sLo-DsM Posted September 2, 2006 Report Share Posted September 2, 2006 (edited) Hello i am new here i just got a banshee a few days ago i went out riding and it was fun ran really good no problems. I broght it back to my garage it sat for 3 days i went out to start it and it will not start i repalced the spark plugs and still wont do anything . I got the atv as it is its Board .50 over, cool head, boost bottle, boysen (or sumting like that ) valve reeds, there is not a key on this wasnt when i got it i am very good with cars but have no experiance on atv's and it being 2stoke it a whole new thing to me. ill kick it for 15-20 mins and it will not start it acts like somthing electrical but im not sure. what i should check im not sure where anything is located at on these. it trys to start the headlights come on but it acts as if i am drift starting it with the switch on off just sound like it wants to start but bogs down lights will light up for just a second then nothing after that. Thanks for any help Edited September 2, 2006 by sLo-DsM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted September 2, 2006 Report Share Posted September 2, 2006 try to push start it.... put it in 2nd and get it rolling and jump on and pop the clutch if it starts then your electrical is fine and it more then likely your jetting. what year is the bike? if its old and been sitting a while carbs might be gumed up and need cleaning. if you turn your lights on and kick it the lights try to come on? if so your stator is good. coil might have went out. get a tester if the push start dosent work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ONTHAPIPE Posted September 2, 2006 Report Share Posted September 2, 2006 spray some napa starting fluid directly in the intake. Kick it over and it should start. If that does not work try some R/C car fuel preferably high nitro content. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sLo-DsM Posted September 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2006 (edited) spray some napa starting fluid directly in the intake. Kick it over and it should start. If that does not work try some R/C car fuel preferably high nitro content. its a 99 and it hasnt been sitting long at all i rode it then 3 days later it wont start. i will try starter fluid does it have to be napa ? alo some time(not all the time) when i try to kick it with the clutch in it will move forwards a little bit ? i would also be thankful for help with that Chris Edit* i Forgot to say i did try to drift start it and it did the same thing with the ligt coming on ect.. Edited September 2, 2006 by sLo-DsM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ONTHAPIPE Posted September 2, 2006 Report Share Posted September 2, 2006 i am just kidding ..........starter fluid is a last resort man.......sorry i was being an ass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansheeman1121 Posted September 2, 2006 Report Share Posted September 2, 2006 Take spark plug layin around hook it up with thye wire and kick it see if it has nice blue spark, check your compression a shee with low compression will take milloin kicks to fire up, then well get into carb work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sLo-DsM Posted September 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2006 (edited) Take spark plug layin around hook it up with thye wire and kick it see if it has nice blue spark, check your compression a shee with low compression will take milloin kicks to fire up, then well get into carb work Check it with a regular automotive compression tester? what should the compression be at? if it is low compression what are some of the causes? it isnt very hard to kick so i geuss it could very possibly be compression. thanks for the help Edit* I for got to say i have all recipts for work done it was done 6/29/06 it included the following piston kit 64.50mm top end gasket top end bearings coolhead o-ring kit and new plugs Edited September 2, 2006 by sLo-DsM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjz70 Posted September 2, 2006 Report Share Posted September 2, 2006 Check it with a regular automotive compression tester? what should the compression be at? if it is low compression what are some of the causes? it isnt very hard to kick so i geuss it could very possibly be compression. thanks for the help Edit* I for got to say i have all recipts for work done it was done 6/29/06 it included the following piston kit 64.50mm top end gasket top end bearings coolhead o-ring kit and new plugs Check the Spark, just because you have the lights flahsing off and on does'nt mean the stator is good. there are two sides one for lights & one for your fire to the coil. mean had good power for the lights but wouldn't fire. I would check to see if you got spark if you got that then move to carbs, compression check and i know mine will not fire if the thottle is wide open if i leave it at ideal it fires first kick every time . Do you shut your feul off when your done riding? float could have stuck and it might be flooded majorly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sLo-DsM Posted September 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2006 Check the Spark, just because you have the lights flahsing off and on does'nt mean the stator is good. there are two sides one for lights & one for your fire to the coil. mean had good power for the lights but wouldn't fire. I would check to see if you got spark if you got that then move to carbs, compression check and i know mine will not fire if the thottle is wide open if i leave it at ideal it fires first kick every time . Do you shut your feul off when your done riding? float could have stuck and it might be flooded majorly. i do shut it off whe i can remember i went out there a little bit ago and ther was a larged sized pudel of fuel under the atv looks like it ran out from one of the orage colored lines that go into the carb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansheeman1121 Posted September 2, 2006 Report Share Posted September 2, 2006 (edited) hmmm sell recently had the top end done so thats questionable? Maybe crank seals? Whats your dome size and elevation ill give you an idea what your compression should be at. Try starting it with the choke on when my shee had low low compression it would only start with the