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high idle, breaks up in high rpm


bertski077

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this banshee is givin me trouble. i have just taken the t.o.r.s off w/o the kit so the the box's are still on the carbs and i never cut the wires going to the throttle, just disconnected it. it has a high idle and when i pull the choke out around 1/2 way, it goes down. another thing is that it always breaks up in the power band, but it alota times it still pulls in the powerband. it smokes a little bit, i should do a compression chekc but it usually starts 1st kick. it wont pull a wheelie on the pavement at ALL. guys gimme some help im diein over here.

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this banshee is givin me trouble. i have just taken the t.o.r.s off w/o the kit so the the box's are still on the carbs and i never cut the wires going to the throttle, just disconnected it. it has a high idle and when i pull the choke out around 1/2 way, it goes down. another thing is that it always breaks up in the power band, but it alota times it still pulls in the powerband. it smokes a little bit, i should do a compression chekc but it usually starts 1st kick. it wont pull a wheelie on the pavement at ALL. guys gimme some help im diein over here.

 

List all mods, and you really need to get that kit and remove those babies...including the idle screw kits too...

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Oh, you can get away with it...and I understand the $$ Thing.

It just makes working on things much easier, that's all.

Do the compression check.

If it turns out ok...start tracing all your wiring down...looking for burnt or frayed wires.

 

Also...make sure your air filter is clean and sealed properly...you didn't say if you had an air box, with or with out lid, pods, etc....

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i got a uni-filter w/ stock airbox and lid. yeah i mean i just had the hole thing stripped down last weekend the wires look fine. i will do the compression check. its just stuck in my head its a air/fuel problem...maybe the reeds? maybe and adjustment, but i have it at the right positions. does the idle screw on the t.o.r.s still work if they are all disconnected?

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Ditch the boost bottle if you still have your stock crossover tube. They're junk.

What do you plugs look like?

I'd bet you're a little rich with 280 mains and the lid still on...

Yep, screws on TORS still work to adjust idle...all you did was remove the electrical/ignition kill aspect of it, the mechanical still works...

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If you have an air leak, that would explain a high idle, rough starts and breaking up in the upper RPMs.

I know money is always an issue...trust me on that. But...it's easier to buy the right tools and diagnose your motor correctly...than it is to blow it up and have to pay for it (and still have to diagnose it...afterwards)...

 

After the compression check, do a leak down check.... PM machwon on this board...he has a very reasonably priced leak down tester that can help you...

 

You might be better off taking it to a shop and paying them for an hour of labor or so to compression test and leak down test it...though...

 

Yeah, you need to have a tad bit of slack in the throttle...it gets taken up partially when turning...or the cable moving...

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i will check the compression when i get a tester from my buddy in a day or so. i am going to get ether and spray around the carb boots and head n cylinder. maybe i have to adjust the air/fuel thats what i think i just dont have time this moment. i dont think it is the throttle cable but i will check. the only thing is that it isnt hard to start it usually fires within 10 kicks if its been sittin for a few days. and 1 kick when its kinda warm. let me know what you think if any of the above info changes ur mind. thanks again

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