Jump to content

+4 Now detonates when hot


DVS1

Recommended Posts

Ok so I have a stock motor 01 with T5s, K&N pods, Dynojet kit, no lid. It was a friends bike since new. I bought it from his wife a little over a year ago cuz he died. I have only ridden it at Glamis and Gordons well and its always been flawless. He used to let me ride it when he was alive 2-3 yrs ago. Jetting is correct for the dunes eventhough I don't know what size. Cant ask cuz he's dead and never needed to check. I recently put in a lightned flywheel, adjustable timing plate set to +4, billet impeller, and a Hinson clutch. I wouldn't normally do it, but I got invited to go ride up in the mountains at about 5000-6000 ft elevation. I didn't have time to rejet and figured it would just be pig rich and maybe at worst, foul out some plugs. The shee really ripped at first, but then when it seemed really wamed up it started bogging and detonating but really only on the left cylinder. I let it cool overnight, and the same thing. (Camping trip). I run straight pump gas VP 101 and Klots Super-techniplate at 40:1. I checked compression back here in Chandler,Az and have 128/125 left/right. I've always run this in the dunes with no issue. Question is why did it shit out after getting hot? It kicks ass for like 5-10 minutes then bogs and detonates. Could the gas just suck? It is pump "race" gas and I have no idea how often it gets cycled out and replenished new. Could the +4 advance cause or compound this? Is compression too low? It is a 5 year old top end. Sorry for the novel but details are important right? Any info would be appreciated...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm pretty sure it was detonating. Sounds like ball bearings in the cylinder. I got off it and limped it back to camp both times it started acting up. Last time I really rode it was at Gordons well for Easter, but it's been started and warmed up, first gear rip in the street then back to the garage probably 3-4 times since then. I completely went through the carbs before the Easter trip to the dunes. These were new plugs before the Easter dune trip. When I got back from Gordons well they were good, ie light chocolate milk. This is after two 15-20 minute rides.

 

plug.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do have a stupid boost bottle, but it started started to crack the stock intake boots last halloween so I replaced them with UPPs before the Easter trip (also when I cleaned carbs) and all was good. Also went over all that shit before I went riding this time too and seemed good. I'm using the seam where the case halves come together at the +4 mark. It's an Ebay adjustable plate, maybe its off and I'm more advanced than I think. ????? I'm going to put it at 0 deg and run it down here again to see, just need time. Work too much... Thanks for insights fellas.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm...

If it's the ricky stator brand off Ebay, you should be dead on! Was the flywheel key perfectly straight when you put it back on? (Just want to make sure you don't have a degree key AND the timing plate)...

 

You do have the correct mark for timing...I would set it back to 0 and see if it gets better...even though the gas you're running should more than handle it ...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, Id have to say everyone else is right. Its not detonation, you simply don't have enough compression /timing for it to happen. That is unless he already had a degree key, and then you put a timing plate on.

 

First thing first though, jet it yourself. That way you know what you have, and you "know" its right. Personally I've never been a fan of the Dynojet kits. Not the highest tolerances, and since they use a different number scheme nobody can help you, or tell you what it is. That and I don't know if they would have a big enough jet for you.

 

Im running T5s with no lid, and 340 mains. Even Toomey recomends to low of jets for most people.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Check this out. I went to go back to 0 deg. and found the coil pick up gapped pretty far from the bump on the flywheel. Also pulled the flywheel again to make sure it was on the key straight. It was and is now too. I'm not using a degree key. Tell me if you think being this far away may have caused some of what I was experiencing. I have it set now to about .025-.030 gap. It's as close as I could get it.

 

pickup.jpg

 

pick is before the fix btw

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check this out. I went to go back to 0 deg. and found the coil pick up gapped pretty far from the bump on the flywheel. Also pulled the flywheel again to make sure it was on the key straight. It was and is now too. I'm not using a degree key. Tell me if you think being this far away may have caused some of what I was experiencing. I have it set now to about .025-.030 gap. It's as close as I could get it.

 

pickup.jpg

 

pick is before the fix btw

 

im not 100% but if you have too much of a gap that would just casue you to lose spark because your not pulling as much of a current of the stator. shouldnt make you detonate... thats a matter of your fuel combusting too soon and if your losing spark that would be the opposite.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...