choke on even after it was warm, hang in there souunds like lots of work but youll have her runnin strong in no time, btw as far as compression tester mine you hold the throttle wide open and kick 5 times i belive, stock compression is 120 but well have to figure out what size domes ya got before i can give ya an idea where you should be at Gas under the quad is probably from kickin so much you probably flooded her, wide open with choke on is best way to fire a flooded shee Edited September 2, 2006 by Bansheeman1121 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sLo-DsM Posted September 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2006 hmmm sell recently had the top end done so thats questionable? Maybe crank seals? Whats your dome size and elevation ill give you an idea what your compression should be at. Try starting it with the choke on when my shee had low low compression it would only start with the choke on even after it was warm, hang in there souunds like lots of work but youll have her runnin strong in no time, btw as far as compression tester mine you hold the throttle wide open and kick 5 times i belive, stock compression is 120 but well have to figure out what size domes ya got before i can give ya an idea where you should be at Gas under the quad is probably from kickin so much you probably flooded her, wide open with choke on is best way to fire a flooded shee im not sure what the dome size is due to all the work being done prior to me buying it (should have got a stcok one and did work myself) the stuff on the recipts is all i know of being done to the motor. when i rode it it started on about the 3rd kick and after warm it would start on 1st kick with out any throttle or choke just start and idel it ran very good and that was about 4 or 5 days ago now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sLo-DsM Posted September 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2006 (edited) Well i was messing with it a lil bit a ago and i took the rubber from around the e-brake and the brake line was broke and the part of it that you have to move to engage the brake was ZIP TIED to the set postin so i took the wires off the side and there wasnt any connectors inside just loose wires. I turnd the fuel off and kicked it a few times in case it was flooded turn the fuel on kicked it and it tried to start kicked it again and started right up then i let it run for a few mins and it was fine turned it off and started it with no choke and givin it no gas on the 1st kick so i geuss it was sumting in the e-brake switch also there is a little white connector beside the coil that is unhooked and there are two silver boxes under the seat looks like there hooked to the intake sys or carb that have a yellow and a black wire on each of them both (all 4 wires) are cut? and there is also 2 wires zip tied to the frame 2 sets of black and yellow wires hooked into each other (4 wires all togeather 2 black 2 yellow they have one black hooked to one yellow making it into 2 wires ) this is a 99 banshee any help or links for removal of the tors box i think it was called what needs spliced togeather ect also where was the igniton on these at so i can check to make sure they are connected good and not coming lose cuasing this problem. Also with the Tors box removed will it still idel good ? thanks guys for all the help Edited September 3, 2006 by sLo-DsM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjz70 Posted September 3, 2006 Report Share Posted September 3, 2006 Well i was messing with it a lil bit a ago and i took the rubber from around the e-brake and the brake line was broke and the part of it that you have to move to engage the brake was ZIP TIED to the set postin so i took the wires off the side and there wasnt any connectors inside just loose wires. I turnd the fuel off and kicked it a few times in case it was flooded turn the fuel on kicked it and it tried to start kicked it again and started right up then i let it run for a few mins and it was fine turned it off and started it with no choke and givin it no gas on the 1st kick so i geuss it was sumting in the e-brake switch also there is a little white connector beside the coil that is unhooked and there are two silver boxes under the seat looks like there hooked to the intake sys or carb that have a yellow and a black wire on each of them both (all 4 wires) are cut? and there is also 2 wires zip tied to the frame 2 sets of black and yellow wires hooked into each other (4 wires all togeather 2 black 2 yellow they have one black hooked to one yellow making it into 2 wires ) this is a 99 banshee any help or links for removal of the tors box i think it was called what needs spliced togeather ect also where was the igniton on these at so i can check to make sure they are connected good and not coming lose cuasing this problem. Also with the Tors box removed will it still idel good ? thanks guys for all the help Sounds lilke someone done a quick bypass of the T.O.R.S ( Thottle override system). Does your carbs still have the conetors on them? If so you can buy tors elimenator kit, you get new tops for your carbs idea ajuster which have to be drilled and tapped, not real hard to do. If they got the tors wired and unpluged the box is useless put it on ebay someone will buy. you can get on ebay and buy the kit for the full removal of the tors. I think Vitos has them?. I would check your whole wiring harness and make sure the rest is in good shape. If you can soder, and use shrink tubeso its water tight is the best way on wiring mine was a little rough and had to make some repairs myself. Glad to hear its running!! I hate to hear a shee just sitting its just not right. Good luck on the rest of your project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sLo-DsM Posted September 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2006 I was reading one of these posts and it said that if you take the tors systen off the shee wont idel right and will shut off when ideling is this true? also the wires by the kick starter that are spliced togeather are those also for the tors sys if so could i cut them behind the connector where there are only 2wires then after the connector they turn to 4? thanksthanks alot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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