wildbansheeboy Posted August 14, 2006 Report Share Posted August 14, 2006 Here is my problem . WHEN OUT RIDING MT BANSHEE i DROP ONE CYLINDER ABOUT 1/3 THROTTLE AND IN I BACK OFF AND ACCELRATE SLOW IT STILL IS BOGGING OUT .IF I AM SITTING AND CRACK IT WIDE OPEN IT FALLS ON IT FACE MISSING AND SPITTING.I HAVE PLAYED WITH THE JETTING,SWITCHED CARBS FROM RIGHT TO LEFT STILL THE SAME,CHANGED CDI,PLAYED WITH TIMING,CHECKED WIRING HARNESS 4 CRACKS,SWITCHED COIL,AND ANY THING ELSE I CAN THINK OF IF ANY OF U GUYS HAVE ANY IDEAS LET ME KNOW. SHEE IS FAR FROM STOCK IT IS THE ONE LISTED ONE THE BOTTOM OF THE POST :shoothead: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r/atvshee Posted August 14, 2006 Report Share Posted August 14, 2006 could be an air leak :shrug: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildbansheeboy Posted August 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2006 could be an air leak :shrug: I HAVE NEW BOOTS AND ALSO JUST PUT IN NEW REEDS IN AND i HAVE CHECKED 4 LEAKS AND IT ALL LOOKS GOOD. ANY OTHER IDEAS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohiobanshee Posted August 14, 2006 Report Share Posted August 14, 2006 Does the dead cyl stay on the same side when you switch carbs and plug wires? Is this a new build or did it run right before? The popping and bogging sounds like a air leek or wrong jetting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildbansheeboy Posted August 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2006 Does the dead cyl stay on the same side when you switch carbs and plug wires? Is this a new build or did it run right before? The popping and bogging sounds like a air leek or wrong jetting. yes,its the same side,yes it is a fresh top end but it was doing it be4 the new pistons.It started to run like shit and it had been a while on the pistons so i took her apart and one cylinder was in need of new bore so I got the cylinders bored and a set of new pro lites and put her back to the way see was and still having the same problems.I have played with the jets from 172,175,178,& 185 .May be I am to rich but at one time before the rebuild she ran great with 175 with fmf fattys & when I switched to cpi in frames i went up 2 178 and in cooler weather even bigger.I still have the cpi's on her.I have switched and check the plugs all the time the side that drops is wet if I pull it out right after running it :shoothead: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted August 14, 2006 Report Share Posted August 14, 2006 You have an air leak...get a leak down tester... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWILES Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 Take the plugs out and put one back in the cap at a time. HOLD THE PLUG CAP not the plug and kick the bike over and see if you have spark on both plugs. If you do, push the throttle in until you are where you are feeling the cylinder go down and do the same thing. Do that at a few different throttle positions. If at any time you have no spark check ALL of the safety wires that kill the spark " in case of problems ". You can take an ' in line splicer ' and put it on ever safey wire on the bike. There is one that goes to the throttle, 2 that went to the carbs, one to the clutch, and I think there is one in the transmission. I bridged all the ones on mine after having a problem with the one in the throttle. That might be a start. An air leak won't shut the spark down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 Say WHAT??? This guy has 35PWK carbs...his TORS are long gone. Read his sig. That would be the only thing that would cause bad spark at different throttle position... He's replaced everything in the ignition but the stator...and that alone wouldn't cause a misfire in only one of the cylinders, it would effect both. You have an airleak...period. Get the tester and save yourself money and trouble.... He never said he was losing spark, he said a cylinder was cutting out. If there is a leak in that cylinder, it will act up with a little bit of throttle, it won't burn the mixture properly, and the plug will be wet. Is it the left side cylinder, by any chance? If so, remove the flywheel cover and start the bike up. Warm it up...get some carb cleaner and spray the shit out of the boots, around the head, around the base of the cylinders, and behind the flywheel. I bet once you hit one of those areas, while idling, it starts to die down and will either stall or almost stall... Or you could just get a leak down tester, remove the carbs and pipes, and see for yourself. Either way..it's an air leak. that...or you have a rodent or something plugging up your exhaust pipe. You went to CPIs from FMFs...probably a 2 or 3 jump size in mains. You've tried different mains and it didn't make a lick of difference, right? I bet it probably starts right up, idles fine...free revs ok in nuetral, but you take it for a ride and it falls on it's face...right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildbansheeboy Posted August 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 Lookin 4 a tester .Will get back to u guys :thumb: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 wild... PM machwon on here. He sells a kit on ebay, but he'll also sell you one outright. You could probably drive all over, use your gas, and piece one together by going to home depot, lowes, etc., or...you could literally spend a couple extra bucks and just get the kit that works. His name is Bob of R&B racing...good guy, he'll hook you up. Daj.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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