Twin keihin PJ 34mm Jetting Nightmare

[chriss]

Whats up Guys

 

I can get my baby to run right :baseball_wibble:

 

First of all here some info about the "Beast"

 

-350cc oem Cylinder on second bore

Ported and polish to "Death" ... worked intake ,boost port,oversized transfer,port match.The guy who did it put Lots of hours in it.I dont no much in porting the those cylinder look pretty wicked compare to my Stock 250r cylinder.

- +5 Long rod Crank

-V-force 2 reeds

-paul Tuner High rev pipes

-Rhino head with 20cc domes

-Hinson Drag basket

-Ricky Stator

-no air box uni twin filters

-2 Keihin PJ34mm carb

- 100octane airplane fuel mix 40:1

-Spark plug are dark brown

-Sea level air temp ~70

that about it

 

I only Drag Race with that bike

 

I just added the 2 PJ34mm and as a big time jetting them

 

at sea level

I started at 158main, 58pilot,CEL needle on the 4th clip,1.5 turn out a/s. Idle knob 2.1/2 turn out

Im now down to 150M 55P and still not running Right.

 

First of all he cannot set the Idle knob the same on both side other one carb suck more air then the other.

 

I bog from start something clearing up all the way to the top.Something pulling off your arm sometime not. Overall jetting seems affected when we move the idle Knobs.it also puke oil from the pipe a bit *see picture*

 

Here What I think could be the problem Correct me if im wrong.

 

1-FLoat setting not the same on each carb (one of them Leak from the bowl overflow at WOT)

 

2-Needles are not the good one

 

3-the Idle circuit interfer with the Pilot

 

Any of you guys know a good way to set those 250r Carb on a Banshee ?

 

how do I ajust the Float ?

 

what would be the best needle for that setup?

 

Is there a way to solve that idle circuit problem ? more turn out ? or in ? .close it all the way in and run the bike with no idle ? what the best way to ajust it without a idle and dont create a Lag from the start up.

 

Remember it's a Drag bike

 

here some pictures

 

 

 

 

Pipe puke

[jbooker82]

Try setting your AF screws .5 to .75 tuns out. That is how mine seem to run best. Your mods and jetting sound about right to me.

[djackbanshee]

i think your pilot jet is too rich i ran like a 52 or a 55 and and i had stock 250r needles center clip with 160 mains

a pilot jets being too rich would make the bike hard too ajust at idle and make it bog up.

 

i took them off and put pwk 28

pj 34 are big carbs for stock cylinders

Edited September 7, 2006 by djackbanshee

[dajogejr]

i took them off and put pwk 28

pj 34 are big carbs for stock cylinders

 

 

I disagree.... 34's are too big for a STOCK PORT OEM cylinder. He claims these are ported to death...so, that tells me they breathe good. You can put 39's on a drag port OEM cylinder...and they'll run all day.

 

However....

 

With a larger comes more on top, less bottom end. That's the trade off...and it's on a motor not known for bottom end as is...

 

Forget about what the insulator tips look like....period.

 

You need to do a proper plug chop to dial in your main...

 

http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

[PassionRE]

Not familiar with your porting but try this...it works with PJ's on many engine configurations. DEK needles somewhere in the middle torwards upper clip knotch, 50-55 pilots, air screws 2.5 turns out, and at sea level prolly around 150 mains, maybe a little more if the temps are low. Run the idle adjusters completely in and back out 10 turns, start the bike and adjust idle sync until you have smooth idle, feel for the cold pipe initially, ck it fast after start up and adjust that idle up until temps are even. Then adjust air screws until highest idle is obtained and then richen .25 turns after you have found highest idle. Reset proper idle speed. Ck slide lift and sync cable lift .Take it for a spin, plug chop, fine dial mains, then fine dial needles. If you still have idle problems, richen the pilots one step and start over...good luck...Jim