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what affects needle placement?


tbd

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i see a lot of people running 4th and 5th clip positions. after my re-build jim told me to run mine at the 3rd clip, but it was real laggy before powerband so i tried the 4th clip and made it worse. i was about to give up and i thought i would try the 2nd clip, and that made it perfect. it pulled without bogging, sputtering, or any hesitation like i was having before. now i'm wondering why this is? is my jetting to rich somewhere, or is it just the nature of the beast? TIA

 

mods:

passion hot mx porting

t5s

noss head

v-force reeds

stock carbs (380 mains, 30 pilot, toomey needle 2nd clip, airscrews 1.5 turns)

pro-flo k&n with airbox lid removed

dyna ignition stock setting

altitude 1000ft and air temps 80-90

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I'm going to assume Jim's MX port is nothing like a drag port...so, I agree, the mains are rich too.

Keep in mind the Toomey needles are longer but thinner in diameter than stockers.

You stay on the needle longer, but...it's a richer needle.

 

IMO...

 

I'd drop the pilot to 27.5 as said.

Put the needle in the 3rd clip from the blunt end and try a 350 main...

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There are 5 clips on the needle for a reason; because all motors require a very slight difference in tuning to get the right fuel mixture. you did the right thing by trying a richer clip position, getting unsatisfactory results, so then going leaner and seeing how it runs. This is the typical trial-and-error jetting that we all face. If you put it in the 2nd clip and it behaves perfectly, leave it alone. That's obviously the position your bike likes. If you were to get it into the 1st position and still have trouble, then that would mean you need a needle with a leaner L1/clip. There is NOTHING wrong with running in the second clip as compared to running in the 3rd or 4th. If it's running good, starting good, no bogs or anything, leave it alone and have fun.

 

No offense to anyone, but it's funny, he's saying it's running perfect, no bogging, hesitation or anything and you all are still wanting him to change his jetting around. The main jet is 3/4 throttle to WOT, so if he's having a bog mid-throttle, going into the powerband, the main isn't going to help him out a whole lot. I see what your thinking, lower the fuel throughout with the main, but if it's not bogging on top and revving good and clean, then why lean the main for WOT? That's just me. Of course, no one can say just how good the jetting is without some good dyno runs with an o2 sensor.

 

And something for the threadstarter to visualize with.

calchart.gif

Edited by sredish
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Wow...my bad. I gotta unsubscribe to a few of these jetting threads...

 

I thought I read it ran perfect with the 2nd clip and the choke pulled out...

 

That was another user, another thread...

 

Ok...I guess I gotta unplug for a while and unsubscribe to a few more.

 

Good pointing that out..sred. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. The needle has 5 or 6 clips for adjusment, there is NO one standard answer, only averages...

 

Nice post, Sred...

 

dajo...OUT.

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thanks dajo. And again, I meant no offense to anyone or was point any fingers, i just wanted him to know there is nothing wrong with running in the second clip. A 380 main is somewhat rich, but my bike with stock carbs would've been a 380 or 390. Some port jobs just require a bigger main. I bet with a pair of 30mm carbs, he would see even more power. Now, if you wanted to bring the main size down some, you could get the same EXACT needle, but with a slightly steeper taper and that would let more fuel through the needle from 1/2 to WOT and richen up the whole top end part of the throttle. Witht that, you'd probably run the same clip position and a 350 main, but it would richen the 1/2 to 3/4 more than what you have now, so there could be an issue there. Needles are very very specific pieces. You can get the needles with different tapers, diameters, lengths, L1's (L1 is the length from the 1st clip to the start of the taper), etc. to totally fine tune the bike in with. Think adjusting the clip alone is bad, you should try playing with all those parameters.... it gets confusing and tedious.

 

Above all, if it's running good, starting good, no hesitation or bogs, leave it alone. When winter comes, you might expect to move that clip down a spot or two though.

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No problem Sred. No offense taken at all. I've honestly been bored all day for a while at work now...so I've been picking through a TON of threads... Too many obviously!

 

I agree...you could spend a lifetime figuring out what needle clip, main jet, etc. combo works best...

 

It's all good!!

 

Good to see you round here a bit more!

 

:beer:

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sredish thanx for the info i feel more comfortable about my settings now.

 

dajogejr i tried 350 mains on my "last" top end, it didn't work out too well. it appeared to be running good until i melted the rings. i may be a little rich on the mains, but i'd rather be safe.

 

i guess its true what some of you guys go on about all bikes aren't created equal, and require different settings. even in the same altitudes and temps.

 

i do have one more question will the 33pwks help my bottom end or hurt it? TIA

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