta pay to get your cases trenched. Additionally, if you plan on running your stock cylinders, a 4mm crank will be much more reliable and will develop more HP/$ spent.

I've had 4 different 4mm motors now (2 cubs and 2 stock cylinders) and they are a very snorty motor for a stock frame bike.

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10 mill 980 $

 

i trail ride my 10 mill and honestly , if you arent giving her balls to the wall , shes no fun to ride down low ... UP TOP seriously scares me tho .. I LOVE IT !!!!!! I remember gettin on my first banshee and after 3 days i thought it was slow. This one still amuses me everytime . 4 mill stroker with some nice agressive dune/drag port and some shearers , should be enough to leave some stains

 

but if this is gunna be the drag bike , the bigger the better

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The 4mm will be a much cheaper route to go. 10mm cranks are about 2x the cost, and you gotta pay to get your cases trenched. Additionally, if you plan on running your stock cylinders, a 4mm crank will be much more reliable and will develop more HP/$ spent.

I've had 4 different 4mm motors now (2 cubs and 2 stock cylinders) and they are a very snorty motor for a stock frame bike.

 

 

Do you have to trench the cases with a 4 mm?

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The cases don't need to be trenched for the 4mil. All in all I would go with the 4 mil, mainly because the amount of money you dump into that 10 mil, would be better spent in a 4mil. I hear cubs that meet or beat the 10's but it depends on how you set it up and how well you can ride. tough decision, but the bottom line is how deep are you pocket................. :beer:

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The cases don't need to be trenched for the 4mil. All in all I would go with the 4 mil, mainly because the amount of money you dump into that 10 mil, would be better spent in a 4mil. I hear cubs that meet or beat the 10's but it depends on how you set it up and how well you can ride. tough decision, but the bottom line is how deep are you pocket................. :beer:

 

I thought that 10mm will give more tourque which would be pretty good for trails. I know its balls out on the top but being that the stroke is bigger it would be pretty tourqey. Could someone shed more light on this.

 

The cases don't need to be trenched for the 4mil. All in all I would go with the 4 mil, mainly because the amount of money you dump into that 10 mil, would be better spent in a 4mil. I hear cubs that meet or beat the 10's but it depends on how you set it up and how well you can ride. tough decision, but the bottom line is how deep are you pocket................. :beer:

 

I thought that 10mm will give more tourque which would be pretty good for trails but scary. I know its balls out on the top but being that the stroke is bigger it would be pretty tourqey. Could someone shed more light on this.

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if your doing the bike to drag it , go balls to the wall if you can afford it...... They are just trying to talk you out of buying a bigger stroker.... Sure 4 mill's are cheaper way to get some decent hp , but overall a 10mill SHOULD RIP way harder in a drag race , given the rider knows what hes doing , aswell as the motor is setup correctly.

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if your doing the bike to drag it , go balls to the wall if you can afford it...... They are just trying to talk you out of buying a bigger stroker.... Sure 4 mill's are cheaper way to get some decent hp , but overall a 10mill SHOULD RIP way harder in a drag race , given the rider knows what hes doing , aswell as the motor is setup correctly.

 

Yes, it's a conspiracy to keep people down on HP. Don't buy a big HP motor, because my tiny ego can't take someone out there faster than me.

 

Engine setup is all about compromise. HP vs $ is one. HP vs setup is another. If you are looking at building a 10mm stock cylinder motor, you will spend more than you would've had you just bought a 4mm cub setup. The cub would most likely kill the 10mm stock cylinder in every aspect of performance dollar for dollar.

Another compromise is HP vs chassis setup. Unless you like riding trails with a 8 - 12 inch over swingarm, I doubt you'll be happy with the rideability of your drag racer.

Then there's reliability. The 4mm will have less rod angle than the 10mm which equates to less stress on the crank, rod, pistons, cylinders.

 

A 4mm stock cylinder dune port is probably the best compromise of cost/performance/chassis setup that you could buy. There IS such a thing as too much HP. The people that won't admit it have a case of small penis disease.

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well said ^

 

Ima leave it at this ..... decide what you want to do with your banshee. You have two bikes one for trail and one for " drag " , make it practical and make it work for you . I have a bike for drag , and i have a bike for trail riding..... doesnt mean i wont take the dragger for a spin around in the street or sand. however its not practical to be out there with the setup i have.... That is why i have another bike that will smoke my dragger out on the trail.... all low end power and no top end .

 

Decide what you can afford and what your looking to spend. That will normally depict the setup you are going to run . 4 mill cub or a 10 mill cub , stock cyl ? gas/alky , clutch ... People put stock cills down , but with the proper porting tricks and shit , they sure can RIP NASTY.

 

i seen some people get trumendous motors with stock clutchs' ( 14mm trex ) and a after 2 passes the clutch was gone ..... So just remember you put all this money into going fast , and its only as good as your clutch is... Make sure you find someone who knows what they are doing when it comes down to porting and tuning the bike. I went through a nightmare before giving up the cash for a reputable place to do my work.

 

You are honestly looking at around

 

3500 to get a 10mill stock cyll running

 

and around 2500 to get a 4mill cub running.

 

 

perhaps possibly more.

 

 

just my .02 , anyhow keep us posted on your modifications you decide to go on......

 

.after seeing theyre clients bike's run in the sand drags, The Next people to build my new setup is K & T

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