GEEZR Posted July 12, 2006 Report Share Posted July 12, 2006 I'm rebuilding my top end and some tell me to use Locktite on the studs and others tell me it's not really needed. What do ya'll suggest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DIRTMAN350 Posted July 12, 2006 Report Share Posted July 12, 2006 I would say what ever make you feel secure. Iwould use only the blue loctite if it was me. Red and green will require some heat to remove studs if you ever have to remove again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanYE west Posted July 12, 2006 Report Share Posted July 12, 2006 I dont think its really needed but I usually use low strength just to be safe. Just my personal preference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted July 12, 2006 Report Share Posted July 12, 2006 DONT USE IT! :baseball_bat: horrible idea all the way around. use antiseize if anything. they wont come loose if you torque out properly, and then they will also be easy to remove if you have to swap one for some reason. think about it, it way easier to retorque a head stud because it was loose than removing one you broke off cause you wanted a cool head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 14, 2006 Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 DONT USE IT! :baseball_bat: horrible idea all the way around. use antiseize if anything. they wont come loose if you torque out properly, and then they will also be easy to remove if you have to swap one for some reason. think about it, it way easier to retorque a head stud because it was loose than removing one you broke off cause you wanted a cool head. I agree. What I do is put a little hi temp RTV on the bottom of the threads, screw them in hand tight snug...and let them sit for an hour to dry. You don't need to crank them down OR put loctite on them, period. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducman Posted July 14, 2006 Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 You shouldn't use thread lock on the cylinder/head studs. Although I had an issue with the stock studs screwing too far into my cheetah cubs so you couldn't get the nut threaded all the way onto the stud even when torqued down. This is after torqueing in the studs at 5 Ft-lbs. I ended up using the 2 longer studs in front for all of the studs and this took care of the length issue although I had to use washers under the nuts due to ensure the nut didn't torque on the unthreaded middle part of the stud. Later when talking with david Noss he said that some people were using stock studs and red locktite to hold them where they needed to be to get the correct length, but that some shop started making custom studs to get the correct lenght for stock type heads. Anyway, it can be done but I'd only use thread lock on the studs if you had a good reason to, and hope that you never need to replace a stud, especially on threads in alluminum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEEZR Posted July 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 Thanx, everyone for these valuable tips. I can remember removing a broken stud in one of my bro's cyl's and it was a Mo Fo ' to get out even w/ an easy out because of lock-tite issues. I work in a machine shop and intent to make custom studs outa 304 stainless steel. Thanks again folks you all rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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