dirtyernie52 Posted August 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2006 trying to get the parts together now for a leakdown test. reeds look great. how do you disconnect the tors wrong? yes idle screw kit is in. right now im just trying to get it running so i do not have air filtter on it. i did try to start it with stock air box, and k&n ans it still did not start. float bowls are on the right carbs. gas is on and is new. timing is set to stock. unless builder forgot something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted August 3, 2006 Report Share Posted August 3, 2006 What about the slides, are they in correctly? PM Machwon on this board. He'll send you a complete leak down kit for about 10 bucks more than you can piece one together yourself. Trust me, you'll spend more time goign to hardware stores and driving around then just buying his kit...it works! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjz70 Posted August 3, 2006 Report Share Posted August 3, 2006 i have been trying for months now, almost ready to bring it to the "stealer" here goes 1995 banshee new crank and top end new seals and gaskets, new cool head,stock bore, no porting, and 22cc domes. when motor was at engine rebuilder i bought the moose carb rebuild kit, removed the tors, and put on a boost bottle, an a twist grip. put motor back in and it will only start when i spray premix in the carbs will run shitty and wont idle, sounds like it is running lean, tried startin fluid around all gaskets and it didnt do a thing, bike will not start a million kicks and nothing. 125lbs compression, 93 octane mixed 32:1. if I just spray some gas in carbs it will fire right up cleaned carbs twice now and it still does same thing. im pulling my hair out right now. if i open carb bowl drain screws fuel flows pretty steady out of both of them. fuel flows good out of petcock on tank. looked like carbs could be out of sinc, i will fix that tonight.pipes feel extremley hot after only reving it for maybe thrty seconds. motor sounds pretty crisp on the top end though. but idle and from 1/4 to 1/2 throttle sound like shit. a little backfiring out of pipes when im getting on it where is my problem? thanks for any help. Backfiring? sounds like timing, did you put the fly wheel snd stator on? if so make sure you got it tight and didn't shesr a key and the pickup has the clearance I think .020? look at your timing marks on the flywheel its a easy check to drr if your in the ball park. dont know if this will help or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyernie52 Posted August 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2006 i spent about 8 bucks on the leak down kit. had most parts in my shop, mainly the psi gauge. well when i pumped it up to 6lbs it dropped like now. so I Grabed some soap and started spraying, found some bubbles on top of reed cages. took apart and everything looked fine. put it back together and it still did the same thing so i yamabonded the intake plate to the reed and that was the trick it sealed right up and now holds 6lbs for 7 min. then i released the pressure. i am putting this back together tonight and i will let you know. as far as the carb slides being in backwards i forgot to check when i took it apart last. but anything is possible. thanks for the help!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyernie52 Posted August 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2006 well back together and it still would not start without a squirt. got it running and it sounded 20 times better only had to richen air screws from 1.5 turns to 1 turn and no more bog idled good. started right up about three times w/out spray. i will try in morning if shee fires then it could be fixed, yahoo!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted August 3, 2006 Report Share Posted August 3, 2006 You'd better hope you never have to take those reeds off again, that yamabond is nasty!! I'd use High Temp RTV next time, Just FYI. Good for you!! Hope it works out and you get the pilot/air screws figured out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyernie52 Posted August 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2006 would still not start this morning. but when i got it running i took it around the yard and it ripped, ran better then it ever has. almost flipped it over backwards. when i shut it off it fired right up, every time on the first kick, so i think i have somethig wrong with the choke circuit. what were the carb bowl numbers? 1-1 = left & 2-2 = right??? thanks for help. how do i bleed coolant system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted August 3, 2006 Report Share Posted August 3, 2006 Someone chime in the help here if I"m 180 deg off... The right carb should have the tube coming up in the bowl, left doesn't, I believe... Try the air screw .5 turns out. When it's warm...you probably won't need choke, especially as warm as it's been. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyernie52 Posted August 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2006 i think it is the choke plunger. i will get a new one and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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