ZillaRider02 Posted August 4, 2006 Report Share Posted August 4, 2006 I'm going to put the engine back together for the Banshee today, just wondering if anyone has any tips for assembly on my NOSS head. I tried sending a PM to DLNoss along with a couple of E-Mails, but had no luck. I ordered replacement O-Rings from him a couple of months ago. I got my cylinders back from Jeff at F.A.S.T. 2 weeks ago after some of his porting, new pistons, etc. I'm upgrading from Pyramid reeds to a set of V-Force 3's and switching from PT Hi-Rev's to Toomey T-5's. I'm expecting a noticeable difference!!! I've never put one of the Cool head style head's together and was just wondering about greasing studs, torque specs, etc. Any help is appreciated. Wish me luck!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CadillacBanshee Posted August 4, 2006 Report Share Posted August 4, 2006 I'm going to put the engine back together for the Banshee today, just wondering if anyone has any tips for assembly on my NOSS head. I tried sending a PM to DLNoss along with a couple of E-Mails, but had no luck. I ordered replacement O-Rings from him a couple of months ago. I got my cylinders back from Jeff at F.A.S.T. 2 weeks ago after some of his porting, new pistons, etc. I'm upgrading from Pyramid reeds to a set of V-Force 3's and switching from PT Hi-Rev's to Toomey T-5's. I'm expecting a noticeable difference!!! I've never put one of the Cool head style head's together and was just wondering about greasing studs, torque specs, etc. Any help is appreciated. Wish me luck!! When i put mine on i stuck the o-rings to the head with a little grease and put a tiny amount of hight temp silicon on the studs before i bolted it down. 35 lbs for the torque. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted August 4, 2006 Report Share Posted August 4, 2006 Damn good for you..you'll notice a BIG difference. Maybe Dave is off work or real busy. He's always returned my PMs...so, I'd call the shop. Here's my advice... The two longest studs go in front of the cylinders. I'd use hi temp RTV on the threads of each head stud (some go into the water jackets)...and tighten them down by hand. You do NOT need to torque the studs down. Let them sit in the cylinder for a good hour or two so the RTV can setup, then put the head on. I use high temp RTV on all orings for the NOSS head. It does two things, assures the orings won't fall off when installing the head, and...will seal it up nice should there be any manufacturing imperfections. To be honest, I'd even take the back 90 degree neck off and RTV that Oring as well, then tighten it down. That leaked on me first go around... FAST Cylinders, T5s and a NOSS head? You're gonna have a blast....!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOTD Posted August 4, 2006 Report Share Posted August 4, 2006 When i put mine on i stuck the o-rings to the head with a little grease and put a tiny amount of hight temp silicon on the studs before i bolted it down. 35 lbs for the torque. Not positive but I think 35 lbs is a little much. Instructions say to go to 20 lbs in 4 steps. :shrug: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted August 4, 2006 Report Share Posted August 4, 2006 Yeah, that got posted as I was typing mine. 35 is TOO MUCH. 20 to 22 Ft Lbs is spec. Follow the tightening sequence in your manual. I torque 'em down to 15 in order. Then 20, in order. Then 22. Start it up and heat cycle it two or three times, check the torque again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animalman294 Posted August 4, 2006 Report Share Posted August 4, 2006 You should notice a difference right away in its performance, and how well it responds to your mods............ :beer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlnoss Posted August 4, 2006 Report Share Posted August 4, 2006 I thought I had emailed the instructions to you early in July when I got your PM. Sorry. Here are the instructions I send with the head. Call if you have questions. Stock Stud Banshee Head Installation Thank you for purchasing the Noss Performance Head. You will see a dramatic drop in engine temperatures after installing this head. Performance gains will also be substantial and will vary based on the size domes selected. 1. Remove fuel tank and associated plastic. 2. Drain coolant. Remove plugs in sides of cylinders to be sure coolant is drained low enough so as not to run into cylinders when head is removed. 3. Remove hoses from stock head. 4. Remove nuts from head studs. 5. Remove stock head. 6. Place rags down in cylinders to prevent dirt and hardware from falling down into cylinder. 7. Clean top of cylinders using a razor blade, scotchbrite, or fine sandpaper. 8. Using grease to hold them in place, install the orings into the domes and into the grooves of the head that go against the cylinders. 9. Remove the rags from the cylinders then lay the domes down on cylinders making sure the notches are positioned towards the front of the cylinder. 10. Slide (don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animalman294 Posted August 4, 2006 Report Share Posted August 4, 2006 See there, I knew he would contact ya, dlnoss is a good guy to deal with. Makes an excellent product too............. :beer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZillaRider02 Posted August 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2006 Thanks David for the instructions. I got it the cylinders, head and intakes on. After dinner, we're gonna fire it up!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted August 5, 2006 Report Share Posted August 5, 2006 the bolt pattern for tightening the head on is also numbered on the stock head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZillaRider02 Posted August 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2006 Well, here's the update for today. Everything is together and it started on the second kick. Engine sounds tight, the Toomey's sound great. Went through a couple of heat cycles and decided to go down the street and back. Engine pulls hard (only went to 2 nd gear and half throttle). When I got to the house I noticed the right carb is leaking fuel from the overflow. I'm thinking no big deal, just a simple float adjustment or some trash in the carb from sitting. Here it is 2 hours later and the leak from the bowl overflow is only worse. I used my Yamaha Service Manual for my specs on float height and checked it to or three times. I also used carb cleaner and flushed the entire carb three times. Still, when you turn the gas on, it flows from the bowl overflow, and now from the other two vent hoses. I'm about fed up for the night, will try again tomorrow......Any help or advice is more than welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01 B4C Posted August 7, 2006 Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 (edited) Well, here's the update for today. Everything is together and it started on the second kick. Engine sounds tight, the Toomey's sound great. Went through a couple of heat cycles and decided to go down the street and back. Engine pulls hard (only went to 2 nd gear and half throttle). When I got to the house I noticed the right carb is leaking fuel from the overflow. I'm thinking no big deal, just a simple float adjustment or some trash in the carb from sitting. Here it is 2 hours later and the leak from the bowl overflow is only worse. I used my Yamaha Service Manual for my specs on float height and checked it to or three times. I also used carb cleaner and flushed the entire carb three times. Still, when you turn the gas on, it flows from the bowl overflow, and now from the other two vent hoses. I'm about fed up for the night, will try again tomorrow......Any help or advice is more than welcome. Zilla, sounds like you are going to have one wicked ride there. As for your leaking carbs, sounds like the same problem I ran into a while back. I solved my issue by simply removing the carbs and removed the needle and seat and thoroughly cleaning them. You either acquired a piece of dirt or maybe have dried/crusted fuel in your seat. You could reset the float level until the cows come home, but it will not change a thing. You must remove the carbs and then the seats, spraying the carbs on the bike will not work. Think of it this way, they did not leak before the new combo, so most likely from shaking things up (gas tank/carbs) you picked up some dirt along the way. Good luck, let us know. Edited August 7, 2006 by 01 B4C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chase@miamiatv.com Posted August 7, 2006 Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 here is a tip for anyone who doesnt have one ! BUYYYYYYYYY ONE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
differentstrokes Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 Everyone forgot one of the most important things since it's such a work of art...POLISH IT!!! :beer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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