brad Posted September 2, 2006 Report Share Posted September 2, 2006 i have recently installed a vitos tors removal kit, since installing the banshee will no longer idle at all. it runs and starts fine but no idle at all, let the throttle off and it dies i have adjusted the idle screws as the instructions say to and it still will not idle! getting rather feed up with myt bike i just want it to be reliable and it is far from reliable. any help will be appreciated :baseball_wibble: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yamashee1 Posted September 5, 2006 Report Share Posted September 5, 2006 i have recently installed a vitos tors removal kit, since installing the banshee will no longer idle at all. it runs and starts fine but no idle at all, let the throttle off and it dies i have adjusted the idle screws as the instructions say to and it still will not idle! getting rather feed up with myt bike i just want it to be reliable and it is far from reliable. any help will be appreciated :baseball_wibble: did you get a set of idle screws with your kit?I bought the kit with idle screws from vitos.you have to adjust the cables on top of the carb caps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted September 5, 2006 Report Share Posted September 5, 2006 first...with the idle screws completely removed, remove the airbox (makes it easier to see and work on). Make sure with the idles screws removed both carb slides fully bottom out and seat with no throttle. Then...slowly move the throttle and make sure they move up at the SAME TIME. You use the adjusters on TOP of the carb caps for the syncing of them. Next, place each idle screw in. When it touches the slide, stop. Back it out, turn it in, etc. Once it is JUST at the point of touching, turn that screw in 2.0 full turns, and lock it down. Do the same on both. Check the sync on both of them again.... Put it back together.... Warm it up...and set your air mixture screw next. Start with the air screw out .5 turns from the lightly seated position. Keep turning it out until you get your highest idle, only go .5 turns at a time. After you turn the air screw out, WAIT 20 seconds for the adjustment to take place. When you get your highest idle, then...adjust it up or down with the idle screws.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yamashee1 Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 first...with the idle screws completely removed, remove the airbox (makes it easier to see and work on). Make sure with the idles screws removed both carb slides fully bottom out and seat with no throttle. Then...slowly move the throttle and make sure they move up at the SAME TIME. You use the adjusters on TOP of the carb caps for the syncing of them. Next, place each idle screw in. When it touches the slide, stop. Back it out, turn it in, etc. Once it is JUST at the point of touching, turn that screw in 2.0 full turns, and lock it down. Do the same on both. Check the sync on both of them again.... Put it back together.... Warm it up...and set your air mixture screw next. Start with the air screw out .5 turns from the lightly seated position. Keep turning it out until you get your highest idle, only go .5 turns at a time. After you turn the air screw out, WAIT 20 seconds for the adjustment to take place. When you get your highest idle, then...adjust it up or down with the idle screws.... Dude you give some of the Best answers on here. Id say you know your shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh88 Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 When I installed a Toomey removal kit, I had a similar problem. It would start and run fine, but not idle. Turns out the guy who helped me (not naming names, *cough* Polish *cough*) didn't put on the lock nuts to keep the idle screws in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LiftdT4R Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 Dude you give some of the Best answers on here. Id say you know your shit. Hell yeah, saved my ass with jetting problems a bunch of times. My only question, I know how to adjust my idle, but when you say idle screws, what are you referring to. I've had my TORS removed for quite some time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trex banshee Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 one thing you guys are leaving out that might be his problem is on the two sets of stock carbs I done i hade to sand the carb down, cause from factory they are angled where the screw goes and you must sand it down until it is flat or else the idle screw will not be long enough to reach the slides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 Fine point, TRex...honestly, I did almost write that...but I am very long winded. I just took a fine scothbride pad on my air grinder, and sanded it flat....then kept going for just a bit... There's plenty of material to work with... But...in my post, I did say remove the airbox to see the slide raising... Because from the factory those boss's are angled, you're absolutely right..they have to at least be ground down flat for the lock washer to sit tight... Lifted... When you remove the TORS ..there should be two holed drilled and tapped on the outside of each carb. Since the TORS used to adjust the idle, these new holes are tapped and a long, brass bullet nosed screw threads into this...the bullet nose pushes against the ramp on the bottom of the stock slide. As you screw it in...it pushes the slide up...allowing for idle.... I'll try to find a pic...you have to have these because you need a little bit of slack in the throttle cable. Not much, but enough to where you're not opening the throttle when turning the bars from one side to the other.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trex banshee Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 (edited) yeah i figured you knew that just with all the other directions it just got left out. also when you are telling about the holes that SHOULD be there drilled and tapped, well everyone I have done there IS holes already tapped but those aren't the ones you want to use. You have to tapp and drill the holes your self. Cause if you use the holes that are already tapped then your idle screw will be on the insides of the carbs, and hard to adjust. Just thought i would add that to clear things up, you are probably saying the same thing just going a little too fast for someone who hasn't done it before. Edit: Oh ok i see now where you state on the OUTSIDE of the carb, but they shouldn't already be drilled and tapped. Edited September 6, 2006 by trex banshee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaFish Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 did you unplug the little blck box underneath on the frame, left hand side right under the gas tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trex banshee Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 did you unplug the little blck box underneath on the frame, left hand side right under the gas tank? That won't keep it from idleing, if it is going to do anything it won't eaven let the bike start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 Edit: Oh ok i see now where you state on the OUTSIDE of the carb, but they shouldn't already be drilled and tapped. That part was directed at Lifted...who said he already had the TORS removal on...which means he should've had the idles screws installed...tooo. It's all good!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 Dude you give some of the Best answers on here. Id say you know your shit. nah hes a flatbiller he just types thing in and they happen to work When I installed a Toomey removal kit, I had a similar problem. It would start and run fine, but not idle. Turns out the guy who helped me (not naming names, *cough* Polish *cough*) didn't put on the lock nuts to keep the idle screws in place. OH NO'S !!! and to think im taking my bike to his casa to work on it! be better letting oso do the work :baseball_w00t: :yelrotflmao: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattyMagee Posted September 7, 2006 Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 (edited) i have recently installed a vitos tors removal kit, since installing the banshee will no longer idle at all. it runs and starts fine but no idle at all, let the throttle off and it dies i have adjusted the idle screws as the instructions say to and it still will not idle! getting rather feed up with myt bike i just want it to be reliable and it is far from reliable. any help will be appreciated :baseball_wibble: what sounds like the real problem here is you switched your throttle vavles up. the left and right valve are different and by swapping them you can in effect install a backwords throttle vavle making it difficult for your quad to idle at all Edited September 7, 2006 by MattyMagee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trex banshee Posted September 7, 2006 Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 what sounds like the real problem here is you switched your throttle vavles up. the left and right valve are different and by swapping them you can in effect install a backwords throttle vavle making it difficult for your quad to idle at all I believe you are talking about the slides. Some times you really have to clear this up otherwise some people will get really confused. but yeah they will go in opposit carbs. So look at your slides and you will see that one side of them has a cutout or......how can i say it.........it won't be as long as the front side of the slide, this is the side that will point towards the airfilter. It will allow more air in at idle versus if you had the slides in the wrong carb. if you are still confused maybe someone else will chime in, i just can't think of the right words to explain how it looks. What i really need is a picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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