hotrodbanshee Posted August 20, 2006 Report Share Posted August 20, 2006 (edited) It's been getting hard to find neutral on my 03 shee and shifting thru the gears is not as smooth. I just had to replace the oil seal on the main shaft (front sprocket) today. I took the chain off and it is very hard to turn the front sprocket by hand while in neutral(shouldn't it spin freely?). I put it back together and started it in neutral and noticed a lot of tension on the chain, I picked up the rear and the wheels started spinning 10+mph all while in neutral. Pulling the clutch in has little effect on it. Something is not right in the transmision. Anybody have an idea what could be wrong? Would a bent shift fork cause this or something else bent in the trans? I have 2000-3000 miles of pretty hard riding on it. I have one topend rebuild and have never been inside the trans yet? Please help????????????????? Edited August 20, 2006 by hotrodbanshee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted August 20, 2006 Report Share Posted August 20, 2006 Bent shift fork and/or shifter out of adjustment. Get a clymers, it'll tell you how to adjust the shifter. With no chain on and in nuetral....it should spin freely by hand....period. If you start it up with no chain on in nuetral, it's normal for it to free spin a little...but not with a chain on up to 10MPH or so.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBD Posted August 20, 2006 Report Share Posted August 20, 2006 hotrodbanshee, I have seen this problem a few times when doing bottom end work. What some times happens is the 2nd gear wheel (on the output shaft) bushing will work itself out of the gear and drag on the retainer snap ring that holds the gear in position. This will cause a constant drag on the shaft and create a similar situation to what you are experiencing. Sometimes you can give a sharp rap to the transmission shaft on the opposite side of the countershaft sprocket. This is the shaft that the kick start idler gear rides on behind the clutch basket. To do this, you need to remove the clutch cover and clutch basket. Hope this information helps. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotrodbanshee Posted August 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2006 I will try that first before removing the engine from the frame and opening the transmission. hotrodbanshee, I have seen this problem a few times when doing bottom end work. What some times happens is the 2nd gear wheel (on the output shaft) bushing will work itself out of the gear and drag on the retainer snap ring that holds the gear in position. This will cause a constant drag on the shaft and create a similar situation to what you are experiencing. Sometimes you can give a sharp rap to the transmission shaft on the opposite side of the countershaft sprocket. This is the shaft that the kick start idler gear rides on behind the clutch basket. To do this, you need to remove the clutch cover and clutch basket. Hope this information helps. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBD Posted August 20, 2006 Report Share Posted August 20, 2006 hotrodbanshee, Just another note, the tapping on the shaft idea has only worked one out of three times for me. The other two times, the cases had to be split and the second gear wheel had to be removed from the output shaft. Then it was an easy fix by pressing the bushing back in flush with the face of the gear. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.