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Banshee sputters when warm


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Please bear with me on this post, and read through it all, being I will try to explain what it does and what ive tried to fix it, with no luck.

 

I have a 2003 LE banshee, PV cheetah 472, with 35pwk's, CEL needles, v-force 3 reeds, k&n filters, with a timing of +4 degrees.

 

I just got back from a 2 week vacation at the Idaho dunes, elevation 5000ft. And I couldnt figure out what was wrong with my banshee. The engine had aobut 10-15 hours on it before I took it there. Basically the bansee is scary fast until you ride for about 30-45 mins. Then it will begin to get a stutter, or "flat" spot right before the pipe hits hard. the longer I ride it the worse it will get almost to the point that it won't even rev out onto the pipe. I have almost given up working on it trying to figure it out. So I am turning to you guys. Below is a list of what I have done to it, trying to figure it out.

 

First off I gapped the plugs to 0.020 as directed by Trinity. Original was 0.032. No Change.

I started with 45 pilots, 3rd clip on needle, and 152 mains. Too rich IMO. Spit oil out of pipes.

So I dropped to what trinity suggested a 140, left the clip, dropped pilot to 42. Too lean on top.

I kept the 42 pilot, kept the 3rd clip, went to 148. Ran good, still smoked on bottom end.

then I dropped to a 38 pilot, kept the rest the same. Still smoked on bottom end.

Dropped to a 35 pilot, kept the others the same. Seemed better, good enough to live with.

 

yet remember after doing all of these I would run another 30mins and the mid would do the same thing.

 

So I kept on it:

 

I raised the clip, dropped the needle. too lean on top.

next I left the clip on 2nd, and put 155mains in. Still too lean, and still acted up in 30 mins.

Went to 4th clip, dropped to 148 mains, still that problem.

I cleaned my air filters, for a 2nd time to be safe, no luck.

I even ordered CGL needles, even leaner than the CEL. Tried 3 clip settings, still no luck.

 

 

So as you can see I went every way I could with the jetting with no luck. If you guys have any suggestions on what it may be, I would really appreciate it. I won't get a chance to ride it for a little while, but would like some good information.

 

I am thinking maybe something in the ignition, but don't want to spend the money if I don't have to.

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Unless you're running alky...i'd say run the gap at .028...

 

For a real quick and cheap fix, replace the coil plug caps with some new NGK ones. That might be it....

 

I have two spare used coils I just sent out to a member last week...he should have them today or so.

If I get them back in time, I'd be happy to send you out one or both of them (depending on if keeps one or not) to test your system....

 

Up to you...

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sounds to me like it is loading up cause mine will do the same thing if i don't ride it a little before i run it. I can be at about the 100 ft mark and it will spit and sputter and run like dog piss then go race again and it will run perfect. But i am on alky and i believe i am waaaay too rich.

 

By the way what is your compression at? you might even need to tighten your gap up, if it is really high it could be blowing out the spark when you get it wound up. also do you have your powervalves blocked off, if not take them apart and inspect them they can cause some problems for ya if something aint right.

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Unless you're cranking out 200PSI or more...I call bull.

I ran stock CDI and Stock coil on 180 plus compression, BR8ES gapped at .028 and no issues....

 

For a 2 dollar plug, open the gap to .028 and see if it helps....

 

ok you might be right but that is why i wanted to know is compression. But yeh last year I was at 210 with alky and i had mine gapped at 18 thousandths, but like you said if he is under that there is no reason to have them that tight.

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It's all good... I had to think, I have a dyna and nology coil...but, my cub did run with over 180PSI on stock counterparts....and ran good before I messed it up....

 

:beer:

 

When you say the plugs are tan, that really doesn't mean much. New plugs can take a while to color, etc.

 

What matters is how the base of the insulator looks after a 4-5-6 WOT Run on fresh plugs.

Bascially, I agree....but I'd still change the plug gap unless you're running mucho compression or alky.

 

As long as your compression is ok, and the carbs aren't way off...which they don't seem to be, I think it's either coil, stator or CDI. Normally, I'd rule out the CDI because MOST of the time when they fail, they just stop working, period.

 

Ohm the stator and Coil...see where that gets you...

 

Here's another few long shots...

 

Make sure the screen in the tank isn't clogged (fuel valve)

Make sure the gas cap is venting properly

Make sure the vent tubes on the carbs aren't clogged

Re-Check all grounds, if the ignition isn't getting a proper ground...it could heat up more than normal after a bit of riding and fail.

 

Good luck...

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I have been down this same road, tried jetting, coil etc. and finally decided to go for it and ordered a new stator, flywheel, and cdi from rmstator on ebay for $300 and it solved everything. It actually runs a hell of alot better now than it did with no more problems cutting out and stuff when the motor gets warm.

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It's all good... I had to think, I have a dyna and nology coil...but, my cub did run with over 180PSI on stock counterparts....and ran good before I messed it up....

 

:beer:

 

When you say the plugs are tan, that really doesn't mean much. New plugs can take a while to color, etc.

 

What matters is how the base of the insulator looks after a 4-5-6 WOT Run on fresh plugs.

Bascially, I agree....but I'd still change the plug gap unless you're running mucho compression or alky.

 

As long as your compression is ok, and the carbs aren't way off...which they don't seem to be, I think it's either coil, stator or CDI. Normally, I'd rule out the CDI because MOST of the time when they fail, they just stop working, period.

 

Ohm the stator and Coil...see where that gets you...

 

Here's another few long shots...

 

Make sure the screen in the tank isn't clogged (fuel valve)

Make sure the gas cap is venting properly

Make sure the vent tubes on the carbs aren't clogged

Re-Check all grounds, if the ignition isn't getting a proper ground...it could heat up more than normal after a bit of riding and fail.

 

Good luck...

 

I thought you could just plug the vent tubes? If not, I need to open mine back up

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I'll give the stator and coil a shot.

 

sandgrencivic2k1,

You said you changed the gap on your plugs but did you replace the plugs with new.I ask because the issue you are haveing I went threw with my P.V cheetah also.The hole problem of mine was just the plugs them self.I replace the plugs with new ones and set the gap to 23 thousandths and fixed it.Just a thought for you.And if you can make it out to sand mountain on 8-13-8-16 sun-wed I'll be there tuning my cub and we can throw parts at it off my P.V 'shee at try and solve your problem.

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