What else should I plan on doing?

[LiftdT4R]

OK, I have basically have FMF pipes and silcers, and a uni filter. I just had my flywheel lightened (by boonman), and put in a ricky stator adjustable timing plate, set to +4. My jetting was perfect before, I might go up 1 size on the main. Anything I should anticipate fixing or buying? I am just trying to build a good all around bike, mostly for trails, not trying to get too crazy. I want the bike to remain reliable, but be quick, with the mods I have done, should I anticipate anything else to make this bike run right, also any other cheap bolt ons I could do? Thanks, as always, much appreciated,

 

EDIT: I should also be fine running 93 pump gas, compression test comes out to 110 or so.

Edited August 23, 2006 by LiftdT4R

[Bansh-eman]

well you could get a set of Boysen RAD valves or a set of VF3's they are bolt on and would make your bike run better.... although new VF3 arent cheap...

 

iv got a used RAD valve with about 3 months on it riding every 2nd or 3rd week end for those 3 months... ill sell it for 70 shipped.

[banshee04le]

Since you found the sweet spot with your jetting, or at least have it running good with the pipes that you have, you could try one jet leaner if you want and it may or may not run better. The lighter flywheel and +4 timing are good mods that you will feel but do not necessarily necessetate (sp? beer) a jetting change. 93 octane is fine where you are at, but to take most advantage of your timing adjustment you should buy a noss or pro-design head with 18 cc domes and run 110 fuel or better. Or I have a stock head off of an 04' that has been shaved .030". It cost me $50 to have it shaved. I'll sell it to ya for 60 shipped. If you are running open spaces get 17 cc domes, unless you run really tight trails because it will be ripping wicked. Run K+N filters if you are not in water and jet up 2 sizes for another good boost.

[LiftdT4R]

Awesome, thanks for the info. I would really like to stay away from race gas though. Next time I do rings, I'm gonna drop on a Noss head, but I was going to stick with stock domes, or maybe one smaller. I'll probably do a K&N after my UNI wears out, will it breathe that much better to have to go up 2 jet sizes? I usually run trails, and see a fair amount of water, so my air box lid is still on. I would bump up to smaller size domes, but race gas is super expensive, and if I go up to NY for 2 or 3 weeks, I know I won't be able to find it up there. Thanks again for the info,

[dajogejr]

110 is getting to be rebuild time soon.... That's what I started at beginning of season last year (I'm less than 1000ft elevation)...

 

I'd bet it doens't start first kick like it should....or it won't soon. However...mine would normally start 4 to 6 kicks cold, run like a raped ape...and 1st kick warm.

 

You'll probably be safe with a 21cc dome and noss head when it's rebuild time, and...you'll have a cooler running bike with that head as well.

 

The only true way to know is get the rebuild done, and check compression!!

 

Lightened flywheel and +4 timing made my old motor much, MUCH more trail friendly w/ my old T5s...I loved it!!

[LiftdT4R]

Awesome, just what I like to heard, thanks for the input. My aim with this bike is to build a nice reliable trail machine. If I drag, it is just playing around, and I ride maybe 3-4 times a year. Mostly Paragon, or powerlines. I'm just looking to have something that is all around fun and reliable, I started out with a Kawie Mojave in '01, and bumper up to the banshee in '03, which I rode for 2 years, and it's getting time to replace the suspension and stuff, so I figure I might as well do it up the way I want it. Thanks for the info, funds and energy permitting I should be done in the spring.

[J-Madd]

Unless you ride through deep water, you could go ahead and take the lid off and re-jet to get a little more hp out of it. I run w/out a lid through a very shallow creek bed and wheelie over mud puddles, etc., and haven't had a problem with the filter getting too wet.